Stripped Magnetic Drain Plug and Frame! WTF! and How To Fix?

30 replies to this topic
  • martinfan30

Posted July 19, 2007 - 08:47 AM


FYI: those magnetic drain bolts don't do shit.

i agree. also i have seen the magnets come off of the plug on some auto applications. no thanks. :thumbsdn:

  • kellismechanic

Posted July 19, 2007 - 02:54 PM


Run the stock plugs, they are made to work, never a problem.:bonk:

  • martinfan30

Posted July 19, 2007 - 08:03 PM


there is a reason honda didnt put magnets in the drain plugs!:busted:

  • honcho

Posted July 20, 2007 - 03:21 PM


just a quick addition... somebody said to get a steel plug and that the magnet won't seperate... this applies only to mild steel, and a very strong magnet. if the plug is stainless, then the magnet will stick the same as it would to aluminum... apparently not well.

  • coreygauthier

Posted November 01, 2009 - 12:52 PM


I just finished repairing the stripped out thread on my frame. Like many others i was using the XRs only magnetic plug. When i first installed it i made the mistake of torquing to the service manual spec.(i never reached the spec because i knew i was pulling the threads and i stopped.) As a result i distorted the thread on the plug not knowing it at the time. At my next oil change i noticed the threads pulling out and figured it was was just a result of overtorquing. I cleaned the threads in the frame and re-used the plug. Every time i did an oil change i would tighten the plug by hand only as much as i thought i could get away with knowing eventually i would have to fix it. That day was today.

I drilled the hole out with a 21/64 drill bit and used an M8x1.25 heli coil. I am curently using just a straight shouldered bolt with the sealing washer. The heli coil worked very well. XRs smart design will allow the oil screen to capture the harmfull particles from the repair. I would recommend flushing some of the debris out actually with the drain plugs removed. If the debris stays in the screen between intervals the screen may wear through. :smirk:

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  • pdxthumper

Posted November 03, 2009 - 01:29 PM


Or you can just make your own using the stock plugs, I used a d36 from K&J Magnetics they are 0.40 each, and insanely strong. I drilled the end of the plugs put in a little JB weld in the very bottom of the hole, inserted the magnet. Done. Enen without the JB weld, I don't think I could remove the magnet once it was in the bolt. No worries about it comming out.

  • akarob

Posted November 03, 2009 - 03:23 PM


Ok, the magnet conversation should end here. :smirk: Please, don't read an attitude into this - I'm just throwing this out there.

1st - those little magnets don't do anything. Inside the left cover, is the biggest F'n magnet you've ever seen. It's called your alternator rotor. It's laughable to think that a little chip of a magnet will pick up anything this monster doesn't. It weighs like 10 LBS!

2nd - If you MUST have another magnet, just put it on the OUTSIDE of the bolt. It'll stick right onto the steel bolt head and won't fall off - the whole bolt becomes magnetized. (I find the Sonicare toothbrushes have some nice magnets in the disposable head.) I did it for a while like that until I realized that I was just wasting my time.

Good luck with the fixing of your threads. Pics are good too.

Edited by akarob, November 03, 2009 - 06:04 PM.

  • keithgoodrich

Posted February 01, 2010 - 07:32 PM


I stripped out my plug on my 09 crf 450. I think the washer got bound up on the case. it wasn't even hard to tighten. wierd! I think i will try to run a tap in it. If that doesnt work i will go to the next size up bolt. :ride:

  • tgstoken

Posted February 02, 2010 - 09:05 AM


Here's the best fix for a stripped drain plug. I have done this and they work great. You just need one of these piggyback, oversize self tapping bolts. Here's a link http://www.cgenterpr...size_repair.htm

  • bongodave

Posted February 03, 2010 - 10:18 AM


I learned a valuable lesson long ago, working on the NX 650. The crank case hole cover was made of magnesium, and the first time I tried to get it off, I stripped it out. It was just put there too tight at the factory.

Ordered another cover, and by completely destroying the old one, finally got it out. A mechanic friend of mine reminded me that such pieces are tight enough if they don't fall out or leak.

If you're using the aluminum bolts, don't torque them down too much. Get them tight, and if they weep a little oil after you ride it, snug them down just a tick more.

They're just there to plug a hole, not hold anything together. Cranking them too tight will strip the threads or break them.

  • rider58

Posted February 03, 2010 - 03:13 PM


like he said they don't hold anything together, also don't torque them ,just FYI that torque spec is for a new clean motor and plug. Yours is oiled and lubed so that blows the torque spec out the window. Dry verses lubed. I fixed a few with heli-coils and they work fine. drill out, tap for heli, clean threads (carb cleaner), loct-tite ,dry over nite, drian plug in, add oil, and ride. The over nite dry time works with no problems because it's late evening usally when you do your oil change and before going riding in the morning.

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