Dumb clutch question


9 replies to this topic
  • slepe67

Posted February 14, 2007 - 03:04 PM

#1

I've got a 2000 XR600R. I have been doing a bit of wrenching lately, improving the bike. The OLD clutch lever worked as advertised, I just didn't like having 2 levers on that side (decompression lever). Anyhow, I replaced with a kind of lame Sunline 2 in one lever system, with the "adjust on the fly" knobs. While running it today, I noticed that the clutch now lets out at one inch from the end of its travel. It wasnt like that before I swapped out controls. Now, I have read in the SEARCH function, that the clutch is supposedly on its way out. I took the bike for a spin, and when I got on it, the clutch was grabbing a bit. Meaning the more I rolled it back, the longer it took for the clutch to "let go" and let the bike go on its own. I tried to adjust the knob, and by rotating the adjsutment knob (the direction that the TOP of the knob is being turned) forward, it seems to make the slipping (grabbing?) worse. So, now it is rolled full aft, and the bike still doesnt work properly. I dont know crap about clutches, so I apologize about my terminology on this one. Reading my Clymers Manual, on page 43, it states I need 10-20mm (3/8-3/4 inches of free play. &%$#@! is this FREE PLAY? IS it at the clutch lever or down on the crank case? Now, reading on page 44, there is a typo in the exact spot where I need to read some critical info. It reads as follows: "sure the clutch fully engages; if it does not, the clutch will slip, particularly when accelerating in high gear." Well, there ya go. What is BEFORE the word SURE? The prior page isnt related to it. Well, I'm gonna go buy my wife some food for our anniversary and V-Day. have fun and thanks once again for the help. Someday I'll be able to help others out on here. Later JL

  • cleonard

Posted February 14, 2007 - 03:18 PM

#2

It's measured at the end of the clutch lever. With the lever all the way off the end of the lever should move that 3/8th to 3/4 of an inch before you start to frrl resistance from starting to disengage the clutch. I feel the 3/4 is a bit much, but the main thing is that there is at least some.

Mine doesn't work so well when the bike is cold. I can't push the bike when it is in gear no matter what I do with the clutch because it drags so much. As soon as it warms up a bit then it works right and stopps draging

  • slepe67

Posted February 14, 2007 - 04:18 PM

#3

When you say "all the way off", you mean released, correct? My clutch lever engages pretty much from the time I pull it in, till about 1/2 way thru its travel to the rear. Havent measured, but, it is an odd feeling. I'll mess with it tonite, and if I have any more questions, I'll put a pic in to further explain my problems. Thanks again.

  • bork

Posted February 14, 2007 - 07:20 PM

#4

Another words, When there are no hands on, the lever up at the grip, should flop foward and backward approx 1/2" at the outside tip of lever, not pivot point. make sense?

  • XR4DEZ

Posted February 14, 2007 - 08:47 PM

#5

3/8" or 1/2" at the pivot on the clutch lever is good. The lever at the engine should move back and forth freely. The longer you ride your bike the more you might have to loosen the play up, the clutches expand a bit with heat. Do you still have the stock clutch pack?

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  • bork

Posted February 15, 2007 - 05:03 AM

#6

3/8" or 1/2" at the pivot on the clutch lever is good. The lever at the engine should move back and forth freely. The longer you ride your bike the more you might have to loosen the play up, the clutches expand a bit with heat. Do you still have the stock clutch pack?


Isn't the pivot where the "bolt" holds the actual finger lever to perch? 1/2" there would translate to the lever pulled in all the way to the grip, wouldn't it?
You were asking about stock clutch pack? I just ordered new factory friction disc, is this good or bad? or something out there better?

  • slepe67

Posted February 15, 2007 - 07:12 AM

#7

I didnt mess with the clutch itself. Only the clutch lever. Sorry for the confusion. I'm gonna go look at it now, I will keep you posted. Thanks.

  • slepe67

Posted February 15, 2007 - 11:32 AM

#8

so, for a simple man, who has no clue on HOW a clutch even works, is this how I sould get more slack in my cable? Moving the nut to the left (small arrow direction).

http://i20.photobuck...pe67/clutch.jpg

  • slepe67

Posted February 15, 2007 - 04:41 PM

#9

that is exactly what I did. I rolled the nuts about 1/4 inch to the left as seen in the picture above. I fired that PIG up, and she ran like a raped ape! I was taking it on a test run, and went thru some tight turny, loamy stuff. Left it in 2nd and hammered it. Beautiful. Then, got on the highway and was following some slow FL traffic, and looked about 50m to my right, off the side of the raod. Pipeline tracks. I rolled it back and slid right. I passed all the cars that were previously slowing me down. I looked left, and each and everyone of the drivers was looking at me, jaw dropped, in disbelief. I was only doing about 75...DAM THAT BIKE IS FUN! I am so glad I made the choice to sell the Harleys and keep this thing....later, thanks for the help again. JL gotta go find me some black rims.

  • XR4DEZ

Posted February 15, 2007 - 06:15 PM

#10

Isn't the pivot where the "bolt" holds the actual finger lever to perch? 1/2" there would translate to the lever pulled in all the way to the grip, wouldn't it?
You were asking about stock clutch pack? I just ordered new factory friction disc, is this good or bad? or something out there better?


I use the stock clutch pack with a slight change. Most of the desert guys pull the judder and small friction plate next to it out. Then go back with a clutch pack of 7 fibers and six steel. I usally change all the parts about once a season.





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