What Oil To Use In 06-07 YZ forks


27 replies to this topic
  • alien

Posted February 19, 2007 - 02:53 PM

#1

I'ts time to change the fork oil in my 06 yz 450 but I am not sure what to use. I would like to replace it with the same oil it came stock with, but I don't know if it is yamaha O1 or something new for the SSS forks. Any one know what weight yam. O1 oil is? Which oil do you guys use?
Also, do KYB forks still have a problem with the mid valve shim fatigue causing the forks to feel soft after a period of time?

  • BuckHopkins

Posted February 19, 2007 - 02:57 PM

#2

i wasnt aout to pay 30 bucks a bottle for yamaha 01 fork oil, so in my 01 426 i put light weight silkolene oil in mine when i rebuilt them, it doesnt leak and handles WAY better (tho they arent blown now..) i havent noticed any long term effects, i guess i'll pay for it if it happens!

  • grayracer513

Posted February 19, 2007 - 04:49 PM

#3

I used Maxima Light Shock Fluid (3wt) in mine and in the two forks I just did for a couple of friends. Seems to work fine.

  • steve_97060

Posted February 19, 2007 - 05:49 PM

#4

according to the maxima website, their 5 wt fork oil is the same viscosity fluid as 01, SS7, or std. KYB fluid and is recommended for most late model mx forks...

  • grayracer513

Posted February 19, 2007 - 07:15 PM

#5

according to the maxima website, their 5 wt fork oil is the same viscosity fluid as 01, SS7, or std. KYB fluid and is recommended for most late model mx forks...

According to the Yamaha Service manual, however, the '06 fork does not use "01" fluid. It uses "S1" instead, which is closer to 3wt than to 5wt.

  • StPeters21

Posted February 19, 2007 - 07:59 PM

#6

I had mine re-valved by pro-action and they use (basically) maxima with their name on it.

  • dwnlowx

Posted February 19, 2007 - 09:19 PM

#7

i would use race techs ultra slick oil its great i got in my 2 stroke when i got the seals changed and it really helped out alot

  • motobeck

Posted February 20, 2007 - 09:01 AM

#8

I used Maxima Light Shock Fluid (3wt) in mine and in the two forks I just did for a couple of friends. Seems to work fine.


I was was planning on taking Grays advice until the Yamaha shop gave me the S1 fluid for half price. Seems they order the stuff and it ends up sitting on the shelf due to the price. You might check with your local dealer and see what they will do for you.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 20, 2007 - 10:32 AM

#9

...Seems they order the stuff and it ends up sitting on the shelf due to the price.

At only $27/qt? Go figure.

  • tammie

Posted February 20, 2007 - 10:53 AM

#10

well i JUST literally came from the local shop i went in to buy fork oil this is my first time doing the fork seals myself so i had no idea what to use, i know the guys well over there as i am always there. I asked the mechanic what weight oil i should use for my weight and riding. I was looking at the Bel Ray fork oils he said no no you have to use this yamaha 01 oil the manual recommends it so i bought that, it was 27.95 a bottle but they give me 20% off there so it ended up costing me 50 CND for the oil.........grrrrrrrr

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  • tammie

Posted February 20, 2007 - 10:59 AM

#11

oh also i meant to ask, to take the cartridge apart inside the lower fork tube did you guys buy the special tool or make one out of pipe? id like to take the cartridge apart to clean in there since im not sure its ever been done(do they take the cartridge apart and clean with a standard fork seal/oil replacement at the shop i wouldn't think so)? also for the 14mm hex nut required at the bottem do you have to have a impact drill?? if you don't have the special "cartridge holder" is there another method that works to hold the cartridge in the vice, for the outer tubes i just wrapped some rubber hose around it 3 times, placed in vice and that worked but im not sure this would work for the cartridge and don't want to damage it. Ok one more thing, what is the point of the peening if you just have to remove it to take the cartridge apart and then when you put it back together you can't re peen it??? i dont' get it, is this just the way its made from factory and then they know that your just going to drill out the peens eventually?? when you put it back together, there is no more peening so why is this done in the first place, im a bit confused on that.?

Ive already spent 60 dollars on the seal driver and 50 dollars on fork oil, and 25 on oil n dust seals, don't want to spend any more $!!

  • grayracer513

Posted February 20, 2007 - 11:36 AM

#12

But Tammie, you have the old KYB single chamber 46mm fork, which is a whole different deal. If you haven't opened the fork oil yet, take it back and get some good after market 5wt (the SAE equivalent to "01"), like Maxima. It's about $8-11 USD per quart, and works great.

There is no need to remove the damper cartridge or base valve when doing a simple seal replacement on the older fork, except that you can clean the valve out a little better. If you still want to, check this out:

http://motoman393.th.../cartridge.html

  • tammie

Posted February 20, 2007 - 12:17 PM

#13

ok thanx i havn't opened the bottle so im definately going to exchange it.....the only fork oil i saw at my local shot was "Bel Ray" is this ok, i saw 5wt in that... 13.99 CND

hey thanx for that link, i thought it was recommending taking the cartridge apart once per year to clean out the "sludge" that gets at the bottem?

anyways i just like taking things apart haha...

ok what about that whole peening thing i asked about what is the point of that?

  • grayracer513

Posted February 20, 2007 - 12:38 PM

#14

Peening is done to keep the nut on. It's only needed if you dismantle the base valve.

Cleaning out the sludge is, of course, a good idea, but not strictly necessary for most people, and it can be accomplished "reasonably" well by working clean mineral spirits through the unit, followed by a small amount of clean oil. If you have the tools and the time, and it hasn't been done in a while, then do it if you like. But if you're just quickly replacing a seal, there's no need

  • tammie

Posted February 20, 2007 - 03:13 PM

#15

ok i know the peening is to keep the nut on but what about when you drill out the peens to dismantle, then when you put it back together there is no more peening, if the peening is for keeping the nut on then is the nut not as secure when you put it back together?

  • grayracer513

Posted February 20, 2007 - 04:09 PM

#16

If you insist on disassembling it, re-peen it in a different spot.

  • 02YZ426

Posted February 20, 2007 - 05:04 PM

#17

I've been using Maxima 7wt oil... works great!

  • tammie

Posted February 20, 2007 - 06:33 PM

#18

what i was actually getting at is does is HAVE to be re peened? hahah sorry to sound insistant or dumb ive just never taken the forks apart and learning.....im very thorough and meticulous with my stuff....

  • grayracer513

Posted February 20, 2007 - 07:38 PM

#19

Just to be clear, what specific part is it that you are speaking of being peened?

  • tammie

Posted February 21, 2007 - 05:18 AM

#20

not the actually nut but the cartridge itself i watched a video on fork maintenance and the guy just put it all back together with some lock tight...not re peening it was the same forks i have......exactly..





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