117 replies to this topic

[LeasingGuy TT Member]

How about adding spoke sizes for lacing up the rear rim. Long spokes on the inside/ short spokes on the outside

[zrexrob TT Newbie]

Is there a "how to" on changing the clutch on a crf450? I searched but connot find one.

[chrissa TT Silver Member]

Even though this applies to just about EVERY make of bike on this forum, we get this question constantly:

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How do I set the fuel screw and how do I pick the right pilot jet???  

The short answer:
http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=327405

The long answer:
http://www.thumperfa.../jetting.htm#PJ

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And maybe we can say something about hard to start bikes.  Like:

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Suddenly my bike is super hard to start when cold.  I gotta push start it!  What's going on???

Has it been a while since you started the bike?  Try draining the carburetor (that tiny amount of gas can go bad in two weeks and get condensation in it; bikes won't start with that crap in there).

Have you checked your valve clearance lately???

Is your spark plug REAL old?  Try a new one.  Four stroke spark plugs will last a long time, but they do slowly degrade, making it more difficult to start a cold bike.

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My bike idles great, but when I'm moving at a good pace, the engine sputters and suddenly cuts out!  Help!!!  

Are you running an after market flywheel like a heavier Trail Tech flywheel?  Did you know that Trail Tech sells two versions of their flywheel?  One with regular stock strength magnets, and one with stronger heavy duty magnets.  The heavy duty magnets MUST be used with a custom rewound stator.  The magnets are WAY too strong for a stock stator and generate too much voltage at higher RPM.  That'll overpower the CDI and it will shut down.  Contact Trail Tech directly.  They may be able to switch flywheels with you.

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My bike will only idle when the choke is on.  I push the choke lever in, and it dies!!  

Your bike it warn enough, right?  And it only takes at MOST 5 minutes to warm up with the choke on.  Don't let it idle at a standstill longer than that, otherwise your bike will start to overheat!

Is the pilot jet plugged up?  Pull it out and clean it.  You'll drain the carb to do this which is a good idea.  If there's any water in there, even a tiny drop of water will plug a pilot jet.

Did you set the fuel screw and pilot jet properly, along with the idle?  See above!

[matej TT Newbie]

Hi!

I´m new at this site, so I apologize if an answer to my question has already been published at this site.

My question is:

I would like to change the valves (ex & in) in my Honda CRF450r (model year 2005) and would like to build in the valves of an ATV TRX450R (model year 2005).
I would like to know if I can do this and if anybody has ever done this before and how does the bike work after it.
Please help!

thx

[Dingus TT Bronze Member]

If anybody needs to keep their 'R' quiet, the 'X' muffler bolts right on if you enlarge the hole in the rear mounting tab on the muffler by about 1/4 inch.  Turned my 2006R into a stealth fighter!

For the power mongers concerned about power loss: my brother and I each bought the same bike on the same day.  I put the X muffler on mine - he left his stock.  Drag racing he beats me by only about 2 bike lengths in 300 yards.  Switched riders with same result.  Not a bad trade off considering complaining neighbors can equal 100% power loss!!!!!  

[jones730 TT Newbie]

I have a '07 crf 450 at about 40 hours it started getting really hard to kick over.  I took the de-compression shaft out and found the shaft was bent.  After putting in new one worked great for one ride now it is doing the same thing. Any ideas?

[kicker308 TT Bronze Member]

I got a pdf shop manual for $3 on ebay. Nice

[Ripping Trends TT Member]

Anyone notice their 450 using a lot of engine oil?  Just had my motor rebuilt and seams to use oil?  Any suggestions?

[sonobob Get Help Now]

Ripping Trends said:

Anyone notice their 450 using a lot of engine oil?  Just had my motor rebuilt and seams to use oil?  Any suggestions?

You might check the level of the tranny fluid...

[Ripping Trends TT Member]

Tranny always full, I though the two were seperate?  Only the crank side is using oil?

[jimbo450 TT Bronze Member]

Grip application: Pro Taper grip glue is the best Ive found so far. Dries in about 30 seconds. Apply some to the bars then a ring around the inside of the grip and your gonna need a jackhammer to get them off.

[JohnnyAirtime Get Help Now]

jimbo450 said:

Grip application: Pro Taper grip glue is the best Ive found so far. Dries in about 30 seconds. Apply some to the bars then a ring around the inside of the grip and your gonna need a jackhammer to get them off.

Instead, just use ODI "lock on" grips.  No glue needed, grips can be removed and put back on within a couple minutes.  No slip, no mess!!

[Sxdude TT Platinum Member]

First time installing graphics- tips?

[YamiBoy TT Member]

Shawn_Mc said:

Q:
Can I install an O-ring or X-ring chain on my 450R? I have heard that the wider links will rub the cases.  

A:
A spacer is available from Fastway that goes between the countershaft sprocket and case that moves the sprocket outboard.On a 2002-2004 simply install the spacer behind the sprocket and torque the countershaft bolt. On the 2005-2007 the same retaining bolt was used but a drive collar and spring washer was used instead of the single washer on the previous years. When using the necessary Fastway spacer the spring washer can become over compressed and shatter. There are two solutions. The most simple is to order the OEM washer for the 2002-2004 years and use it in the place of the drive sprocket collar and spring washer. Part# 90501-KA3-741 for the 2002-2004 washer. The other solution is to place a washer on the front side of the sprocket the approximate thickness of the Fastway spacer positioned on the back of the sprocket to keep from over compressing the spring washer and torque the contershaft bolt. OR...

For spacing the countershaft sprocket when using O/X-Ring chains, instead of the Fastway spacer you can use a "Series 100" automotive valve spring shim, the inner diameter is a perfect fit, ask for 0.03 or 0.04 thickness (I think the Fastway is 0.04). Available at most any automotive machine shop for about 25 cents. I'm not sure who on here originally suggested this (ThrottleJockey maybe?) but it works perfectly and you don't have to wait for it to come in the mail.(Courtesey Matte)

I had this problem, posted, and got this response..."flip the countershaft sprocket over and this will give you 2mm of space"
By the way it is a 2002. If this helps give credit to Chills. The link to the post is here http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=491738

If you don't sugest doing this, let me know asap! heh

[sonobob Get Help Now]

YamiBoy said:

I had this problem, posted, and got this response..."flip the countershaft sprocket over and this will give you 2mm of space"
By the way it is a 2002. If this helps give credit to Chills. The link to the post is here http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=491738

If you don't sugest doing this, let me know asap! heh

Not that I'm disagreeing, but for $2-3, you can pick up the Fastway c/s sprocket spacer and be done with the issue.

[JohnnyAirtime Get Help Now]

sonobob said:

Not that I'm disagreeing, but for $2-3, you can pick up the Fastway c/s sprocket spacer and be done with the issue.

Or buy the correct chain and you don't have any worries.  

The RK GXW520 Gold is a slim XW ring chain...  and it looks as good as it works!  No spacers needed. No flipping the sprocket (so it's misaligned)...etc

[JohnnyAirtime Get Help Now]

Sxdude said:

First time installing graphics- tips?

PATIENCE!  first and foremost.

A little bit of heat (like a heat gun) for trouble areas.  Or use an "applicator kit" offered by most graphic companies.  (I personally don't like the applicator kit as I don't have patience) haha

[sonobob Get Help Now]

johnnyairtime said:

Or buy the correct chain and you don't have any worries.  

The RK GXW520 Gold is a slim XW ring chain...  and it looks as good as it works!  No spacers needed. No flipping the sprocket (so it's misaligned)...etc

Hmmm.  I didn't realize there was a chain other than the T rings that took care of that.  I just ordered a new RK XSO yesterday...oh, well...I already have the spacer anyway.

[NetMXer TT Bronze Member]

The first thing I do is lay the graphics on the plastic with the backing still on and heat it up with a hair dryer. That allows it to take the shape of the plastic before you peel off the backing. Spray some windex on the plastic, peel off the sticker backing, then place it on the plastic. The Windex will allow you to move the graphics around to get the placement correct. Then press the sticker from the center out to push the Windex out and get it to stick.

[Masterlink52 TT Member]

Applicator kits? Windex HUH! I've never used Windex and it may work but I would be concerned about the chemicals in Windex such as dyes and ammonias.

Graphics and decals aren't cheap so you want to make the best of the application process so here are my tips based on my experiences. There is nothing cool and easy about applying graphics and/or decals, especially on curved side panels.  Some recommend spraying water on the application surface others recommend a dry application. I have tried it both ways and wet applications make it easier to pull the decal back off if it becomes misaligned but keep in mind wet applications create another obstacle in terms of insuring that water bubbles are not trapped behind the graphic/decal. Trapped water bubbles are not good because once the decal is adhered there is no place for the water to escape thus as the sun heats the decal it can cause a larger bubble to develop and/or the decal to start coming off. Air and water bubbles can be removed by using a sharp razor blade or craft knife and carefully slicing into the bubble and then rubbing the bubble out. FYI...using hair dryers is common but I also use a 250W heat lamp in a clamp type light fixture, using a heat lamp allows more area to be heated and I've had better success keeping the decal/graphic at a consistent warm temperature (not hot). Always apply to smooth surfaces, decal's don't adhere as well to deeply scratched or rough surfaces, it's better to replace panels and shrouds or at least sand them so that your applying to a clean nonscratched surface. Take the time on new or old plastic to thoroughly clean the adhering surfaces and wash your hands/fingers, dirty finger prints on the adhesive will cause adhesion problems. Dry fit the deal/graphic to see how it fits and use some reference points to help you re-align once you've removed the paper backing. Some people prefer to have the panel or shroud in their lap while working the decal in place, I prefer leaving it mounted to the bike freeing my hands from having the extra inconvenience of hold the plastic and applying the decal. Lastly be very patient and never pull to hard or rip at the decal if you have to pull it back off, work the decal slowly using a semi soft plastic applicator (buy auto body applicators at your local auto parts store) and actually stretch and pull it while rubbing in onto place, if it is marginally off to one side or the other and overhangs the edge don't fold it over the edge as it will only eventually come off, trim away any excess that accidentally may overhang. From my experience newly applied decals don't always look so good but if you have carefully sliced thru and rubbed out air or water bubbles after it has had time to adhere and the sun heats the decal it will shrink and eventually look much nicer. Plan on a some sore fingers and maybe even a blister, no kidding it happens. Hope this info helps. Materlink52