All the free mods are done...newbies read this


38 replies to this topic
  • jandmsuburban7

Posted January 20, 2007 - 10:10 AM

#21

Change the 739 to what?? Thanks

  • bullybull9

Posted January 20, 2007 - 02:19 PM

#22

when you jet the carb what makes the power differance,, the needle or the main jet , I did both and now the rear tire break loose ,, its driving me nuts, I want to change it back to stock with out making it leaner.

  • 520Roost

Posted January 20, 2007 - 09:54 PM

#23

jettings not going to slow it down,get on it ,its a BIG BOY toy.you can do it.

  • bullybull9

Posted January 21, 2007 - 04:37 AM

#24

DUDE It was fine before the jetting ,, now way to much power

  • bullybull9

Posted January 21, 2007 - 05:36 AM

#25

rear tire just spins ,, I'm trying to find out what part of the jetting caused the drastic power increase ,, the main or the needle?

  • Bamster

Posted January 21, 2007 - 07:05 AM

#26

More horse power = Less handeling

Any one with woods experience will tell you that.
You must have learned something becouse you got rid of your MX bike and bought a WR for woods riding. Then you made the mistake of making it more like an MX bike.
I know a guy who is an amazing rider and he used to ride a tricked out XR 250. It was so easy to go fast in the tight stuff with this bike. It was funny when he would smoke young guys on their big bore 4 stroke MX bikes. I love watching guys who buy the wrong bike for tight trails and end up looking like a monkey humping a football.They are wore out at the end of the day and can't figure out why they are so tired.
If where you ride is very tight and you are not a really big fellow, you may have been more happy on a lighter more controlable bike like the WR 250. This bike gets the label as being a girly bike but I can tell you I am much faster on a 250 than the big bore in tight ruff stuff. That is what the bike is built for.
I know I'll get flamed for this but, what the hell.
I don't know why I even come here anymore.

  • 520Roost

Posted January 21, 2007 - 08:00 AM

#27

Sorry,, was having fun listening to supercross.i think your biggest diffencein power came from the throttle stop. anyways the pilotjet is low throttle,the main is wide open,the needle just meters the main .did u try the bars more forward thing it made a night and day diffence,had it a 0 couldnt keep it down, moved the bars forward to the plus 1 made it very fun to ride, i only been on wet single trac,with little frosty snowmen so its been like VELCRO in my area.so I"M LOVIN IT.

  • 67baja

Posted January 21, 2007 - 08:09 AM

#28

I'd try that throttle cam kit that Splatt mentioned. I read an article in one of the mags that said the slower cam really made the 450s more rideable with much better throttle control.

  • SPLATT

Posted January 21, 2007 - 11:22 AM

#29

I'd try that throttle cam kit that Splatt mentioned. I read an article in one of the mags that said the slower cam really made the 450s more rideable with much better throttle control.


I went with it because i ride in some really slick conditions and it helped out a lot. It doesn't take away any power it just opens the throttle slower so it makes it more controllable. It may be a little spendy at about $100 but if it can help make your riding experience more enjoyable it's well worth it.

Steve

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • SXP

Posted January 21, 2007 - 11:35 AM

#30

More horse power = Less handeling

Any one with woods experience will tell you that.
You must have learned something becouse you got rid of your MX bike and bought a WR for woods riding. Then you made the mistake of making it more like an MX bike.
I know a guy who is an amazing rider and he used to ride a tricked out XR 250. It was so easy to go fast in the tight stuff with this bike. It was funny when he would smoke young guys on their big bore 4 stroke MX bikes. I love watching guys who buy the wrong bike for tight trails and end up looking like a monkey humping a football.They are wore out at the end of the day and can't figure out why they are so tired.


Isn't that the truth :lol:

I know I'll get flamed for this but, what the hell.


If you get flamed, then the flamer is an :crazy:

I don't know why I even come here anymore.


'Cause you have that Dirt Biker itch in your blood and can't resist scratching that itch. I didn't have to tell you that, did I?:confused:

  • moab39

Posted January 21, 2007 - 02:19 PM

#31

set your sag , You will be suprised at what a difference this can make.

  • bullybull9

Posted January 22, 2007 - 05:19 AM

#32

your the second one who told me about the sag ,, the only reason I jetted the carb in the first place was ,, the bike was to lean,, everything else was fine.

  • kskyles

Posted January 22, 2007 - 08:09 AM

#33

Hey bullybull-

i bought my WR from a guy in california that rode it in the woods at high elevation.

i ride it here in the arizona desert. i kept the his old dunlop woods tire on there (because i'm cheap) and it spun like mad. After i shredded it on the rocks and hard stuff out here, i put a desert tire on it, and it spins far less and gets a lot better traction.

do you have the appropriate tire for your riding conditions? i know it is a simple thing, but it made a difference for me.

  • jandmsuburban7

Posted January 25, 2007 - 10:57 AM

#34

What exhaust do you have and how much do you want for it. I may be a buyer. Cant get enough power!! Jason

  • mudhog735

Posted January 26, 2007 - 01:53 PM

#35

drop the forks 5-8 mm set the sag @ 3.5 in to 3.75 learn to roll the throttle on, and have fun with it!

  • dangermouse650

Posted January 26, 2007 - 02:56 PM

#36

wouldn't that be nice, too much power!!!!!!!!!!
need to work on that right wrist & suspension i think, tyres?

  • griffithds

Posted January 27, 2007 - 05:02 PM

#37

The best thing I did to my over built tire spinning monster was to change the sprockets to 14/48. I tried 50, 51, 52, 53 rears with either a 13 or 14 fronts and found I could get much better lap times dropping the rear down to the 48. It all has to do with traction. The zippier I tried to make the bike perform, the squirrellier it got and the slower it would accelerate, (tire spin). Now my bike pulls strong, hard, and long!

  • oldbones

Posted January 27, 2007 - 06:25 PM

#38

Ok. First things first.

1. Tire pressure, make sure you are running the appropriate pressure (not what is says on the side of the tire). I can immediately tell if I get on a bike with 15 psi or higher in either tire, and I hate it.

2. Tire condition. Is it old, rounded or torn off knobs? New ones are not all that expensive.

3. Correct tire for conditions and terrain? The tire that works good in my riding area may be downright crappy in yours.

4. Suspension set up correctly? Start with sag, set it before you ride that bike the first time, then check it after your first couple rides as things break in. Read an article on suspension tuning. You got clickers everywhere, and for a reason!

5. As far as bike performance, I think about the single best mod for the tight stuff is a Rekluse clutch. You will end up riding a gear higher cause you're not worrying about stalling the bike. You'll get better traction. It will engage and disengage smoother and more intuitively than you can. It is the shiznit! Also, if your bike has more power than you are used to, it acts as a bit of a flywheel weight, making the power a little easier to control.

I can't imagine trying to make my bike make less power so I would like it more. That's a completely foriegn concept to me! Not because I'm so good that I can use all that power, or so fast that I NEED all that power, but I sure do LIKE IT!

  • bullybull9

Posted January 28, 2007 - 02:56 PM

#39

well I just changed the needle from blue 3rd to red 4th but its too cold ,, the ground it like concreet ,, but it was sugjested to me to change the front sprocket.




 
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