2006 KX450F Manual incorrect!


26 replies to this topic
  • VETMX808

Posted 19 January 2007 - 10:17 AM

#1

Hey guys,

I dont know if you have seen this or not... (link is kinda weird, but just follow it as it requests)

http://putstuff.putf...m/38907/7506715

But the picture is incorrect!

It actually should be flipped when counting pins.

The start of the chain should be half way in between the hatch mark on the exhaust side ending 29 pins to the intake side exactly on the punch mark on the intake side. The important thing here is the marks on the exhaust and punch mark on the intake are level with the top of the head. When I finished counting and was a TDC, the marks were NOT LEVEL.

Believe me I tried the manual IT DOES NOT WORK. Unless something is really screwy with my bike. All should be aware...

  • xerces

Posted 19 January 2007 - 05:06 PM

#2

Unless I performed the steps wrong, I went by the book and everything worked great for me. Double and triple check?

  • motorman455

Posted 19 January 2007 - 05:36 PM

#3

xerces is right. go back and check the marks after running the bike. I thought I had the dots lined up with the top of the head but once the chain tightened up and I ran the bike they were not! I was surprised because the bike actually started fine but it did feal down on low-mid power which made me go back and check. Leaving that rubber gasket on the head also makes it difficult to tell if the marks are lined up. Pull that thing outta the way to line the dots up.

  • xerces

Posted 19 January 2007 - 07:26 PM

#4

Leaving that rubber gasket on the head also makes it difficult to tell if the marks are lined up.


Yeah, I thought I'd be lazy and try it while leaving that rubber gasket on. Ha!! All it did was cause me to take more time!

  • bcolmsted

Posted 20 January 2007 - 08:51 AM

#5

so, is the manual correct or incorrect???

  • Green_Rider_08

Posted 20 January 2007 - 09:01 AM

#6

I would also like to know the answer. Since rebuilding my bike it has acted up, popping an cracking bad. I was thinking it was the jetting, but I ain't for sure now. With the piston at tdc exhaust level with the head The mark was between the two pins as the manual shows, counted 29 pins an left it there cause it looked like the picture in the manual.

  • sj250

Posted 20 January 2007 - 02:04 PM

#7

I followed the manual on mine and it runs absolutely perfect!!

  • pil321

Posted 20 January 2007 - 05:48 PM

#8

I also followed the manual with no problems and mine runs fine. I did however have to stick my finger in the chain tensioner hole and take the slack out of the timing chain to line the dots up properly.

  • motorman455

Posted 23 January 2007 - 09:42 AM

#9

Green Rider, when my timing chain was off by a tooth I do recall it popped and cracked a bit. Kind of like when its too lean on decel but the fuel screw did nothing for it. After having it apart to adjust the valves, checking the gear mark alignment with the head is real quick. It's probably worth the 1/2 hour or so.

  • VETMX808

Posted 23 January 2007 - 10:14 AM

#10

xerces is right. go back and check the marks after running the bike. I thought I had the dots lined up with the top of the head but once the chain tightened up and I ran the bike they were not! I was surprised because the bike actually started fine but it did feal down on low-mid power which made me go back and check. Leaving that rubber gasket on the head also makes it difficult to tell if the marks are lined up. Pull that thing outta the way to line the dots up.



That is exactly what I did. I actually tried with the cams rotated one tooth to the left and then 1 tooth to the right of the suggested marks (pins). The bike would not start in the manuals correct picture or back 1 tooth on the cams. It ran perfect rotated 1 tooth to the left (both cams). Believe me I spent over 3 hours trying to figure it out and finally it worked. I just went riding last Sunday, and she purrrrs like never before!

  • JohnKorpita

Posted 23 January 2007 - 04:34 PM

#11

When I was looking through my manual, I noticed that the torque it says for the oil drain plug was listed at like 11 or 12 ft/lbs. If that was set on a torque wrench it would undoubtedly strip your bolt, or snap the head of the bolt off. 11 or 12 inch/lbs sounds more like what it should say. If anyone out there is trying to go by the book to ensure they don't strip any bolts, I would double check to make sure their readings are correct. I have definitely stripped a few bolts out over the years and try to go by the book in some cases, so just wanted to spread the word. (It was the manual for the 2006 KX450F.)

  • xerces

Posted 23 January 2007 - 05:11 PM

#12

When I was looking through my manual, I noticed that the torque it says for the oil drain plug was listed at like 11 or 12 ft/lbs. If that was set on a torque wrench it would undoubtedly strip your bolt, or snap the head of the bolt off. 11 or 12 inch/lbs sounds more like what it should say. If anyone out there is trying to go by the book to ensure they don't strip any bolts, I would double check to make sure their readings are correct. I have definitely stripped a few bolts out over the years and try to go by the book in some cases, so just wanted to spread the word. (It was the manual for the 2006 KX450F.)


11/12 ft lbs has worked flawlessly for me. Its not that much for the size of the bolt when you think about it. 11/12 inch lbs wouldn't hold anything. That's 1ft lbs of torque!!! I could do that with my finger.

  • JohnKorpita

Posted 24 January 2007 - 08:13 AM

#13

Well I'll have to check that my torque wrench is working properly. My 12 ft/lbs setting is extremely tight. thanks for the feedback.

  • xerces

Posted 24 January 2007 - 10:22 AM

#14

Well I'll have to check that my torque wrench is working properly. My 12 ft/lbs setting is extremely tight. thanks for the feedback.


You want extremely high? Check out the torque value for the counter shaft sprocket nut. The manual has it set higher than even my 05 GSX-R1000 sport bike. There was a thread floating around about how hard it was to loosen and some of the things guys had to do just to remove it.

But typically, 10-15 foot lbs isn't terribly high for larger nuts & bolts.

  • bcolmsted

Posted 07 February 2007 - 09:52 PM

#15

Just finished rebuild ,piston,pin valve springs and 55 leak jet...
Bike seems lean, hard to start and won`t idle down.Went back to check timing and it looks rite by the manual but wondering if its off..per this thread.Valve clearances are fine.The Exhaust cams lobes look to be at a slightly higher angle than the intake at tdc.Don`t think 55 leak jet wud cause this. We have checked for air leaks..Help pls..

  • bcolmsted

Posted 08 February 2007 - 06:59 AM

#16

Just finished rebuild ,piston,pin valve springs and 55 leak jet...
Bike seems lean, hard to start and won`t idle down.Went back to check timing and it looks rite by the manual but wondering if its off..per this thread.Valve clearances are fine.The Exhaust cams lobes look to be at a slightly higher angle than the intake at tdc.Don`t think 55 leak jet wud cause this. We have checked for air leaks..Help pls..



ttt ttt

  • xerces

Posted 08 February 2007 - 09:47 AM

#17

ttt ttt


Only thing I can say it double and triple check your timing marks. Make sure that the valve cover gasket is removed first so that you have a clear view. If this timing is of slightly, it can cause the issues you are experiencing.

  • bcolmsted

Posted 08 February 2007 - 10:13 AM

#18

Now that its cooled down, the intake valves are a little tight..BUT, we checked them before the valve springs were replaced and they were ok.
What concerns me is the postion of the cam lobes at tdc. The exhaust cam lobes are at a higher angle than the intake. Maybe its normal. 46 hrs on it.

  • xerces

Posted 08 February 2007 - 10:42 AM

#19

Now that its cooled down, the intake valves are a little tight..BUT, we checked them before the valve springs were replaced and they were ok.
What concerns me is the postion of the cam lobes at tdc. The exhaust cam lobes are at a higher angle than the intake. Maybe its normal. 46 hrs on it.


No it is not normal. They should look identical and at about a 45 degree angle. With the piston at TDC and the valve cover gasket and timing chain removed, spin the cams by hand to where their marks line up EXACTLY even with the top of the head (as shown in the manual). If they still do not look right, then my guess is that a cam sprocket has spun on you. If they do look correct then your timing chain pin count is probably off are off.

If neither case then I'm all out of ideas.

  • 155

Posted 08 February 2007 - 02:47 PM

#20

forget all the counting just make sure the marks are level with the head and timing holes are on tdc





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