First dirtbike. Suspension set-up?


12 replies to this topic
  • TWILES

Posted January 17, 2007 - 03:30 PM

#1

I posted this in the suspension forum and haven't gotten any replies so I'll try it here.

I have a 2005 WR450F. This is my first dirtbike. I have always ridden and raced quads and I have that suspension down to a science when it comes to setting it up. The bike doesn't have any kind of preload adjustment in the front and I'm at a loss. I'm 250lbs ready to go. I liked my quad suspension a little softer than I was told it needed to be. I also weighed 210 then. I know I need new springs. I don't know that I trust the calculators and don't know shit anyway. Anyone in my boat that could give me some advice? I've searched this and honestly don't know even the basics of forks enough to learn anything. I don't want to spend the money for a complete overhaul. I honestly don't feel like I can ride it good enough to take complete advantage of that anyway. Help :lol:

  • clark4131

Posted January 17, 2007 - 04:07 PM

#2

For your weight, I'd go with .50 springs up front, and a 6.0 or 6.2 out back. As far as valving goes, I'd do the springs first, ride it for a while and see what you think. You're looking at about $200 for the springs and another $10 for the fork oil. Just get a high quality 5 weight oil and you'll be good to go. The manual has an easy to follow system for the front and the rear could be changed by a retarded ape on life support, it's that easy. Just take your time and drink beer :lol:...SC

  • TWILES

Posted January 17, 2007 - 04:40 PM

#3

Oil? Seriously, I don't know shit. Are you saying that when I change the fork springs to dump the old oil out and replace it with 5wt? And how much? Reading other people's confuses me because they say you can add or take away oil depnding on how you like it. I'm guessing the more oil, the more dampening? Like with less oil the fork compresses and rebounds easier and more oil to displace means more resistance? I might be explaning this to myself. Help me out here. I'll have the basics down pretty soon if I'm on the right track.

  • clark4131

Posted January 18, 2007 - 12:06 PM

#4

You're right on the money regarding the oil. The manual gives you a range on the oil level. I run mine a little on the high side 'cuz I'm 230# and it seems to help quite a bit. Just follow the manual and you'll be fine...SC

  • Jekel

Posted January 18, 2007 - 06:56 PM

#5

Or you can call a suspension shop and ask what springs to get. Then while they are on the phone ask what grade of oil for the forks when you change the springs and what setting do they recommend. The shop should give this info to you prior to you buying the product. Then you will know up front what to do when following your manual. Be sure and do the torques per the book to prevent any damage and for safety.:lol:

  • clark4131

Posted January 18, 2007 - 07:13 PM

#6

Or you can call a suspension shop and ask what springs to get. Then while they are on the phone ask what grade of oil for the forks when you change the springs and what setting do they recommend. The shop should give this info to you prior to you buying the product. Then you will know up front what to do when following your manual. Be sure and do the torques per the book to prevent any damage and for safety.:confused:


'Cuz the guys on TT don't know what they're talking about :lol:...SC

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  • Jekel

Posted January 18, 2007 - 07:20 PM

#7

Yep, thats it. I don't know how the manual reads for this year bike but for mine it was confusing and I got some levels to adjust to from the local dealer when first working on mine. It adds confidence to hear this from more than one source whendoing it without prior knowledge.

  • clark4131

Posted January 18, 2007 - 07:43 PM

#8

In the downloadable manual in the Performance Index sticky, start on page 5-28. After you remove the cap, you can remove the spring and pour out the oil. You can then skip all the way to page 5-34 and follow the reinstall procedure until it ends on page 5-38. The pages in between go into complete disassembly of the fork which is unnecessary unless you're doing seals and/or other internals. The manual does call for a special spanner to hold the lock nut under the cap, but you can use a standard open end wrench without damaging anything. I'd recommend reading it a couple of times and getting an oil level measuring tool from Motion Pro. It's the one with the syringe on it for precise filling. Above and beyond that, it's a snap...SC

  • Jekel

Posted January 19, 2007 - 06:25 PM

#9

For a measuring tool I used a 60cc syringe with a tube attached by clear line. Used a drill stop to make my adjustment and it worked for me. What I meant by calling for advice is you may get a recommended level setting for free. My 99 was recommended at 100 from the top if I remember correctly, which was different from the manual. :lol:

  • byggd

Posted January 20, 2007 - 05:51 AM

#10

For your weight, I'd go with .50 springs up front, and a 6.0 or 6.2 out back. As far as valving goes, I'd do the springs first, ride it for a while and see what you think. You're looking at about $200 for the springs and another $10 for the fork oil. Just get a high quality 5 weight oil and you'll be good to go. The manual has an easy to follow system for the front and the rear could be changed by a retarded ape on life support, it's that easy. Just take your time and drink beer :lol:...SC

Mr. Clark. Are you implying we should consume alcoholic beverages while performing mechanical repairs on our motor vehicles??

  • byggd

Posted January 20, 2007 - 08:16 PM

#11

Oh come on people....it was a joke :lol:

  • clark4131

Posted January 21, 2007 - 07:50 AM

#12

Mr. Clark. Are you implying we should consume alcoholic beverages while performing mechanical repairs on our motor vehicles??


That's why I have a refrigerator right next to my rolling tool chest :lol:...SC

  • TWILES

Posted January 21, 2007 - 04:49 PM

#13

This is interesting to me and maybe others so...back on top. bump!




 
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