kickstart ratchet noise
Posted January 19, 2001 - 01:13 PM
i don't suppose it was helped by the fact that the clarke tank has a resess for the kickstart lever built into the side of the tank. i've totally shagged the pivot as well so that with the spring pressure in the pivot part it forces the kickstart shaft to rotate anti-clockwise when against the front face of the resess.
the loowkel shop knew the bits i wanted before i said anything! blinkin heck!
apparently it's bad news to kickstart the bike & let the lever 'flic' up. there's a stop plate that can't cope with it.
we'll see if it's cured on sunday when i give it a good thrap.
Posted January 21, 2001 - 03:27 AM
i couldn't undo the holding screw then but now i've finally got it undone the thing is trying to turn itself to paste inside.
put this among your 'grease it from new' tasks.
Posted January 21, 2001 - 06:34 AM
Let's hope you don't have the same problem as I'm having. I bought my 99 used last year from a dealer. The day I took it home, before I even had my first ride, the kickstart ratchet stopper (I think you called it the stop plate) and guide broke and had to be replaced. I knew it was broke because the kickstart lever wouldn't return to the fully locked and upright position and it made a ratcheting sound when the engine was running. The dealership fixed it at no charge, and they acted like they were doing me a favor.
Fast forward to last Sunday. It was the first weekend after the end of deer season in Central Florida, high temperatures forcast around 70, fair skies, it's gonna be a perfect day. I arrived early and was warming up the bike while I got my gear on. I shut it off to check the oil and then restarted it. First kick didn't feel right, kind of dragged. Second kick, the kickstarter wouldn't return up (oh, crap!) Third kick, it started, but it ratcheted!!! and then stalled. By that time, one of my buddies arrived and we tried to do a field repair. However, the clutch basket wasn't coming off without and impact wrench. Time to pack up the bike and head home.
I took it apart when I got home (impact wrench really helps) and discovered the culprit: the upper bolt that attaches the stopper and ratchet guide had completely pulled the threads out of the crankcase. And I mean "pulled out". There were no threads left at all. The hole was twice as big as the bolt. The bottom bolt had started to strip, too and the housing was cracked. Apparently, the previous owner had "fixed" the problem with a heli-coil. So now, there wasn't any meat left to re-drill and tap, and I'm left holding the bag needing a NEW CRANKCASE. (Or fill-in weld and re-tap the old one--same price either way.) The initial estimate for parts and labor was $1100!--$400 in parts and $700 labor and tax. What pissed me off was that when the dealer "did me a favor" when they "fixed" this last year, not a word was mentioned that the threads were heli-coiled. This is a critical component which is subjected to a lot of stress relative to the strength of the connection. If I would have known it at the time I would have nixed the deal or at least negotiated for a lower selling price to make up for the expected repair cost down the road.
I brought these facts to the attention of the dealership and, after a bit of argument, they decided to cut me a deal. They're covering the parts and giving me a 20% discount on the labor. I pulled the engine out of the frame to save money and delivered it to them yesterday. The new estimate is a little over $400. (I though about doing the work myself, but I figured that they wouldn't cover the parts for free if I did. I might save a couple hundred and it's worth it to let them deal with it for that much money.) A lot better than $1100 but it still sucks.
[This message has been edited by Rich in Orlando (edited 01-21-2001).]
Posted January 21, 2001 - 10:24 PM
sounds to me like you've cut tthe best deal you could & i feel you are right to leave them to do the difficult stuff, their workmanship should be covered i presume.
Posted January 23, 2001 - 12:04 PM