Need Help with Dimensions for USD conversion


60 replies to this topic
  • jesusgatos

Posted November 05, 2007 - 03:26 PM

#41

Here are those pics from ESS

pic 1

pic 2

pic 3

pic 4

  • ESS

Posted November 05, 2007 - 03:29 PM

#42

Thanks for posting those!!

  • jesusgatos

Posted November 05, 2007 - 03:30 PM

#43

It's hard to tell from those pics, but it doesn't look like the steering stops on the triple actually contact the steering stops on the frame. I'd be pretty concerned about that sharp point digging into the frame...

  • ESS

Posted November 06, 2007 - 02:15 AM

#44

I've smacked it left and right just to be sure and it doesn't seem to do any damage. The metal there is very thick. It's not hitting exactly where stock was, but it's a lot thicker section than the part in front. It actually contacts exactly on the indent just to the front of the stock steering stop patch. Plenty of metal there. Plus it gets the full turning radius. I pointed it for looks, not knowing it was going to contact there. I may round it a bit, but it doesn't seem to do any damage. Like I said, if it was left alone it would have been a rounder contact point but I thought the front was going to hit like on mine. I should have checked before shaping it like my stops, but I thought all the CRF trees were the same for all years.:worthy: I'm still a lot happier with this set-up (my sons) than mine. It takes care of the only things that were bugging me at all.

  • jesusgatos

Posted November 06, 2007 - 10:05 AM

#45

You're right. It would be pretty easy to shape those steering stops so there would be a little more meat where they contact the frame and getting a full turning radius is better than not.

  • jesusgatos

Posted March 26, 2008 - 09:38 AM

#46

I know it's been a while since I've updated this thread, but I finally found a machinist. Since these are just going to be one-offs for now, I changed the design slightly to save some money; I'm just going to use a SCOTTS/BRP sub-mount from a CRF. I still need to validate a couple of dimensions and then have this machinist whip out a set of these tripleclamps. I'll post-up some pictures when they're done.

  • Blownaway

Posted April 05, 2008 - 01:55 AM

#47

I just found this thread.I am curious to see how it works out.

  • MAX2

Posted June 29, 2008 - 11:00 PM

#48

any progress on this project ??

  • BWB63

Posted June 30, 2008 - 07:09 AM

#49

I have just bought a set of CR500R forks also.........

  • jesusgatos

Posted June 30, 2008 - 09:23 AM

#50

any progress on this project ??

No. I sent the files to the machinist over two months ago, but he's been too busy to run my parts and I'm not really in a position to complain because he's hooking me up with two sets of tripleclamps for a pretty good price. But I just talked to him last Thursday and he said it's going to be at least another month, so I'm not sure when I'll have a set of finished tripleclamps to show you guys.

I have just bought a set of CR500R forks also.........

I saw that you posted something about going to USD forks in another thread. Why CR500 forks and what tripleclamps are you planning to use?

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  • eastreich

Posted June 30, 2008 - 11:28 AM

#51

If BWB63 is like me, he just prefers the old KYBs over the new twin chamber Showas. At least that is why I've got a set of forks of off an '01 CR125R. I new that I was going to be into the forks alot with the valving, and I already had all of the special tools to work on the KYBs in my toolbox. Figured I might as well go with a known quantity.

I'm not saying that the newer twin chambers are worse, I am sure that is not the case! The improvement in handling over the stock conventional forks is so great that it seemed less important to me. Plus the fact that I was able to pick up a complete set of forks for under $150 on ebay helped ease the decision as well. You can't find a set of modern twin chambers for that kind of price unless someone's hamster is asleep at the wheel.

OEM CR500 lower clamp and a BRP upper (for the 500) make it a bolt on affair. I am also using the BRP Scotts mount for the 500 with a little machining to work with my forward mount. The stock 650 stem and bearings work with those clamps. I just had to do some VERY minor machining to the steering stops to make it all work right. You don't have to do the milling, but without it you have less turning radius. I am using a 2006 CRF250R front wheel assembly, brake rotor, and axle. Stock XR650R caliper, caliper mounting bracket, and front fender.

From what I understand, you can use the CR500 clamps with newer Showa Twin Chamber forks as well. They supposedly have the same diameters at the clamping surfaces.

  • jesusgatos

Posted June 30, 2008 - 11:58 AM

#52

Huh, that's interesting. How well do the steering stops on the CR500 tripleclamps match-up to the 650? Mind posting a few pictures for us?

  • BWB63

Posted June 30, 2008 - 03:38 PM

#53

Easier.....not better.....In the end I will just have to change the fluid more often and the amount of revalving I do that won't matter.
I have Rad hubs so I can use the same wheel assembly with the oversized rotor. I have a mill, lathe and press so I can go either way but, easier sounds good, $150 for real nice complete CR500R forks 52mm/43mm with triples, everything. Older CR500R forks are 50mm/43mm, I have both. I like the idea of rubber mounted bar mounts. I have a couple of CR500R's here and I bought the extra forks along the way might as well use them. I won't get to this prodject for a few month.......I have an older CR500R and was thinking of putting XR650R forks on it.

This is one of the best threads this group can have......Real fixing, cutting, horsepower, suspension, faster, better built then Honda sold stuff...
The stuff that makes a big difference in biulding bikes to work at their best on this group has gotten lost. It seems what is the best 50/50 tire and should I get a lotta or mokacapachino before I ride my "L" has taken over:banghead: :thumbsup:
I am waiting for some of the hard sore (oh wait that was core) riders still stuck on "L's" will make the switch to real bikes or start biulding theirs for some real reading on this group. Come on "L" guys put some 102mm 10:1 pistons in your bikes or at least give a step buy step of how to lose 40 pounds off the bike:p

http://borynack.com/XR650R/

  • eastreich

Posted June 30, 2008 - 06:43 PM

#54

Alright, I got some picks of the lower clamps. Don't mind the dirt.

Posted Image

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I didn't have to do a thing to the stops where they contact the frame. That part was just right. I did have to trim the front of the stops (that don't do a thing) to clear the steering head on the 650R.

Other than that, press out the stem on your stock 650R lower clamp, press it into the CR500R lower clamp, press on the bearing and you are good to go. You may have to do a little filing around on the upper clamp depending on if you use a clamp with rubber bar mounts or not (I did). The extra material around the rubber mounts interfered very slightly with the stabilizer post mount that I have clamped around the steering head.

You can ignore the goofy temporary extension on the brake hose guide. That is just there to clear my 8" HID light frame brackets. One of these days I'll get off my lazy "you-know-what" and machine a proper extension. With the stock 650 light and numberplate on there, you don't need to do that.

  • jesusgatos

Posted July 04, 2008 - 11:44 AM

#55

Thanks for the pics. Those looks exactly like the CR/F tripleslamps that I have on my bike (while I'm waiting for the whizz-bang parts). The steering stops contact the frame at the same spots. On my bike, the steering is pretty severely limited because the pinch-bolts on the lower tripleclamp would contact the Unabiker radiator guards if I trimmed the stops to let it steer any further.

  • rhythmofbeing

Posted July 04, 2008 - 03:28 PM

#56

OEM CR500 lower clamp and a BRP upper (for the 500) make it a bolt on affair...The stock 650 stem and bearings work with those clamps.


Does this mean that I can bolt on a CR500 front end by just pressing the 650 stem and bearings into the CR clamps? If so, cool!

  • eastreich

Posted July 04, 2008 - 09:35 PM

#57

Does this mean that I can bolt on a CR500 front end by just pressing the 650 stem and bearings into the CR clamps? If so, cool!


Yep. If you look up the p/ns for the upper and lower bearings for late model CR500s and the 650R are the same, so it is a simple bolt on affair.

Buy a used '98 or up CR500, put the complete front end on your 650R, use the shock body for the hybrid shock conversion for the 650R, and then sell the 500 motor to someone that is looking to build a 500AF, and part out the rest on ebay.:thumbsup:

  • rhythmofbeing

Posted July 05, 2008 - 06:51 AM

#58

Yep.


Very nice!

Next question: I assume the 650R wheel won't just bolt on, but will the CR hub lace to the 650 wheel? It seems like most forks for sale online don't have the wheel/axle included, so I'm just trying to figure out what else needs to be bought.

  • eastreich

Posted July 05, 2008 - 09:00 AM

#59

Very nice!

Next question: I assume the 650R wheel won't just bolt on, but will the CR hub lace to the 650 wheel? It seems like most forks for sale online don't have the wheel/axle included, so I'm just trying to figure out what else needs to be bought.


You are right, the XR wheel will not bolt on to the CR forks. The axle is too small, and I could not find a set of bearings that would allow the use of the CR axle with the XR hub. If you know someone that is a really good machinist you could have them make you a custom axle or inserts for the CR fork lugs that would allow you to use the XR wheel assembly.

You can lace the XR rim to the CR hub. If someone is using a 21" front wheel it is easier to just find a complete used CR/F wheel, but if you've already got a 17" front for SM use you can just unlace one hub and relace the other one. You will also need the front axle, wheel spacer (brake side), and hub cover (non-brake side). If you still want to use the stock odometer, you will have to have the hub from an X along with the hub drive gear and front axle from that bike. The front brake rotors also have a different bolt mounting pattern so they are not interchangeable.

  • jesusgatos

Posted September 25, 2012 - 12:31 PM

#60

It's been a long time and I don't even own an XR650R anymore, but several people have inquired about these tripleclamps recently and we just launched GatosBros, so figured we might as well make these available. At least a small batch. Should know more about pricing later this week, but please post-up if you're interested so I have some idea how many sets we should make.

Spent the last couple days tuning-up these old CAD files, making some small revisions and improvements. Incorporated the handlebar perch mounts that we developed for our KTM stabilizer mounts (patents pending). With this system, the handlebar perch height is adjustable (using different spacers and topscaps), and the way it's set-up now, there are four different positions that the handlebars can be mounted in: 1) -3mm, 2) +3mm, 3) +12mm, 4) +18mm. Although if you want to run an underbar-mounted steering stabilizer, you're pretty much limited to positions 3 and 4, but if you want to run the bars closer than that, you probably shouldn't be running a stabilizer under the bars anyway (too tall). Also streamlined the tripleclamps around the pinchbolts, made some revisions to the webbing and relief cuts on the underside of the tripleclamps, and a few other small cosmetic enhancements.

  • 26mm offset (vs. stock 24mm offset) in order to compensate for the reduced offset at the axle
  • geometry optimized for Scotts steering stabilizer AND forward-mount frame clamp
  • full range of steering (80 degrees - same as stock) & steering stops in stock location
  • handlebar position (height & offset) adjustable
  • designed to use KTM handlebar perches (any, including rubber-mounted PDHS perches)
  • re-use stock XR650R steering stem & bearings (no modifications)
  • no fender clearance issues

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