What do you guys think about using Liquid Ice


37 replies to this topic
  • waynus

Posted January 13, 2007 - 02:40 PM

#21

when mine overheats, i shut her off and i can hear it boiling in the engine, definately not just expansion for me.............. Maybe i should get the fan upgrade hooked up to a temp switch


Sorry if I'm insistent, but how do you know that it's overheating before you turn it off? A switched off motor will have localised hot spots and because the coolant is no longer circulating, those hot spots turn the coolant into "steam" which then becomes high pressure causing the radiator to overflow or boil over. So yes, a fan is definitely the way to go so that you can cool the coolant down whilst still circulating it with the motor going. My mind is made up. I just need to get a round tuit

  • foxomatica

Posted January 13, 2007 - 03:44 PM

#22

Thanks for all the opinions guys, but is any of this stuff available in canada


I got my "Ice" from my dealer in Vancouver. Check with yours.

  • Fullbore4

Posted January 14, 2007 - 07:09 AM

#23

Here is an article written by an engine ice employee so take it for what its worth but read the whole thing because they talk about cleaning the radiator at the end.

http://www.gadgetjq....replacement.htm

Here's a more unbiased article comparing ethylene and propylene. Ethylene has better heat transfer.

http://www.engineeri...ycol-d_904.html

  • Jwar1r1t3

Posted January 14, 2007 - 07:55 AM

#24

Has anyone tried installing a fan on thier bike? If so I would be interested in seeing exactly what they purchased and how they installed it.

  • ncmountainman

Posted January 14, 2007 - 07:58 AM

#25

Run Evans coolant and two2cool and you will never have over heating problems again.


:lol: :confused: i've been running this combo for 2 yrs now and have NEVER overheated since. i couldn't keep anything in it before Evans NPG-R,this year we did some HS in august where the temps were 98'f high humidity,just plain horribly tight courses(1st gear crawling over rocks and logs between trees etc) i overheated but the bike didn't. the NPG-R is the stuff for bikes the NPG is a little too thick,NPG-R doesn't "freeze" but below about 20'f it starts to gel but will never freeze solid (who the heck rides at 20' besides 'frostbite' anyways?) it has a boiling point of 400'f but that doesn't mean your temps are gonna go that high(if they do something is drastically wrong) what it does is stop gas pockets(steam) from forming against the cylinder in the water jackets,this is called molar cavitation (or sumthin like that) this cavitation seperates the coolant from the waterjacket allowing much less heat transfer(it all goes downhill from there with waterbased coolants).the NPG-R stops this because it contains NO water. it will run about 10' hotter on average ,because the ethylene glycol has less heat transfer than water but when it matters it doesn't get much hotter. another misconception is that in an emergency you cannot add water to it. after speaking with a Evans engineer you can absolutely add water but it compromises the NPG-R and it must be flushed out again with the special flush($25 gallon) the NPG-R is $30/gal straight from Evans (which is enough for twice +) it lasts all season,has superior lubricity for pump/seals (has no water) i can't find nuthin' bad to say about it. i've tried everything else under the sun including engine ice(which actually boiled quicker for me than 50/50,i think it works better for MX)

  • waynus

Posted January 14, 2007 - 12:16 PM

#26

NCMountainman, good to get your input. As I understand it, Evans is like 100% propylene glycol with no water added. This to my way of thinking is similar to running say a sewing machine oil in your radiator. It's never going to boil but the temps will be elevated. Theoretically you could leave your motor idling til it reached 150 degrees C (whats that, about 280 degrees F?).
The question is, will this elevated temp do the motor any harm. Will the piston clearances close up, will bearings loosen in the alloy, will the alloy expand so much as to loosen bolts, is there sufficient cooling in the valve area and of course is there preignition?
If the higher temp is not going to affect any of these things, then it's probably a good thing. :lol:

  • ncmountainman

Posted January 14, 2007 - 01:58 PM

#27

NCMountainman, good to get your input. As I understand it, Evans is like 100% propylene glycol with no water added. This to my way of thinking is similar to running say a sewing machine oil in your radiator. It's never going to boil but the temps will be elevated. Theoretically you could leave your motor idling til it reached 150 degrees C (whats that, about 280 degrees F?).
The question is, will this elevated temp do the motor any harm. Will the piston clearances close up, will bearings loosen in the alloy, will the alloy expand so much as to loosen bolts, is there sufficient cooling in the valve area and of course is there preignition?
If the higher temp is not going to affect any of these things, then it's probably a good thing. :lol:


the NPG is 100% propylene glycol (minus the additive pkg) the NPG-R is 100%ethylene glycol (minus additives) the NPG-R is much thinner and performs better in a small system. yes it will run a little hotter overall (about 10'f) because of the efficiency factor being less that of water,but it never fluctuates... i mean like no matter how hot the ambient temp is or how slow the going gets it doesn't fluctuate much,my oil temps stay at a steady 220-230'f(tested with a dig temp meter attached to the oil drain in the motor). the ? should be is how hot are the bikes getting when they're puking out everything else? my old WR still runs NPG-R valves in spec after one adjustment(it probly has 4k miles on it by now) my yz has had nothing else but NPG-R in it and i've not had to adjust valves yet and it has almost 2k on it and is raced:excuseme:

  • TheCure

Posted January 15, 2007 - 07:31 AM

#28

http://www.thumperta...ght=Coolant mix

I found this thread and some good information in it.

I used that 80/20 coolant mix (80 DI water and 20% PG coolant) +a dash of Water Wetter and its very effective. Much cheaper than the pre-mixes also.

  • R_Little

Posted January 15, 2007 - 12:00 PM

#29

When I say overheat I mean it boils enough out coolant to fill the overflow bottle. I let it cool and transfer the coolant back with a pop bottle or whatever is handy. These bikes need airflow for the rads to able to do their job and when I say tight woods I mean no place to get moving more than a few MPH and even then only for a few feet at a time. I think the fan is the way to go, probably with a temp switch to activate it.


Make sure your radiator cap is holding pressure!

It will boil early and often w/o a working cap.

It my be why your rad is not "reclaiming" the boiled out coolant too.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • waynus

Posted January 15, 2007 - 12:11 PM

#30

Ncmountainman
You make a good point re what's happening when the radiator is pukin'.
The Evans site is an interesting read but I couldn't find mention of NPG-R. Do you mean NPG+ , a mixture of ethylene and propylene?

  • Fullbore4

Posted January 15, 2007 - 01:04 PM

#31

After all, I think I will use 70% EG Honda mix, 30% distilled water and a tad of Water Wetter but I am concerned about lubrication. What do you guys think would work to add for lubrication?

  • ncmountainman

Posted January 15, 2007 - 01:07 PM

#32

Ncmountainman
You make a good point re what's happening when the radiator is pukin'.
The Evans site is an interesting read but I couldn't find mention of NPG-R. Do you mean NPG+ , a mixture of ethylene and propylene?


no NPG-R (100% ethylene glycol) i just bought a new gallon couple wks ago. ordered NPG-R and thats what i got:excuseme:

  • beasly

Posted January 15, 2007 - 04:45 PM

#33

Ncmountainman
You make a good point re what's happening when the radiator is pukin'.
The Evans site is an interesting read but I couldn't find mention of NPG-R. Do you mean NPG+ , a mixture of ethylene and propylene?


NPG-R is listed on this page. Thanks for mentioning it mountainman, looks promising.

  • waynus

Posted January 16, 2007 - 01:11 AM

#34

no NPG-R (100% ethylene glycol) i just bought a new gallon couple wks ago. ordered NPG-R and thats what i got:excuseme:


Thanks ncmountainman. After more reading, I'm about 95% convinced that it's good stuff. I'd like to hear of more bikers that have tried it so I might do a search. :lol:

  • waynus

Posted January 16, 2007 - 01:12 AM

#35

NPG-R is listed on this page. Thanks for mentioning it mountainman, looks promising.


Ta for the link :lol:

  • smar1477

Posted January 16, 2007 - 01:21 AM

#36

hard to tell for sure on a bike if it works. i felt it did on my vette though saw a drop in temperature of about10-15degrees. why not do botht the fans and ice????????? make sure its fixed

  • Windseeker

Posted January 16, 2007 - 03:22 AM

#37

We ride in dense forests and overheating is a problem, especially for new riders who tend to overrev ang go slower. One of the bikes in our group has a KTM fan, and another has a Suzuki (i think) DRZ fan (the street version). Both come with a thermal switch that you need to drill and screw into the radiator. Works perfect. We often have sounds of fans working on some bikes and boiling sounds and coolant smell whenever we stop and kill engines in the woods. The fans are really expensive (USD 200-300 once in Russia) but they work. We tried cheap tricks installing stronger PC fans - but they somehow fail to create effective air flow.
This year some guys buying their new WR07 ordered new fans to be installed on the bikes right in the shop.

  • SXP

Posted January 16, 2007 - 11:20 AM

#38

We ride in dense forests and overheating is a problem, especially for new riders who tend to overrev ang go slower. One of the bikes in our group has a KTM fan, and another has a Suzuki (i think) DRZ fan (the street version). Both come with a thermal switch that you need to drill and screw into the radiator. Works perfect. We often have sounds of fans working on some bikes and boiling sounds and coolant smell whenever we stop and kill engines in the woods. The fans are really expensive (USD 200-300 once in Russia) but they work. We tried cheap tricks installing stronger PC fans - but they somehow fail to create effective air flow.
This year some guys buying their new WR07 ordered new fans to be installed on the bikes right in the shop.



A Russian member - cool:thumbsup: and welcome!

I'm curious how much you paid (in USD) for your WR in Russia.

BTW, your English is pretty much flawless - have you spent time overseas?




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.