Crank Removal

8 replies to this topic
  • Jeremy2Wheel

Posted March 01, 2007 - 05:21 PM


I need advice. I am rebuilding my '87 XR600R. I need to remove the crank for the new rod. The Clymer manual indicates the crank should be removed by a dealer. I know the crank has to be pressed for the new rod but what should I do about removing the crank from the case. I do not want to damage the case but I like to do as much on my own as possible. Also, any advice on replacing bearings (when it is necessary and how to remove). Thanks for your help.:applause:

  • cleonard

Posted March 01, 2007 - 06:23 PM


Much to my surprise, my crank just came out. I wasn't even trying to get it out. I was splitting the cases to replace a badly work transmission gear and it just fell out.

  • randall205

Posted March 05, 2007 - 01:17 PM


I am doing the same thing, in fact I am picking my crank up from the Honda place tonight (they pushed a new rod on for me).

On one of my engines the crank came right out of both halves of the case, on the other engine it stayed in the left case. To get it out I sprayed it with some PB blaster (around the outer perimeter of the main bearing) and let it sit overnight. I then struck the end of the crank repeatedly with a rubber mallet gently until it came out of the case. Be careful when you do this and support the case half with blocks of wood as much as possible. On both cranks the left bearing stayed on. I used a bearing knife (which is available at Harbor freight for $20, but I used the one at work for free) to remove the bearing, which my honda shop said they could not do. They installed the new rod kit I bought and trued it for about $50. I am not sure quite how I will reassemble it, but my plan is as follows: 1. Heat left side main bearing, freeze crank 2. Install left main bearing on crank 3. Heat left case half, freeze crank/bearing combo 4. Install crank/bearing combo into left case half. I figure this will give me the best chances of putting everything back together without getting the crank too far out of true (i.e. require the least amount of hammering and beers to assemble it).

Good luck. And if anybody has any other methods of installing the crank I'd love to hear it. Thanks,

  • Jeremy2Wheel

Posted March 08, 2007 - 12:11 PM


Thanks for the advice guys. I had to tap my crank out, but it came out with little trouble. The bearing came out with the crank, but I think the harbor freight tool will work great. Thanks for that tip Randall, I have never seen a tool like that before. Your plan to assemble sounds good to me. That's how I install bearings, freeze the bearing and heat the case. They usually just fall into place. Thanks again:ride:

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  • randall205

Posted March 08, 2007 - 03:24 PM


I think I'm going to change the way I install my crank. I talked to a few people and they said I should: Install the bearings in the case halves and then make a puller to pull the crank into the left case half. I will be doing this, I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks,

  • xrltim

Posted March 08, 2007 - 07:57 PM


Make sure you spray carb cleaner through the oil gallery holes to clear any machining fluid or debris out. I rebuilt an XR250L a few years ago that had just had a new crank and rod installed. The gallery was plugged with something and the bottom end of the con rod was seized with only a few hours on the engine. Clean oil and nothing odd in the crank case. The crank was okay but the rod was toast. Luckily nothing else was damaged and it went back together for about $150 plus gaskets.:applause:

  • randall205

Posted March 28, 2007 - 02:32 PM


Here's how I installed my crank:

Heat cleaned cases and freeze bearings.
Install cold bearings into hot case halves (only had to tap in one bearing with a rubber mallet and correctly sized socket).
Sprayed crank snout and left side case main bearing with lube (I used lithium grease, don't know if that's correct, but it's what I used).
I made a series of sleeves/tubes to pull the crank in. The tubes ranged in length from 1" to about 1.9". The OD was just under 2.2 (has to fit inside the spacer under the bearing) and the ID doesn't matter a whole lot so long as it's larger than the OD of the crank snout and smaller than the inner bearing race before the ID fillet. I greased the threads inside the crank (stator bolt) and the stator bolt. I used a soft aluminum washer to allow some give in my system (bolt is about 1/2" and the ID of my tubes was more like 1.75"). I started the crank into the bearing carefully by hand, then installed my shortest tube/washer/stator bolt from the outside of the case. I tightened the bolt carefully and made sure not to exceed the torque required for the stator (so I knew I wouldn't ruin the threads). I would tighten the bolt as much as I could, then switch to a longer tube and redo the process, eventually using the 1.9" tube to finish the job. By using a series of tubes you maximize the amount of threads that are engaged and reduce the chance of pulling them out. The more tubes you make, the finer you can pull it. I made three tubes (1.1, 1.5, and 1.9) and would not recommend any less. The idea is to pull the crank snout only on the ID bearing race. If this doesn't make sense let me know and I can try to explain it again. Thanks,

  • Jeremy2Wheel

Posted March 28, 2007 - 03:47 PM


That sounds great Jed:thumbsup: I may try a different variation if I can find a long enough bolt with the same thread pattern as the stator bolt. Using your method I will have one tube long enough to do the entire press. I will thread a nut on the long bolt and put a washer under the nut. Next, I'll insert the bolt in the tube and bottom the bolt out in the crank. Then I'll use the nut to pull the crank in. The head of the bolt will hopefully allow some additional control throughout the process. Hopefully I can find a piece of pvc to use for the tube part. Thanks for the great advice. When I show off this method I will give you credit.

  • randall205

Posted March 29, 2007 - 10:22 AM


I would stongly suggest doing the method you mention. I had the same idea, I just got ancy and couldn't wait until the hardware store was open to get a long enough bolt. So I made the spacers various lengths to accomodate the shorter bolt, and I greased the crap out of the threads to help prevent galling. I think the stator bolt is an M12 x 1.25 thread. I had considered cutting a slot in the top of the bolt also so you could hold it in place with a large screwdriver to keep it from turning...Good luck,

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