Good place to pick up a 1997 RMX 250 Manual?


8 replies to this topic
  • Swampus

Posted 25 March 2007 - 07:00 PM

#1

I guess I'm going to need a manual if I want to work on it. Its in pretty good shape from what I see. My dad owns a harley shop, so I have all kinds of tools to work on it myself with bike racks and such. He thinks I should take the bike back to the owner and get my money back as its not running and the little time I spent on it today did not get it to even sputter. But from all the reviews I've read on the RMX's ... I believe this is the bike for me. I bought the bike with my own money. I picked the bike up for 450$. Pretty good condition. I KNOW its most likely going to need a new master brake cylinder for the rear breaks, I press them and nothing at all happens.. havent really looked at it yet.

Low down is.. Motor was rebuilt a couple years ago, has been rode twice since then, clutch went out last ride, he replaced the clutch and it has sat in his basement for about a year or so.. I just hope this was not a bad investment. I want this to work but I dont want to have to pour in an absolute ton of cash to get it back running like it should.

Advice would be great. Thanks for any help. :applause: Nice to find somewhere to talk.

  • beamishnz

Posted 26 March 2007 - 01:52 AM

#2

Hey, your Dad is probably financially right but not very encouraging. There is great satisfaction form getting a non runner going and that is how we learn. We learn nothing from jumping on a new bike .. and that is why so many 'new' bikes are so appallingly maintained.

Back to your RMX .. the RMX is a great relatively bullet proof high performance, forgiving bike. They are a really hi spec enduro bike of which only a couple have ever been made .. the CRF450X is probably the only comparable bike in terms of spec for an enduro bike .. but back to your RMX.

There is a good Suzuki RMX manual ex Suzuki and is often seen cheap on ebay approx $10. That has all the tech info you'll ever need.

Re the rear brake. Don't assume that the rear master cylinder is shot .. could easily be air in the system somewhere .. try vigorous bleeding first. If you're Dad can get over wanting to prick your buble of enthusiasm he may even condesend to give you a hand.

If has had the work done to it that you say it shouldn't be to hard or expensive to get going. Just get the manual and start going through it.

First read the section on the carb. Make sure float level good and all clean and jetted as per the manual. Then see if you have a spark. Then check the piston and bore by peeping in through the outlet and inlet ports with reeds and exhaust removed.

When you think all that looks ok it is time to try and get it started.

Those RMX's are not the easiest to start. Really important to get the kickstarter right at the top of the compression before kicking .. if it isn't at the top it will not start! So if it is quarter way down give it a few mini kicks until it comes up against compression at the top and then choke on, tiny weeny bit of throttle and good solid kick. Once warm - no choke, 1/4 - 1/2 throttle and the same thing.

Good luck mate, you stick with it. This is how you will learn and also how you will get a real good feel when you get it running. Hey just look forward to the old man's expression when you fire it up .. and burn off any Harley in his shop :bonk:

  • Swampus

Posted 26 March 2007 - 04:43 AM

#3

I believe I could get it running as well, my gut tells me its in the electronics. Thanks :bonk: I found a manual on Ebay for 34$.. Is that right?? It says for the 97' model. Not really sure if that is the exact one, there are a few on there. So which should I pick up for it?? I also found a CD one, the description says its for early RMX's though.

Here are a few, Which would be best?
http://cgi.ebay.com/...sspagenameZWDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/...sspagenameZWD1V

http://cgi.ebay.com/...sspagenameZWD1V

http://cgi.ebay.com/...sspagenameZWD1V

Heres the 34$ one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/...sspagenameZWD1V


Thanks for any help.

  • beamishnz

Posted 26 March 2007 - 09:52 AM

#4

http://cgi.ebay.com/...1QQcmdZViewItem is exactly the same as the $34 one but is only $10. Hi tthe BUY NOW button and get it. You many also want to get http://cgi.ebay.com/...1QQcmdZViewItem which is the Clymer manual. Says to '94 but the principles are the same and has many tips about how to do certain jobs without the special tools and also a very good intro section on all the basic principles of motorcylce maintenance.

Definely do get the Suzuki OEM one that is specic to your bike though cos it will have all the correct torque settings etc.

Good luck and make sure you post when you have got it running!

  • Swampus

Posted 26 March 2007 - 10:43 AM

#5

Awsome, I picked that manual up, having it priority shipped to me to try to get started, I got the itch :bonk: I already have the fenders and gas tank off, ready to get to work.


I figure if I'm going to be taking the motor apart I figured I might as well do the RM top end gasket kit that adds the real power. I'll probably replace the piston rings as well, the piston should be brand new but we'll see.

http://www.suzukiofo...GASKET_SETS.htm

RM250 (89-90) - Top End
41-2231

Is that the correct set for my motor?

Thanks for the help. I'm also thinking of going ahead and getting the PWK Air Striker 38mm carb as I've read they work wonders getting the bike to idle and throttle response. Any other mods that would be reccomended for making the bike what it was meant to be while I'm taking it apart and cleaning it all up??

Thanks for all the help, love this place.

  • beamishnz

Posted 27 March 2007 - 11:05 AM

#6

Whoah .. Slow down! Just get the thing running right in stock form first!! If it isn't broken don't fix it! That bike has plenty of power in std form. Get used to that first and then you'll see what if anything u want to change and that way when you make changes you will learn from them and appreciate them. SLOW DOWN!!!

I wouldn't necessarily have the heade off at this stage but do take off the pipe, carb and reeds, then using a strong torch have a look at the bore and sides of the piston. If it all looks good and the piston looks nice and new, then get out and ride it for a good few hours before changing anything. Nice thing about those RMX is that they will go a long time between piston changes. 60hrs is not unreasitic. I change my KX25o every 30hrs.

  • Swampus

Posted 27 March 2007 - 05:24 PM

#7

Hmm Alright I'll do that. Still waiting for my manual though, I ordered it priority mail, so hoping maybe tomorrow or by thursday. The muffler on the exhaust is pretty much straight through lol, no packing. I took the carb off today and cleaned it, it was pretty dirty. The mechanic at dads shop helped me for a good bit with it. We pushed it off and it fired up for a second and then died. Tried again a few more times and it happened once more and backfired. Though this was before I cleaned the carb out. He seemed to think its the sparkplug, so I will pick up a new sparkplug, later on after I put the cleaned carb on my dads other mechanic came out to have a look. we sprayed quick start directly into the carb and tried to kick it off, no use. He took an electric tester to the spark plug and it wasn't firing, so we tried another NGK sparkplug and it was not the exact right one for the bike BUT it would spark for sure as it was brand new. We tried it with that... No spark. So he took the electrical tester to the ignition coil and it did not light up after repeated kicks. So he believes its the ignition coil fried. Luckily I ordered one last friday as the guy I picked the bike up from said it was most likely the ignition coil. So it should be here by the end of the week.

We'll get the ignition coil on and HOPEFULLY get it running to see... *crosses fingers*

As far as the back brakes go, I have none, Hopefully the manual can tell me about the master cylinder, I think its shot, I press the pedal and it flexes as it should, but no brakes.. the back brake assembly is really loose, and I dont see an easy place to tighten it up, but I didn't pay a whole lot of attention as thats not my priority problem at the moment.

BUT I did find a grease fitting which caused joy in a couple hours of frustration. My TTR 225 did not have any of the such. But was bulletproof lol.

Main point is that we got it to fire today even if it was only for about 10 secs. Dad was shocked.. I told him I was keeping the bike anyways regardless, 99% of everything I've read on this bike is awsome. I've always wanted a 2stroke trail bike. Now I have one :naughty:. Even though its not liking me much at the moment.:bonk:

  • beamishnz

Posted 27 March 2007 - 07:26 PM

#8

Keep it up! You'll get there! Once you degug that bike it will be the most reliable 2 stroke performance off roader you could wish for. Strange that ignition fired up at all if it is fried. Get that clean carb on there with a new plug. Take of and clean with WD40 all the elec conections to and from the coil and give it another kick. You might be suprised!

  • Swampus

Posted 27 March 2007 - 07:35 PM

#9

Hmm Thanks, I'll clean all the electrical connections tomorrow with WD40, I have the kill switch completly unplugged to eliminate it, I will be getting a new kill switch for it though once its running this one is messed up. I looked at the headlight and tail light today as well. Wiring for them both is gone So I'll either have to find some wiring for them or order a new headlight, I don't really care for the tail light.

I read somewhere that you can go to a different spark plug with better results for trail riding, should I do this or stay with the stocker?

Any other suggestions to dekink the electrical system and clean things up nicely while waiting for my OEM Service manual to get here??

Thanks for all your help Beam :naughty:

:bonk: Every time I spend time with it I feel its closer to running.


EDIT: Any way the kickstart gear could be affecting this problem at all? It never tried to fire up at all when kickstarting it.




 
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