Oil info. I thought this was interesting..


19 replies to this topic
  • motopsycho650

Posted January 13, 2007 - 05:55 PM

#1

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

I thought this was pretty interesting. I was consitering trying out Lucas Motorcycle oil in my 650R, but NOT after reading this PDF.

I might be changing oil brands. These graphs represent the effect of shearing action. Honda HP is not very good in these.
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  • BRPXL600R

Posted January 13, 2007 - 05:57 PM

#2

I've tried many oils on the market and I prefer Castrol Actevo for my bikes and Castrol Sythetic for my cars. Royal purple is another good oil for cars.

  • motopsycho650

Posted January 13, 2007 - 06:35 PM

#3

I've tried many oils on the market and I prefer Castrol Actevo for my bikes and Castrol Sythetic for my cars. Royal purple is another good oil for cars.


This report claims royal purple for motorcycles is crap, and castrol is so-so. Take this report as it is, but it has a notarized page at the end.

  • frankstr

Posted January 13, 2007 - 06:35 PM

#4

I've used Torco oil in all my bikes I've ever rode and raced, street and dirt over the last 35 years.:lol: Never a oil related problem.

:confused: :crazy:

  • bork

Posted January 13, 2007 - 08:54 PM

#5

I had a bad experiance with my 2 smoke in early 80's & sent parts to Amsoil, but of course, do you think they would admit to their failure in lube. This is when 100:1 ratio was being boasted by Amsoil. Sorry, I guess I'm just stuborn!

  • cleonard

Posted January 13, 2007 - 11:02 PM

#6

First let me guess, you sell Amsoil...

However, the graphs about reflect my experience. Most oils do drop in viscosity after being abused by motorcycle transmissions. I would take those graphs with a grain of salt though. Amsoil made them, so it's no wonder that it tests really well. I'm sure it doesn't work as good as shown in that graph.

The don't show the Rotella or Delo there do they. Want to know why? They don't drop viscosity much. I'm really amazed at the lack of a drop in the viscosity when I change my Rotella. It's like it doesn't drop in viscosity at all. Kind of like that graph shows for Amsoil.

I'm not saying that Amsoil synthetic is crap, or that the heavy duty diesel oils are the best. Amsoil synthetic is good stuff. However, that graph only has dino(Group III syn) type oils vs real synthetic Amsoil. Other motorcycle true synthetics work just as well. These are refered to a Group IV and group V. If you want the best, a 100% ester formulation, group V, is probably the best. I'm just not willing to pay >$10/quart foe them.

  • motopsycho650

Posted January 14, 2007 - 06:17 AM

#7

nope, I don't sell AMS oil. Actually I used to use Honda Pro (which failed the shearing test), then I've been trying Valvoline, (apparently a middle-of-the-road oil).

Like I said before, take this information how ever you want. AMS were the one's who had the test done, and it is suspisious that their oil won. But, there is a notorized letter at the end claiming the accuracy of the results.

Benifit/cost comparison, I think valvoline is a pretty damn good oil for it's price. 1/3 of the price of the oils that beat it out. I didn't like valvoline's results when it came to the foaming, evaporation, oxidation, and rust prevention tests.

I'm not trying to twist anyone's arm here, just look over the info, and make your own desicion about your oil.

  • motopsycho650

Posted January 14, 2007 - 06:45 AM

#8

I didn't even think of Rotella-T. I know that's a very good oil for desel's, but I'm not sure I trust it for my motorcycle. Rotella is made by Shell, and they offer some good looking 4-stroke motorcycle oils. I may give them a try if the price isn't too high.

As often as I change my oil, I'm sure it's not a big deal to go with something a bit cheaper.

  • oldKTMer

Posted January 14, 2007 - 05:25 PM

#9

I have done a fair amount of research on motor oils over the years, it seems whoever pays for the research has the best oil in most cases...
I have run Castrol in all of my bikes for 30+ years with no problems, GTX in 4 strokes, Castrol 2 cycle in my 2 smokes, recently switched to Act-Evo in my XR650L, too early to tell how it will hold up.
I had a FJ1200 that the PO was running Castrol Syntec in, he said it needed a clutch (it chattered badly). I changed the oil using GTX, clutch was fine in 50 miles.
I had a Yamaha RT360 that the local dealer convinced me to run Amsoil synthetic 2 stroke oil in, bottom end disintegrated after 2 or 3 tanks. I sent the motor to Amsoil via my dealer, they said (after 6 months waiting) "there was dirt in the motor, sorry about your luck". From what I could see the dirt was metal dust from the crank and bearings, no signs of any oil residue though.
I have worked as a mechanic since 1974 and have used almost every brand out there in customer vehicles, some good, some not so good. The most important thing I believe is keep it clean, change oil frequently no matter what brand. I have seen less than good results from using Amsoil in several vehicles, very impressed with Mobil 1 in auto use. For what it is worth, I will continue to use Castrol in my vehicles, GTX in my truck, Act-Evo (we'll see how it works out) or GTX in my bikes.

  • XR4DEZ

Posted January 14, 2007 - 06:07 PM

#10

How long is a cycle of KO shearing.

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  • ktmone

Posted January 14, 2007 - 06:44 PM

#11

Good graph but where's the REDLINE?

  • loufish

Posted January 15, 2007 - 11:16 AM

#12

Good graph but where's the REDLINE?


hey...you stole my post...:lol:

I'm a big Redline fan, and know it perorms very well.
I've had guys come to work with synthetic oils and additives to sell and use the test machine with a rotating "Main bearing journal" and a stationary roller bearing held againest it in a cup of eng oil. There is a arm that puts pressure on the stationary bearing and weights are placed on it to measure the "load" requieried to scar the bearing in different cups of oil.
After he tests the oil the shop is using(and shows us the wear mark on the bearing) he loads a new bearing, in his oil and repeats the test, adding more weight to the arm to show just how well his oil performs...
After he's all done(and so proud of his oil...) I ask him if I could run some Redline eng oil...His smile melts away as he back pedals about it wouldn't be a fair test because Redline cost so much,and runs this and that additive...In the end he admits to me that Redline will pass his little test with flying colors.

Over the 19 years at my previous job, this little dog and pony show has been done twice, different guys and oils, but both times the mention of running Redline up against his oil met with same results...

  • Dirtboy52

Posted January 16, 2007 - 02:11 PM

#13

I also ran Castrol GTX in all my bikes until I got my CRFX and the manual says I can't use anything with the "Energy Saving" stamp around the certification ring. So now I use the HP4. I guess that restriction is only for the clutch oil right? Is there a castrol I can use on both sides of the bike?

  • oldKTMer

Posted January 17, 2007 - 09:35 PM

#14

Both sides of the bike???? not sure what you meant there.
Castrol Act-Evo is a petro/synthetic blend designed for 4-stroke bikes with wet clutches. I just changed my XR650L to it 100 miles ago, it has been too cold to ride lately. I am kind of anxious to see how it works out.

  • cleonard

Posted January 17, 2007 - 11:53 PM

#15

Both sides of the bike???? not sure what you meant there.
Castrol Act-Evo is a petro/synthetic blend designed for 4-stroke bikes with wet clutches. I just changed my XR650L to it 100 miles ago, it has been too cold to ride lately. I am kind of anxious to see how it works out.


Some of the newer 4 strokes, like the honda 450's have two separate oil systems. One for the engine and another for the transmission.

  • bork

Posted January 18, 2007 - 05:26 AM

#16

hey...you stole my post...:confused:

I'm a big Redline fan, and know it perorms very well.
I've had guys come to work with synthetic oils and additives to sell and use the test machine with a rotating "Main bearing journal" and a stationary roller bearing held againest it in a cup of eng oil. There is a arm that puts pressure on the stationary bearing and weights are placed on it to measure the "load" requieried to scar the bearing in different cups of oil.
After he tests the oil the shop is using(and shows us the wear mark on the bearing) he loads a new bearing, in his oil and repeats the test, adding more weight to the arm to show just how well his oil performs...
After he's all done(and so proud of his oil...) I ask him if I could run some Redline eng oil...His smile melts away as he back pedals about it wouldn't be a fair test because Redline cost so much,and runs this and that additive...In the end he admits to me that Redline will pass his little test with flying colors.

Over the 19 years at my previous job, this little dog and pony show has been done twice, different guys and oils, but both times the mention of running Redline up against his oil met with same results...


Hehehehe, I've seen those test. Maybe the salesman should start selling Redline.:lol: I've never noticed the product, how much does it cost? Whos the manufacturer? & where? Maybe I should google myself. nah, then there would be less forum here.

  • steed2

Posted January 18, 2007 - 05:42 AM

#17

my personal opinion, is the amount u change the oil, is more important than its quality {to an extent}. I always run hp4 and never had a problem. Iprobably change the oil and filter though , every 300 miles at the most . Its funny that amsoil looks so perpect in those charts ......go figure ehh.......look at the big picture.??? where did those charts come from .....let me guess amsoil. lol Go with HP4 its cheap and seems to be working fine.
look at it this way if u own a crf450 u are told to change the oil BEFORE it discoulorates???? so doesnt really matter if u run 100 dollar oil or 5 ollar oil just change it alot. regular maitenance is the key here

  • bork

Posted January 18, 2007 - 01:05 PM

#18

my personal opinion, is the amount u change the oil, is more important than its quality {to an extent}. I always run hp4 and never had a problem. Iprobably change the oil and filter though , every 300 miles at the most . Its funny that amsoil looks so perpect in those charts ......go figure ehh.......look at the big picture.??? where did those charts come from .....let me guess amsoil. lol Go with HP4 its cheap and seems to be working fine.
look at it this way if u own a crf450 u are told to change the oil BEFORE it discoulorates???? so doesnt really matter if u run 100 dollar oil or 5 ollar oil just change it alot. regular maitenance is the key here


AGREED, steed2!

  • roadrunner81

Posted January 18, 2007 - 03:25 PM

#19

I have a hard time dealing with the amount of people that run automotive oil in there bikes, especially bikes that share engine and tranny oil such as my BRP. New energy saving oils are really designed to decrease emissions, they removed the heavy metals in the oil that would heal a flat tappet cam which is ok considering most cars by 1992 came with roller lifters. This happened as a result of GM and Ford motor co asking oil companys to do so. Automotive race oils and motor cycle oils still have these critical ingredients to allow your cams and roller bearings to last.

Personally I run AMS oil motorcycle or golden spectro full syn., when I tore my motor down to hop it up I swear I could have sold my old piston to you as a new one.

  • steed2

Posted January 19, 2007 - 05:37 AM

#20

its got nothing to do with "the oil putting metal back on the camshaft or rocker????. that is completely wrong .Energy saving basically means the oil is made with a bit of molybedulum. Basically this stuff sticks to engine parts and when cold the film left on the engine parts is thicker during cold start ups. To give u and idea what this stuff is ....80w90 gear oil is full of it...thats what smell and why it sticks so well. Problem is gues what molybedulum does to paper clutch packs??? That right it impregnates them and they smoke. So on a crf450r you can run what ever oil u want in your ENGINE ...but on the steed i wouldnt recommend it {although i know guys that do and it seems to be working fine probably due to the low amount of moly it the oil} HP4 ...it was designed for the bike thats what i would be using ...think about for the amount u spend on you expensive oil u could change the hp4 4 times more and still be the same price???? i bet thats better for the engine than overrated oil.....my 2 cents





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