Cam Break-in?


7 replies to this topic
  • torrmentor

Posted March 02, 2007 - 05:07 AM

#1

I have a new '05 YZ 450 waiting for break-in to be performed. I am still preping the bike beforehand(tension spokes, grease linkage, etc.) and was wondering if anyone took the time to put assembley lube or molly paste on the new cam lobes before the break-in ride. I read about this in a book, and know that this is recommended for when you install new high-performance cams, but I didn't want to open a can of worms or get carried away with all of the prep I'm doing if you all felt it wasn't a necessity-
Any help is appreciated!!!
Thanks,
Torr

  • tammie

Posted March 02, 2007 - 06:12 AM

#2

i just installed hotcam exhaust cam and in the assemble instructions it said "use plenty of NON molybdenum based engine assembly lubricant.Molly lubes will damage the clutch by coating the plates and will result in clutch slippage." that was a direct quote out of the instructions, it also recommend a NON synthetic engine oil for break in.

  • Dolce_Grappa

Posted March 02, 2007 - 07:21 AM

#3

Since your bike is new, i wouldn't waste my time.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 02, 2007 - 09:14 AM

#4

Since it's an '05, it's spent a very long time sitting around, and that's the important thing. Assembly lube is used by the factory when they assemble it. And it does contain moly, and it won't affect the clutch in those quantities. The thing with moly is that it's polar, and binds to the metal surfaces so that it doesn't go anywhere until it gets rubbed off (which isn't as easy as it looks). So it's there already. Don't worry about it.

The next thing to know is, how long since it was actually last run? Did you buy it in a crate? Or did the dealer set it up for you?

If it hasn't been run at all in a long time, I would drain and replace the oil, and add at least half the new oil in through the dip stick hole (you'll need a very small funnel) so that the engine will get oil sooner. Start it with the oil pressure check bolt loosened, closing it when oil pressure is seen. Keep the revs just above idle until everything gets settled.

For break in, ride the bike in a fairly normal manner, avoiding lugging the engine, running the revs way up, or using more than 3/4 throttle for the first 30-40 minutes. Let it cool down and then go ride it fairly hard, avoiding lugging and high rpm's only for the next hour. That should about do it for you.

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  • torrmentor

Posted March 02, 2007 - 10:03 AM

#5

Thanks for the help-
Yeah, the bike wasn't crated, and I had them put in a new oil filter & fresh non-syn oil before I took it. I'm trashing the stock chain, and I know I have to oil the air filter (I can't believe they come dry!!).
I think I'm buying into the hard break-in, and I'll be changing the oil VERY often. After break-in I think I'll be running Mobil 1.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 02, 2007 - 10:41 AM

#6

I think I'm buying into the hard break-in, and I'll be changing the oil VERY often. After break-in I think I'll be running Mobil 1.

Hard break in, within limits, is how you get the rings to really seal.

Except for the fact that the first oil change should be made after only 1 or 2 hours, which makes the extra cost even higher, there is no reason not to use a synthetic to break the bike in on. In fact, any argument that they lube better than non-synthetics is actually grounds to use them during break in, since good lubrication during that time is more important than at most any other.

I've used synthetics exclusively, including for break in, for a very long time, with absolutely no trouble with any aspect of an engine breaking in properly. Corvettes and Porsches have been shipped with and specified synthetics for over 15 years, also with no break in problems that relate to oil. It's simply another old wive's tale.

  • Dolce_Grappa

Posted March 02, 2007 - 01:24 PM

#7

Since it's an '05, it's spent a very long time sitting around, and that's the important thing. Assembly lube is used by the factory when they assemble it. And it does contain moly, and it won't affect the clutch in those quantities. The thing with moly is that it's polar, and binds to the metal surfaces so that it doesn't go anywhere until it gets rubbed off (which isn't as easy as it looks). So it's there already. Don't worry about it.

The next thing to know is, how long since it was actually last run? Did you buy it in a crate? Or did the dealer set it up for you?

If it hasn't been run at all in a long time, I would drain and replace the oil, and add at least half the new oil in through the dip stick hole (you'll need a very small funnel) so that the engine will get oil sooner. Start it with the oil pressure check bolt loosened, closing it when oil pressure is seen. Keep the revs just above idle until everything gets settled.

For break in, ride the bike in a fairly normal manner, avoiding lugging the engine, running the revs way up, or using more than 3/4 throttle for the first 30-40 minutes. Let it cool down and then go ride it fairly hard, avoiding lugging and high rpm's only for the next hour. That should about do it for you.


Fantastic point, wasn't even thinking of how long it sat.

  • torrmentor

Posted March 06, 2007 - 10:29 AM

#8

I built the bike up this weekend. Still haven't done the break-in ride (to cold this week!). Here is the list:
-BPR top clamp; rubber mounted w/ Pro Taper bar
-Scotts damper
-Vortex 10 curve ignition
-'Tugger' pull straps front & rear
-Lightspeed frame & fork grds
-Carbon Fiber Works 'black ice' carb & shock heat shields
-Scary Fast accel pump cover
-Zip Ty mag float bolt & air screw
-DID gold chain
-Pro Circuit Clutch perch w/ GYTR unbreakable lever
-Dr. D hot start
-BRP chain guide
-TM designworks case guard

Everything is lubed or loctite-ed & torqued. She's good to go!:applause: :lol:





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