Rekluse perch adjuster or not?

[gdbarr1976]

For thoughs of you that have been using a rekluse for awhile as have I, I would like your opinions on the perch adjuster vs whaterver they call that other adjuster thing. I have tried every combo and I seem to like whatever set up I am using at the time. I am beginning to think the perch adjuster may not be giving me as consistent engagment as just the adjuster on the engine. Opinions??

[642MX]

For thoughs of you that have been using a rekluse for awhile as have I, I would like your opinions on the perch adjuster vs whaterver they call that other adjuster thing. I have tried every combo and I seem to like whatever set up I am using at the time. I am beginning to think the perch adjuster may not be giving me as consistent engagment as just the adjuster on the engine. Opinions??

I've had a Rekluse for almost 3 years now.

A lot of people get frustrated with the perch adjuster when actually the cable length is way off causing the problems.

Here is how I do it: I adjust my cable length first. You want the clutch lever to tighten up approximately 1/2 inch away from the grip. Once the cable length is determined you can adjust the spring tension for your riding style. I use the soft spring for both MX and woods. I've tried the harder spring, but don't care for the abrupt hit when the clutch engauges. I thread the adjuster in about 1/4 inch from the end for woods and about a 1/2 inch for MX.

Hope this helps.

[gdbarr1976]

I've had a Rekluse for almost 3 years now.

A lot of people get frustrated with the perch adjuster when actually the cable length is way off causing the problems.

Here is how I do it: I adjust my cable length first. You want the clutch lever to tighten up approximately 1/2 inch away from the grip. Once the cable length is determined you can adjust the spring tension for your riding style. I use the soft spring for both MX and woods. I've tried the harder spring, but don't care for the abrupt hit when the clutch engauges. I thread the adjuster in about 1/4 inch from the end for woods and about a 1/2 inch for MX.

Hope this helps.

I appreciate the reply. That is pretty much the way I have mine set. Have you tried the tungsten balls? I needed to get a new gasket so I have ordered them. I tried the adjuster just on the engine and it seem to give a more consistetent engagment but it just may be my imagination.

[642MX]

I appreciate the reply. That is pretty much the way I have mine set. Have you tried the tungsten balls? I needed to get a new gasket so I have ordered them. I tried the adjuster just on the engine and it seem to give a more consistetent engagment but it just may be my imagination.

I have tried the tungsten balls and didn't care for them, I left them in for a few rides before deciding that they aren't for me. My biggest complaint with the tungsten balls where, on a really steep hill the motor would lug too much and the clutch wouldn't slip enough to get the motor back in the power curve. On a MX track the heavier balls worked fine everywhere but the starts and once again I found the motor lugging and the clutch not slipping enough.

I've tried the adjuster on the actuator arm and found it to work okay, but I prefer the perch adjuster. Take a look at a few things on the perch adjuster that commonly cause troubles. Make sure the spring isn't binding in the barrel and make sure the clutch cable is good and lubed. There shouldn't be any difference in the consistancy of the engaugement.

Also, when you put the tungsten balls in, make sure you take a scribe and scratch a mark in each slot where you put the tungsten balls. That way if you decide you don't like them you can easily remove them.

[gdbarr1976]

I have tried the tungsten balls and didn't care for them, I left them in for a few rides before deciding that they aren't for me. My biggest complaint with the tungsten balls where, on a really steep hill the motor would lug too much and the clutch wouldn't slip enough to get the motor back in the power curve. On a MX track the heavier balls worked fine everywhere but the starts and once again I found the motor lugging and the clutch not slipping enough.

I've tried the adjuster on the actuator arm and found it to work okay, but I prefer the perch adjuster. Take a look at a few things on the perch adjuster that commonly cause troubles. Make sure the spring isn't binding in the barrel and make sure the clutch cable is good and lubed. There shouldn't be any difference in the consistancy of the engaugement.

Also, when you put the tungsten balls in, make sure you take a scribe and scratch a mark in each slot where you put the tungsten balls. That way if you decide you don't like them you can easily remove them.

ok Thanks,

[ncmountainman]

i would forget about the perch adjuster,the engagement is much more consistant with the motor mounted spring. the newest generation of rekluse is said to behave as if stock(which the other with perch adj does not,anything after engagement is hard to override) so it would would be better with the new one i suppose.

[YZ426F Rider]

I don't run the perch adjuster but there is one situation where I would like to have it and that is when climbing real steep hills. If the front end starts to come up I would rather feather the clutch to keep it down instead of backing off on the throttle.

I just race offroad but if I were racing MX I think I would want it for the starts.

[ncmountainman]

it doesn't quite work like that,after engagement you are fighting the cetrifugal force of the balls ramping up the plate,at about 4k rpm it becomes very hard or if not impossible to disengage or slip while still on the gas. the new setup(pro) is said to cure this:excuseme:

[gdbarr1976]

it doesn't quite work like that,after engagement you are fighting the cetrifugal force of the balls ramping up the plate,at about 4k rpm it becomes very hard or if not impossible to disengage or slip while still on the gas. the new setup(pro) is said to cure this:excuseme:

This whole auto clutch thing is really srewing with my head. I have tried every combo imaginabe. I was convinced I could ride faster without it until I compared my scores vs with it and the answer was obveous. Faster with it. So, this last time I put it on and set it up with as quick as engagement as possible and very little slip then used the clutch lever and ran it kind of like a slipper clutch. Other words I used the clutch as a regular clutch but with the auto as a back up and I could use one finger. It worked great but I fried my clutch. The plates were about shot so you gotta figure that in. So, I am thinking after I put in a new set of plates I might run no perch adjuster so then I will keep from using the clutch like a clutch. Got it? The bad part is I make my decisions about what to do while laying awake at nite thinking about it. That's not right. Please, someone that is serious A class off road racer tell me what to do so I can get some sleep.

[ncmountainman]

well i'm in B class HS,i can ride with the A riders but run outa steam(must be a physical fitness thing:busted: ) anyways i had the perch adj for about a yr....lubed the cable regularly,even had the longer cable that rekluse offers. like i said it was not worth it,the engagement was definately better as soon as i got rid of the cable. i was one of those people who was skeptical about the auto clutch thing but decided to try it out of curiosity...thats why i kept the clutch lever in the 1st place. but after several adjustment issues(especially during a race when things get hot) i finally took the advice of several others who had been down the same road and got rid of the perch adj., you've never said what bike your running but i'm guessing 426/450 from the forum you posted;these bikes have gobs of torque and when tuned to the bottom end the motor works well with this clutch and anything that needs doing can be done with your throttle hand. even after tuning the clutch engagement correctly to really get it right you must then tune the motor to work with that engagement point. for my 05 450 w/13-52's the clutch setup i run is 3 tc ball's,i try to keep on the larger side of the gap(.036-.043),run the heavy spring on the motor with a good amount of tension. this puts my engagement right above idle and depending on how fast i hit the gas i can either slip or have instant engagement. as far as the motor goes;this clutch seems to exagerrate any richness off the bottom,so you must run a straight taper needle(i've been told to try a EMS) and a leaner pilot circuit right at the edge of too lean. a adjustable fuel screw is a definate plus as i need to lean it during a race as it heats up. anything that helps it run on the bottom end is a plus also,i run the pwerbomb header w/powercore4,powernow,vortex ign,and have just gotten a crower G1 intake cam thats not installed yet. also you might try the throttle cam system,it has 3 cams for the throttle cables,one does very fast engagement,one reg,and one slower for tight muddy stuff. i got it for the slower one and will change it out between the reg and slow as conditions vary. so all that said... its not over once you get the clutch where ya want it,you then have to tune the motor to the clutch:thumbsup:

[TexN343]

The perch adjuster is why I love my Rekluse it allows you to pull in the clutch and keep revs high then just dump the clutch and get perfect clutch feathering. I can start out in 3rd gear this way and still struggle to keep the front down. Hole shot WEAPON!!!!!

[soundqplus]

There is a lot of good info here! Keep it up guys. I ride a stock '03 yz450f and have loved it thus far. I tend to do more woods than anything else and the only complaint I have is the tall 1st gear in the tight stuff. I have been wondering about the Rekluse. Many seem to like it...

[Fastest1]

I could see it working better with it theoretically, however the extra drag of the cable hinders it just enough. I notice some dont think so and claim longer cables needed etc., just look at the wimpy spring (whether weak or the strong one) it is so light that the resistance of an additional cable would have a big effect. Also regaring the front end lifting on hills, leave the throttle on and drag the brake momentarily. Does the same thing.

[gdbarr1976]

well i'm in B class HS,i can ride with the A riders but run outa steam(must be a physical fitness thing:busted: ) anyways i had the perch adj for about a yr....lubed the cable regularly,even had the longer cable that rekluse offers. like i said it was not worth it,the engagement was definately better as soon as i got rid of the cable. i was one of those people who was skeptical about the auto clutch thing but decided to try it out of curiosity...thats why i kept the clutch lever in the 1st place. but after several adjustment issues(especially during a race when things get hot) i finally took the advice of several others who had been down the same road and got rid of the perch adj., you've never said what bike your running but i'm guessing 426/450 from the forum you posted;these bikes have gobs of torque and when tuned to the bottom end the motor works well with this clutch and anything that needs doing can be done with your throttle hand. even after tuning the clutch engagement correctly to really get it right you must then tune the motor to work with that engagement point. for my 05 450 w/13-52's the clutch setup i run is 3 tc ball's,i try to keep on the larger side of the gap(.036-.043),run the heavy spring on the motor with a good amount of tension. this puts my engagement right above idle and depending on how fast i hit the gas i can either slip or have instant engagement. as far as the motor goes;this clutch seems to exagerrate any richness off the bottom,so you must run a straight taper needle(i've been told to try a EMS) and a leaner pilot circuit right at the edge of too lean. a adjustable fuel screw is a definate plus as i need to lean it during a race as it heats up. anything that helps it run on the bottom end is a plus also,i run the pwerbomb header w/powercore4,powernow,vortex ign,and have just gotten a crower G1 intake cam thats not installed yet. also you might try the throttle cam system,it has 3 cams for the throttle cables,one does very fast engagement,one reg,and one slower for tight muddy stuff. i got it for the slower one and will change it out between the reg and slow as conditions vary. so all that said... its not over once you get the clutch where ya want it,you then have to tune the motor to the clutch:thumbsup:

My bike is a 06yz450. I talked with the guy at rekluse today. My clutch is about 1 year old and and did not come with any tungsten balls. I thought maybe the the clutches being shipped for these bikes now did. To my surprise he said no. Only the steel balls. So I guess they know best. But after talking to him awhile, he has a 05yz450f that runs 5 tungsten balls but he says he really just trail rides, We, as in him and me decided that 3 tungsten balls should be the ticket. So, tomorrow in goes 3 tungsten balls, new clutch plates, and off with the barrel adjuster. I am going to test it out this weekend around my house then it is off to the next sera hs of the year next weekend. Last weekend I had a race long battle with our off road monitor guy Dwight Rudder. He made the last pass stick and got me by 15 seconds. 15 seconds..that is the difference of 1 tungsten ball. That is why all this stuff is driving me nuts. It really does make a difference especially if you can't make it up in talent. Thanks for the input.

[gdbarr1976]

The perch adjuster is why I love my Rekluse it allows you to pull in the clutch and keep revs high then just dump the clutch and get perfect clutch feathering. I can start out in 3rd gear this way and still struggle to keep the front down. Hole shot WEAPON!!!!!

I was using the clutch like that but fried it last ride. I think I am going to shoot to set it up so I don't touch it, that is the lever.

[gdbarr1976]

I could see it working better with it theoretically, however the extra drag of the cable hinders it just enough. I notice some dont think so and claim longer cables needed etc., just look at the wimpy spring (whether weak or the strong one) it is so light that the resistance of an additional cable would have a big effect. Also regaring the front end lifting on hills, leave the throttle on and drag the brake momentarily. Does the same thing.

I think you are right. The drag of the cable may just make a difference. I am going to disconect it and go with the other adjster thing and just spend the time setting it up right.

[ncmountainman]

i didn't understand what you meant by the "difference in one tungsten ball" you cannot use just one as its a balance issue. it has to be a number divisable into 30 (but not 1) like 2,3,5,6 or 10 i've never heard of anyone using 15 but i suppose ya could. 3 and 5 are the most used,it depends alot on the primary drive ratio of a particular bike;faster clutch rpm = less need for the help of the heavier balls. i think you'll be happy with your choice:thumbsup: btw make sure the tc's are spaced evenly amoungst the the others and scratch(outside edge) the slots they are in for future refernece,they are very hard to tell apart without a triple beam.

[gdbarr1976]

i didn't understand what you meant by the "difference in one tungsten ball" you cannot use just one as its a balance issue. it has to be a number divisable into 30 (but not 1) like 2,3,5,6 or 10 i've never heard of anyone using 15 but i suppose ya could. 3 and 5 are the most used,it depends alot on the primary drive ratio of a particular bike;faster clutch rpm = less need for the help of the heavier balls. i think you'll be happy with your choice:thumbsup: btw make sure the tc's are spaced evenly amoungst the the others and scratch(outside edge) the slots they are in for future refernece,they are very hard to tell apart without a triple beam.

I didn't literally mean 1 tungsten ball. What I meant was a slight adjustment here or there could certainly make a difference in a 2 hr hare scrambles and more importantly bragging rights.

I just finished putting in the plates, three ts balls(evenly spaced) and disconected the barrel adjuster, put on that other adjuster and gave it a try. The engagement is sweat but the barrel aduster went back on because to me the ultimate set up is a auto clutch and a manual clutch working together. For me, now it is perfect. Dwight Rudder is going down! Tonite I will sleep.

[kxman]

I just started a thread called "06 with Rekluse set up trouble" I would appreciate it if you guys would take a look at it and offer some help.

Thanks

[hall1012]

This whole auto clutch thing is really srewing with my head. I have tried every combo imaginabe. I was convinced I could ride faster without it until I compared my scores vs with it and the answer was obveous. Faster with it. So, this last time I put it on and set it up with as quick as engagement as possible and very little slip then used the clutch lever and ran it kind of like a slipper clutch. Other words I used the clutch as a regular clutch but with the auto as a back up and I could use one finger. It worked great but I fried my clutch. The plates were about shot so you gotta figure that in. So, I am thinking after I put in a new set of plates I might run no perch adjuster so then I will keep from using the clutch like a clutch. Got it? The bad part is I make my decisions about what to do while laying awake at nite thinking about it. That's not right. Please, someone that is serious A class off road racer tell me what to do so I can get some sleep.

I second that.