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This will get edited and is a work in progess. How do I set my fuel screw?
http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=327405
Suggestion;Buy a finger screw for the fuel screw adjustment. This is something that can make or break your thumper experience and really isnt a set and forget adjustment. The adjustment can vary half to a full turn from morning to afternoon.
Valve Settings
Seems like there is some opinion here, but it looks like running the closer than the book will extend the valve face by setting the valves into the pockets a tad easier.
.004" on the intakes
.008 on the exhausts
Now the decompressor can do a couple different things here. If you were to run the decompressor at .014 in addition to the .008, youre net is only .022 instead of the recomended .024. You can add the missing .002 to the secondary measurment or simply run it slightly tighter overall. The result will be opening the decompressor just slighty earlier than normal which will reduce the kicking effort just slightly. Guys with High compression pistons may find the bike is less finicky to start.
Engine and Trans oil levels
FAQ:
The stock engine oil capacity on the CRF450R engine is:
670cc with out an oil filter service.
690cc with the filter service.
The transmission level:
Suggested level from Honda is 580cc. Many have found that the kick-starter idler gear squeals at that level because its under oiled. I suggest you run your oil level between 600-700cc. Personally I run 625cc’s. Some have run as much as a full quart in the transmission. Personally I feel this is too much and could cause over heating in the transmission.
Using the check oil hole in the side case for the transmission/clutch can be problematic unless you follow the complete routine which is as follows. Drain, and refill. Start engine. Check the level. If its low, add oil, start engine, then recheck with the check hole. The reason you have to start the engine is because the way the clutch basket distributes the oil throughout the transmission. It’s a hell of a lot easier to just pour a sufficient and measured amount of oil in and be done with it.
Engine Installation into chassis
Courtesy Kelstr
You have to have the swingarm slid back and the shock off and the coil off, ---but you can leave the radiators on ----carb and subframe on ( just loosend up ---i use the subframe as a carb holder ----way less to screw with .
i leave the water pump outlet off, take out both exhaust studs , of course have the shifter and kicker off , leave off the rocker cover, and leave off the countershaft sprocket , and leave of the oil hose wire hanger ,-------then put the motor in from the rt side head first and turn it and it will go .
Fork oil:
The OEM calls for 5wt. Fork oil.
02 outer?
02 inner?
03-05 inner is 195cc
03-05 outer is 412cc Stock. Can be as high as 425cc or low as 350cc
06-07 inner is 195cc
06-07 outer is slightly less since the fork is 8mm shorter, but I cant remember how much (382cc stock?)
Personally Ive had great success using Synthetic ATF in both chambers
Torco RFF is good stuff
Fork oil, Seal and or Spring change procedure:
http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=373271
Shock rebuild/revalve?
http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=390319
What are the BEST brake pads, air filters and clutch plates?
All OEM. At least thats been my experience. Aftermarket stuff can be had cheaper and depending on what your dealing with can be as good at a lessor price.
Noises:
FAQ: My engine is making a knocking or rattling noise only at low RPM.
Ans: With your helmet on, your chain slapping against your swing arm sounds like it is coming from your engine. You just need to tighten your chain.
Complements: Bigrichard
FAQ: Every once in a while my bike squeals like its going to explode right after I start it, what’s wrong?
Ans: See transmission oil level
What fits what:
Plastic
Courtesy of RMXC51
05-06-07 all the same fit
02-03-04 all the same (I think) correct me if Im wrong and I’ll go back and fix it.
The colors are a little different but the stuff bolts on.
Exhaust:
(Needs to be completed)
02 head pipe the same as 03, muffler wont fit later models
03-04:
The mounting points on the engine and subframe are the same,but you have to use either the entire 03 system or the entire 04 system,the head pipe is shorter on the 04 than the 03 and the mid pipe is longer on the 04 than the 03 cheers
Courtesy Wingman111
05-06 fit with small massage
07?
O an X Ring Chain fitment:
Courtesy of Fourstroked
Q:
Can I install an O-ring or X-ring chain on my 450R? I have heard that the wider links will rub the cases.
A:
A spacer is available from Fastway that goes between the countershaft sprocket and case that moves the sprocket outboard.On a 2002-2004 simply install the spacer behind the sprocket and torque the countershaft bolt. On the 2005-2007 the same retaining bolt was used but a drive collar and spring washer was used instead of the single washer on the previous years. When using the necessary Fastway spacer the spring washer can become over compressed and shatter. There are two solutions. The most simple is to order the OEM washer for the 2002-2004 years and use it in the place of the drive sprocket collar and spring washer. Part# 90501-KA3-741 for the 2002-2004 washer. The other solution is to place a washer on the front side of the sprocket the approximate thickness of the Fastway spacer positioned on the back of the sprocket to keep from over compressing the spring washer and torque the contershaft bolt.
OR...For spacing the countershaft sprocket when using O/X-Ring chains, instead of the Fastway spacer you can use a "Series 100" automotive valve spring shim, the inner diameter is a perfect fit, ask for 0.03 or 0.04 thickness (I think the Fastway is 0.04). Available at most any automotive machine shop for about 25 cents. I'm not sure who on here originally suggested this (ThrottleJockey maybe?) but it works perfectly and you don't have to wait for it to come in the mail.(Courtesey Matte)
Tech;
FAQ:
Q:
I just cleaned the carb and now its backfiring, hard to start and glowing the exhaust pipe red hot and backfiring like crazy! What’s going on?
A: Check the vacuum release plate on the front side of the carb slide. The small cutaway goes toward the bottom. You put it back in upside down
Grip applications:
Spray paint
Hair spray
Some use WD-40, personally I cant see how this would work
Renthal Grip Glue, expensive but extremely effective
Contact cement
Golf Club grip tape and acetone: Wrap the bar with friction tape, wet it with acetone, slide the grip on. Its stuck.
Top End FAQ:
Good brands of pistons = JE, CP, Wiseco
Compression ratios
02-03 11.25-1
04-07 12.00-1
Higher compression ratios can be run without a problem usually up to 13.5-1 on pump premium fuel. Generally speaking, your jetting won’t be effected dramatically.
Its good practice to replace the cam chain and tensioner (especially 02-03 model)when replacing the piston.
Rebuild FAQ:
Q:
I put a new piston in it and it seems to run ok, not as strong as I thought it would be, but its really hard to kick over. I checked the valves and they seem fine.
A: Recheck your timing. It sounds like you got the cam timing off by a tooth. Also, recheck your decompressor lash. If you put a higher compression piston in you could close up your decompressor lash and make it easier to kick over.
Setup FAQ:
The OEM clamp offset is 24mm on all models
The 05-07 have the axle offset 2mm further to the rear than 02-04
Recommended Race Sag is typically 105mm but is impacted by rider preference.
Typically free sag is between 10-35mm when correctly sprung for rider weight
Fork and Shock settings and how to get there. MXTech has a version of this too, but it contradicts itself (for me at least).
I took this from his post on the subject.
Courtesy of fourfittythumper
Before I get started know that everyone's settings are different. Even if you're the same skill level, weight, etc. your settings will be unique. So, you can search all you want, but at the end of the day you just need to go to the track and start clicking. Here's a good way to get there.
Here is how I set my clickers on my 2005 CRF450R. I'm novice/intermediate skill level. 190lbs no gear.
Sag:
Set your sag at 100mm. once you have gear on and if it's muddy you'll compress down to 105mm. You can play with this setting but this is a good starting point. You want your sag high enough (105mm+) so that the rear will compress in the turns, but low enough that you won't reduce you rake angle (100mm-). 98mm - 110mm is the general range you want to be in.
Fork Height:
Raise the Fork Tubes up so that the line on the Tubes (about 5mm from the top of the fork) is 5mm above the top of the triple clamps. The LINE should be 5mm up, the top of the Fork Tubes will be about 10mm up total. This will steepen the rake angle and help in the turns, some say it reduces high speed stability, but I didn't notice anything.
Clickers:
It's hard to start with the stock settings and work in and out to find the right settings. Eventually you'll get confused and forget which does what. This is how I found the best settings.
Start with:
Forks
C 12
R12
Shocks
HS 3
LS 11
R10
You'll find that the suspension is too soft, especially the rear. On straight aways if you open it up it will feel like you're going to roll over backward, and under braking the front will dive.
Start clicking the fork C and R in 1 click at a time until the forks feel harsh in the bumps before a turn and the bike pushes in corners. Click the C out until the harshness goes away and click the R out until the bike stops pushing.
The rear is a little more complex to figure out. I settled on HS 2, LS 8 and R 10. If the rear is too stiff you get thrown around coming into bumpy corners and off the face of jumps, if its too soft it will feel like mush under acceleration. I found it worked best when it's just stiff enough to get rid of the mushy feeling,
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