Any Tricks to getting stripped aluminum hex bolts out?



6 replies to this topic
  • Dougie

Posted January 08, 2002 - 08:43 AM

#1

I've got more stripped out bolts and holes on this damn bike.

Anyway, I need to get my steering damper off and one of the hex bolts is stripped out. I've got other aluminum hex bolts stripped too. Any ideas?

Thanks, Doug

  • MOmilkman

Posted January 08, 2002 - 08:50 AM

#2

Have em' Heli-coiled Doug.

Its just little spring-like steel inserts fit down into the stripped area and then you will have to use a appropriate bolt for the heli-coil but they are actually a lot stronger than the aluminum threads.
One of my thumper bar riser bolts stripped on me and I just had them all drilled out and heli-coiled.

If you've never done it though, you might have someone with some expertise in that area do it.

As far as getting the bolts out most people use a EZ-out. You drill the center of the bolt out and tap the ez-out in and then turn it counter clockwise untill it comes out.
I've never had too much luck with those though.

[ January 08, 2002: Message edited by: MOmilkman ]

  • Flamed1

Posted January 08, 2002 - 09:44 AM

#3

Dougie,
Depending on the location of the bolt, you can also use a dremel type tool to cut a slots in the bolt head and then use a screwdriver for removal.
Good Luck, :)
Brian

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  • rwcfrank

Posted January 08, 2002 - 11:35 AM

#4

Buy a set of left handed drill bits. Snap on has them. Drill a small hole in the center of the stripped bolt in the reverse drilling direction. The heat from the drilling coupled with the rekeif on the exterior threads usually causes the bolt to back out onto the drill bit.. They are trick as hell and work great.

  • mcarp

Posted January 08, 2002 - 03:07 PM

#5

RWCFrank's method might work better than this...snap on stuff Rocks!

You can use a screw extractor set from Sears.

You drill a pilot hole in the center of the bolt, then use an extractor which is designed to be put in your drill with the motor on reverse. The extractor will grip the walls of the hole you drilled, and back out the screw. The extractor set will tell you what size hole to drill for each extractor, mine came in a set of of 5.

Use WD-40/liquid wrench the night before you try to remove a bolt.

Try the dremel tool/cutoff wheel trick when the bolt head is exposed. The Damper screws are recessed so an extractor could be the only way.

Apply heat to the nut/mounts if you can, one of thse pencil-type butane torches work pretty well.

I've used the extractor and dremel methods before with good success. Good luck!

Oh, you're link to Moab is dead..

  • Woodzi

Posted January 08, 2002 - 03:22 PM

#6

Any time you have aluminum and steel together there will be corrosion. If it is a fastener that is not removed often, use some anti-seize when assembling and it will come apart easily next time.

  • ChR1s

Posted January 09, 2002 - 08:11 AM

#7

Hex socket buggered? This has worked for a few times for me; while you let a couple drops of penetrating fluid soak in, use the male end of drive extension on the head of the bolt, with a few taps of a hammer, to peen the edges of the socket back in. Then try tapping the end of the wrench with a hammer while you attempt to extract the bolt. I use a 3/8" drive slide bar handle, extension, and hex bit socket.




 
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