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2006 450 oil change


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From my stand point a quart of Amsoil costs 8.05 a quart Mobil one 5.70 the price difference is insignificant at 2.35 per oil change, If I'm lucky I change the oil 20 times a year thats 50.87 a year including taxes 7,000 bike, 1,500 to do the motor 100 do do a clutch, it's cheap insurance to use a good oil.

if everybody whants to keep it safe, change the oil more oftenly, the issue is not that it degradates, it is that it gets dirty. whe have to keep it cleen.

why YAMAHA´s changing interval on previous 400/426 models was ONE race? the oil din´t take it 2 HOURS? NO. it got dirty from that net type filter letting everything but the biger shavings go thru whatever the oil it would use.

now the 06 YZ450 has a paper type filter leting the oil stay clean for 5 races/10 hours but still the oil comes as much dirty like on the previous model.

on those intervals the semi-synt takes it as whell as a full synt, com´on... it´s only 8 or 10 hours it has to last.

you guys are lucky that you don´t let go 20$/plus each quarter for a synt mobil, shell or repsol like whe do here in PORTUGAL. Ican get good semi-synts for 13$and do the job whell

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where is the proof Amsoil is better than Mobil 1? they are both good oils, one may break down quicker than the other. but we all change the oil out, before that happens. price is not a factor to me but why spend more than we have to. with todays oils. What can cost us a motor rebuild is not doing oil changes. price of oil has nothing to do with whether a guy is going to have to do a rebuild. It's lack of maintance that will factor a re build, from clean air filters to valve adjustments and coolant. And most important how a rider rides and treats his bike.

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the issue is not that it degradates, it is that it gets dirty.
The issue IS that it degrades. Used oil analysis I have done myself on several otherwise good oils have shown that some of them can be sheared out of grade (loose their viscosity due to shearing through the transmission) in as little as 3 hours or less. Some Big-Buck car oils, and some so-called motorcycle oils, can be turned from a 10w-40 to a 10w-20 in an alarmingly short time. I stay with oils that I know will work and hold up.

With your attitude, why bother with synthetic blends (some of which do hold up well, BTW)? Straight petroleum products should be enough, right?

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With your attitude, why bother with synthetic blends (some of which do hold up well, BTW)? Straight petroleum products should be enough, right?

I just share the same opinion as rexbond007. you seem to have the means to know what´s really good or not, most of us don´t. I just said that you should go for a trusty proven product, trashing minerals and recicleds, not filling any cr@p in the engine.

about money issues, please understand i´m paying four times as much as you do for the same amount of oil.

"why spend more than we have to, with todays oils"??

thanks rexbond007

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  • 2 years later...
  • 1 month later...

i finally found out that some walmarts do actually carry a synthetic oil that meet jaso ma requirements. they have the rotella t6 synthetic. it doesnt say it very boldly but if you read the requirements that it meets it says jaso ma

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  • 4 months later...

I've been using Amsoil in my trucks for years and put no less than 30,000 miles on each oil change. I change the filter every 6,000. Can't beat it!

After having to take out a small loan to put Motorex in my KTM, I started running Amsoil; I also just put it in my 08 YZ450F and my bikes run amazing! I'm paying $8 a quart for Amsoil and was paying $17 for Motorex.

I will never use any other type of oil!

The stainless filter seems to be worth checking out. what is the best way to clean them???

I buy mine direct from Amsoil. I registered at Amsoil.com as a preferred customer, which gives me about a 20% break on all of their products. I just bought 4 pretty good looking two stage foam filters from them for $16 each, for example.

It costs $20/yr, but I save more than that on the first 12 qt. case I buy.

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The stainless filter seems to be worth checking out. what is the best way to clean them???

I only recommend Scotts filters. They do cost more, but they're US made, and of an overall quality that no one has yet matched that I know of. I haven't seen the Filtron, yet, so I'll reserve comment on that one, but all of the others I'm aware of are pretty obviously lacking in one way or other, and I've seen at least 3 different kinds fall apart.

To clean them, hold them by the ends so as to close off the oil feed hole and keep dirt out of the "clean side" (the interior) of the filter, and swish them around in clean solvent like mineral spirits. Finish them up with filtered compressed air and/or carb cleaner. You can use soap and water, too.

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I always use Yama lube with no regrets!

Not to beat a dead horse but I have used Yamalube WITH regrets. I guess I didn't realize what I was missing until I switched to Amsoil. I'm not saying that everyone should switch I'm just saying that you won't know the difference until you try something else.

The Studies have shown what was easy to see from my inexperienced naked eye, Yamalube broke down quickly in my bike, and i currently have absolutely no reason to go back to using that product.

Just my $0.02

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