2006 450 oil change


55 replies to this topic
  • King_Air

Posted January 02, 2007 - 01:04 PM

#21

I use bel-ray thumper oil. does anyone else?


I am running Bel-Ray also. I have used it for 2 years, the previous owner used if for a year. Seems to work fine.

  • 224

Posted January 02, 2007 - 05:28 PM

#22

you can run synthetic as long as it does not contain moly. Mixing 50/50 also works well. And it is a pain to change the oil but by doing it often you will help your motor last.

  • rexbond007

Posted January 02, 2007 - 08:09 PM

#23

Well I Work In A Dealership And The Best Oil I
If You Are Trying To Save Some Cash Buy The 1uy-13440-00-00 Or 5h0-13440-00-00 It Is A Washable And You Can Reuse It. I Use The 5ta-13440-00-00 Ant Trough It Away.
Matt


Do you want to put it in lay mans terms we don't no part #'s

  • grayracer513

Posted January 02, 2007 - 08:36 PM

#24

The 5TA-13440-00-00 is the stock disposable "paper" filter. The 1UY-13440-02-00 or 5HO-13440-00-00 are the OEM brass screens from an '02 or earlier model. They can be washed, but as I've mentioned many times before, filter less than half as well as a Scotts stainless element (70-80 microns as compared with 35 microns absolute for the Scotts). They are also delicate enough that Yamaha themselves has never recommended cleaning and reusing them.

The best oil filter you can put in the bike is a Scotts. Buy one once, it's all you will need.

  • WB450

Posted January 03, 2007 - 10:19 AM

#25

Yeah, my dealer said the exact same thing when I asked them about Amsoil. They recommended the Yamalube semi-synthetic.


They told me the same thing "Yamalube is what the factory does all of their R&D with, that's what they recommend" On the fence on weather I'll stay with it.

  • Wyatt

Posted January 03, 2007 - 11:10 AM

#26

Here's another vote for a Scott's stainless filter and Amsoil motorcycle specific synthetic 10w40. I have put a 100 hours on a clutch with this oil. No problems.

  • red7

Posted January 03, 2007 - 11:23 AM

#27

Yeah, I love the Scotts filter and given what I'm reading may try out the Amsoil I had considered awhile back.

  • NM_KDX200

Posted January 03, 2007 - 01:15 PM

#28

Amsoil "Synthetic Motorcycle Oil", product ID MCF, 10w-40. ...Amsoil is at least as good and costs 25% less to me.


Where do you get yours? Do we have an Amsoil dealer here on TT?

  • grayracer513

Posted January 03, 2007 - 02:21 PM

#29

I buy mine direct from Amsoil. I registered at Amsoil.com as a preferred customer, which gives me about a 20% break on all of their products. I just bought 4 pretty good looking two stage foam filters from them for $16 each, for example.

It costs $20/yr, but I save more than that on the first 12 qt. case I buy.

  • Ga426owner

Posted January 03, 2007 - 02:50 PM

#30

They told me the same thing "Yamalube is what the factory does all of their R&D with, that's what they recommend" On the fence on weather I'll stay with it.


it is a yamaha dealer - what do you expect them to say.....:lol:

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  • NM_KDX200

Posted January 03, 2007 - 08:40 PM

#31

I buy mine direct from Amsoil. I registered at Amsoil.com as a preferred customer,


10-4. I used to do that when I ran Amsoil in my ranch trucks. Only thing is that I figured by the time I did the $20 plus shipping, I could get Mobil 1 cheaper at Sam's and that's what I started doing.

I'm applying the $20 and a discount of 20% and I'm still coming up with about $8/qt for the Amsoil. Mobil 1 MXT is $7.50/quart at my local small-town auto parts store (who gives me free advice on my Chevy...) and I paid $13/gallon for Rotella there. I'll probably just stick with local.

Considering I change oil every 5-6 hrs, what are the advantages of synthetic? Anyone?

  • red7

Posted January 04, 2007 - 01:10 AM

#32

I've heard different stories but I'm curious was is the max hours you should go between oil changes? Also, every how many oil changes should you change/clean the oil filter? I'd like to know what's the longest I can safely go because I hate changing the oil? I don't want to jeapordize the bike but I'm one that would rather do a little less mainentance and replace the bike sooner then doing the absolute best scenario (change it every ride) and have a bike that lasts forever. Is there a safe compromise?

  • grayracer513

Posted January 04, 2007 - 10:03 AM

#33

I used to do that when I ran Amsoil in my ranch trucks. Only thing is that I figured by the time I did the $20 plus shipping, I could get Mobil 1 cheaper at Sam's and that's what I started doing.

I'm applying the $20 and a discount of 20% and I'm still coming up with about $8/qt for the Amsoil. Mobil 1 MXT is $7.50/quart at my local small-town auto parts store (who gives me free advice on my Chevy...) and I paid $13/gallon for Rotella there. I'll probably just stick with local.

It depends on thet availability of MX4T, and how much Amsoil you use. I use Mobil 1 EP in my truck and cars because I can get it cheaper. But MX4T is difficult to find, I never found a way to order by the case for a decent price, and the only people I can find that carry it reliably want >$9/qt for it. Amsoil runs me more like $7.50/qt. with all the costs factored in, and they put it on my front porch for me.

Considering I change oil every 5-6 hrs, what are the advantages of synthetic? Anyone?

In general terms, superior resistance to deterioration at high temperatures, superior resistance to evaporation at high temperatures, superior resistance to foaming, and superior resistance to the formation of acids. Also, synthetic base oils can have very high viscosity indexes, which means they will not require the addition of as high a percentage of viscosity index improvers to perform as multi-grade oils, which usually means that viscosity shear down will be less of an issue.

I've heard different stories but I'm curious was is the max hours you should go between oil changes? Also, every how many oil changes should you change/clean the oil filter? I'd like to know what's the longest I can safely go because I hate changing the oil? I don't want to jeapordize the bike but I'm one that would rather do a little less mainentance and replace the bike sooner then doing the absolute best scenario (change it every ride) and have a bike that lasts forever. Is there a safe compromise?

Remind me not to buy a bike from you. :lol: I use a limit of 3 ride days, or 10 hours. Actually ten is a little long, but it could happen over 3 days time. With just over a quart of oil doing all that work, it gets about all the abuse I want to give it in that time. I also use a Scotts stainless oil filter in part because that way I have no reason at all not to clean the filter with each and every oil change. I know people have gone longer and got away with it, but I won't do it with mine.

  • rexbond007

Posted January 04, 2007 - 05:53 PM

#34

i change oil every 7-10 hrs. that for me equals two-three rides. I clean stainless filter every second oil change.
i find other thumper readers are around this number, in other forums too.

  • djtroy

Posted January 04, 2007 - 09:36 PM

#35

Here's another vote for a Scott's stainless filter and Amsoil motorcycle specific synthetic 10w40. I have put a 100 hours on a clutch with this oil. No problems.



This sounds like the combo that works. Those filters are close to $70 bucks, whats the deal witch cleaning them and reusing them? Whats the process?

  • aford541

Posted January 04, 2007 - 09:47 PM

#36

I use https://www.amsoil.c...efront/aff.aspx

I hear that the Motul 300V Factory Line 100% Synthetic is the best on the dyno.

Who knows

  • grayracer513

Posted January 05, 2007 - 09:10 AM

#37

Those filters are close to $70 bucks, whats the deal witch cleaning them and reusing them? Whats the process?

First, on the cost, if I used $3 bulk pack cheapie filters, the 18 or so oil changes I do each year would add up to $104 in the first two years. The filter in the '03 is 3 years old. The filter in my old 250F was two years old when I sold the bike. Between the two of them, I figure they saved me enough money in that time to pay for the one I put in the '06. And on top of that, they are simply a better filter.

Cleaning is simple. Remove it as usual, then do one or more of the following:

1> Holding it between your fingers by the ends so that you block of the outlet port in the filter, swish it in clean mineral spirits or solvent. Use a soft brush, if you like, or compressed air, to dislodge any stubborn flakes.

2> Use a carb cleaner spray to clean the filter. Spray as much as possible from the inside to the outside. (The outside is the dirty side)

3> Wash it in hot, soapy water, again rinsing from inside to out. Follow up with alcohol or carb cleaner to absorb the remaining water.

I use a combination of 1 & 2. I clean the old oil of in the solvent can, then in a bowl of new clean solvent, then carb spray and air. Takes 5 minutes or less.

  • motoag93

Posted January 05, 2007 - 07:44 PM

#38

I just finished my first oil change on my new 07 YZ450, coming off of a KX250 (quick oil changes!).

Easiest for me to take the bike off of the stand to drain the oil, I made a mess trying to do it on the stand. The right side drain bolt you'll need a torque wrench adaptor to get on it, I was forced to tighten it by hand. Remove the skid plate and cover up anything you don't want to get oily with plastic wrap(right side) when removing the oil filter.

I saw no bits or pieces in the filter at all.

When I got to the air filter I was disappointed with the dealer's oil job. Looked like they didn't put much effort to work the oil into the filter and no grease was used. If you get a new one, before you break it in check the air filter!

  • ZéPovinho

Posted January 05, 2007 - 08:54 PM

#39

it does´nt mather who puts what. here in europe we work with brands like shell, bp, castrol, galp, repsol, motul, and you in the US have brands we never herd about. still the european and american engines are, and run the same.
the point is, there is no use to be filling the cranckcase with sintetic oil. at least not on a mx bike, talking about 10 hours intervals. the theory around the viscosity of the oil and its degradation is correct, but the real problem on these big thumphers is wend that thin natural wear of cluch and gears form those micro dust shavings that float arround the oil forever and any filter cant do nothing about them. that is why the short 4/6/8/10 whatsoever hour interval. HELL!!! if a fully synt oil only lasted 10 hours on a engine how often would a road R6/R1 owner change its oil, based on a 75 MPH or even a 100 MPH? every 750/1000 miles? no way, an oil change on these bikes sould last 6000 miles. that´s 60 houres on a fine 100Mph average. that´s also how fine these oils are. if any of you has the chance of watch an oil change on these bikes, notice that those shinny micro dust shavings dont´t show up while drainning( if they do appear keep in mind that the oil ran more than 60 hours and the amount of them don´t even mach the oil changed on a YZ)
a semi-sintetic is more than enought, as long as it is suited for bikes/cluches.here in europe the main brands always offer a line of products aiming bikes: shell "ADVANCE", aral "ENERGY", galp "MOTOACTION", and so sould be there in the states, you can´t go wrong.
beeing your bike new, you can start from scrach. choose an oil with a fair price( a semi-synt is always cheaper than a full-synt), that you can find anywere on a constant stock and not some craisy brand on promotion that comes and then goes...
stick with semi-synt, keep the same brand and type, forget the mineral and ran away from the new recicled oils.
I´ve tried both semy and fully synt, and with any one of them the results are the same: it comes with those shinny micro dust shavings.
remenber, its the cluch and gears that tear, not the oil .

  • aford541

Posted January 06, 2007 - 01:47 AM

#40

it does´nt mather who puts what. here in europe we work with brands like shell, bp, castrol, galp, repsol, motul, and you in the US have brands we never herd about. still the european and american engines are, and run the same.
the point is, there is no use to be filling the cranckcase with sintetic oil. at least not on a mx bike, talking about 10 hours intervals. the theory around the viscosity of the oil and its degradation is correct, but the real problem on these big thumphers is wend that thin natural wear of cluch and gears form those micro dust shavings that float arround the oil forever and any filter cant do nothing about them. that is why the short 4/6/8/10 whatsoever hour interval. HELL!!! if a fully synt oil only lasted 10 hours on a engine how often would a road R6/R1 owner change its oil, based on a 75 MPH or even a 100 MPH? every 750/1000 miles? no way, an oil change on these bikes sould last 6000 miles. that´s 60 houres on a fine 100Mph average. that´s also how fine these oils are. if any of you has the chance of watch an oil change on these bikes, notice that those shinny micro dust shavings dont´t show up while drainning( if they do appear keep in mind that the oil ran more than 60 hours and the amount of them don´t even mach the oil changed on a YZ)
a semi-sintetic is more than enought, as long as it is suited for bikes/cluches.here in europe the main brands always offer a line of products aiming bikes: shell "ADVANCE", aral "ENERGY", galp "MOTOACTION", and so sould be there in the states, you can´t go wrong.
beeing your bike new, you can start from scrach. choose an oil with a fair price( a semi-synt is always cheaper than a full-synt), that you can find anywere on a constant stock and not some craisy brand on promotion that comes and then goes...
stick with semi-synt, keep the same brand and type, forget the mineral and ran away from the new recicled oils.
I´ve tried both semy and fully synt, and with any one of them the results are the same: it comes with those shinny micro dust shavings.
remenber, its the cluch and gears that tear, not the oil .


From my stand point a quart of Amsoil costs 8.05 a quart Mobil one 5.70 the price difference is insignificant at 2.35 per oil change, If I'm lucky I change the oil 20 times a year thats 50.87 a year including taxes 7,000 bike, 1,500 to do the motor 100 do do a clutch, it's cheap insurance to use a good oil.





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