some yzf 450 q's

6 replies to this topic
  • jay yz-f

Posted March 02, 2007 - 12:19 AM


Hi all new to the froums here :applause:

I have a few questions regarding the 07 yzf as i pick mine up sunday,

The handiling issuse with the pushy front end im guessing is cured by sag and moiving the forks up from what i have read untill it suits you?? No need for clamps?

Are there any mods worth doing to the bike before i really ride it ?? i.e my ktm had some carb issues last year,

Also is the sump semi dry ? if so is the wet sump mod worth while as i am hard on clutches?

Oil im guessing semi syn??

Think thats it for know ! Acctually the final thing! A decent shop that will post GYTR parts to England as i really fancy that clutch cover!

Thanks Jason

  • Ranger18

Posted March 02, 2007 - 07:47 AM


Suspension: Set sag between 97-100mm, raise fork tubes in clamps 5mm or to the line. You might want to get a new front tire also. The stock one is good for hard pack, but anything else, and it will be slicker than a wiskey fart.:applause: :cry:

Oil: Semi Synthetic is what I run, although I've heard others run full synthetic.

Carb: rejet. I'm don't know your elevation or temp, but here in California most of us run a 45/48 pilot and a 168/170 main. Then adjust air/fuel screw as needed.

You might want to pick up a new chain, that way you woon't be buying a new chain and sprocket kit in 2 months.

I wouldn't worry about the sump. Is this your first 4 stroke? If so you'll see that you don't need to be so hard on the clutches. Speeking of clutches, the new one's feel light as fethers.
:applause: :lol: :cry:

  • grayracer513

Posted March 02, 2007 - 09:23 AM


Set the sag in the 95mm range, as ranger said, and raise the forks. The new YZF's are very sensitive to small changes in suspension geometry, and you can't understand how much it will change its behavior to do such a small thing until you try it.

Synthetic or not is not and never has been the issue as far as clutches go, only the question of whether the oil is an EC II oil (API Energy Conserving, category II) or not, and even then, the admonition is that it may cause problems, not that it will. I have used full synthetics for years.



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  • jay yz-f

Posted March 02, 2007 - 10:12 AM


hi thanks for the replys,

seems the hadling issue is cureable with out spending out on clamps then thats for sure, nice bit fo cash there for something else

its not my first 4t ive had an 02 03 04 2x 05 and 06 crf450 and a ktm 250f
so i have a good basic understanding now of them,

  • grayracer513

Posted March 02, 2007 - 10:48 AM


Also, on the sump question, it is a true dry sump. It confuses people because the oil reservoir (tank, if you will) is incorporated into the engine cases. It is nevertheless just as separate from the sump as if it were elsewhere on the bike.

  • jay yz-f

Posted March 02, 2007 - 02:02 PM


so it should give no cluth probs then?? just i have 3 mates who have wet sumped there 250fs due to clutches going,

  • grayracer513

Posted March 02, 2007 - 02:09 PM


The style of oiling system has no effect on the clutch, and if anything, a wet sump will oil the clutch more than a dry. The feed side oiling paths are unchanged in the conversion as well. The mod was originated in order to reduce weight and lower the center of gravity. It never had anything to do with the clutch.

Dry sump oiling is technically superior on several levels, too.

If their clutch failures had anything at all to do with oil, it was the fault of oils not conforming to JASO T-903, that part of the JASO MA standard having to do with wet clutch compatibility, most likely as a result of the use of Energy Conserving friction modifiers.

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