07 xr650r differences?


15 replies to this topic
  • m25443

Posted December 22, 2006 - 06:35 PM

#1

I have a new 2007 xr650r. I just added a baja designs dual sport kit, Trail Tech Vapor, HRC exhaust tip, open carb insulator, and rejetted. Jets are 68s, 172 (4th clip), and B53E. Pilot screw out 2.5 turns.

Hard to start first time, haven't cold started since. Runs noticeably stronger. I need to optimize the pilot screw setting.

A few things I am seeing are different than most of what has been talked about in the numerous threads I have been reading.

1) The pilot screw has a funky "D" shape that requires a special tool. I took my carb to the local Honda shop and borrowed their tool. They told me it costs $28 to buy one, and the Honda version of the tool is even more. My manual shows a pilot screw that has a slot for a flat head screwdriver. Is this a new "feature" for 2007?

2) Several of the philips head screws were amazingly hard to break loose. I'm tempted to go to the hardware store and buy a bunch of with allen heads (hex). Is there a "kit" already put together for this? I bought one for the case on my 74 Yamaha 100 Enduro back in the old days.

3) The most interesting difference is the airflow. Air flows through the foam filter and the stainless mesh screen right behind it. The opening from that into an intermediate chamber of soft rubber is pretty big. I have large hands and can pretty much reach into the intermediate chamber. This intermediate chamber connects to the back side of the carb. What I am confused about is the prior discussions about having to remove a couple of plastic panels to open up the airflow. I don't see any. What am I missing?

Mike.

  • rebelventurer

Posted December 22, 2006 - 07:35 PM

#2

Get an edelbrock, or fcr pumper carb.
air restrictors are between carb and intake port on head.
check ebay for bolt kits, or xrs only, barnums or other xr specialist of your choice.

  • m25443

Posted December 22, 2006 - 08:25 PM

#3

Thanks rebelventurer.

I replaced the carb insulator between the carb and the cylinder head with the much more open Honda part (part # 16211-MBN-640). Looking at Bob Naumann's uncorking instructions, it references "Remove both the rubber and plastic pieces from the airbox." I don't see any such pieces on my 2007.

Would love to have the Edelbrock. Maybe next year!

Mike.

  • SlickitySloan

Posted December 22, 2006 - 11:13 PM

#4

3) The most interesting difference is the airflow. Air flows through the foam filter...What I am confused about is the prior discussions about having to remove a couple of plastic panels to open up the airflow. I don't see any. What am I missing?

Mike.

The plastic panels you are looking for are on the number plate side cover in front of the foam air filter you speak of. Cut out two panels without compromising the reinforcing ribs on the side cover.

I used a expanded metal mesh from a pen holder that you could probably find in a office supply store and used a silicone adhesive to glue in my mesh after cutting the opneings to fit my mesh. Six years old no problems.

  • rebelventurer

Posted December 23, 2006 - 06:50 AM

#5

If you ride the desert/ baja regions dont cut the side cover, it allows silt, fine sand, and water to enter the air box. My opinion is the tiny increase you get is not worth the reliability/ service issues!

  • m25443

Posted December 23, 2006 - 07:31 AM

#6

Okay. I see now. Thanks!

  • 2XR650s

Posted December 23, 2006 - 10:22 AM

#7

The two restrictors I removed are under the side panel, between the air filter housing and the seat, to allow more air flow from under the seat and back fender area to get around to the front of the air filter. I replaced all the screws in the carb with allens. I found all but two at home depot. The two smallest ones in the slide actuator arm I found online at bolt depot I believe. Much easier with the allen heads.

  • spotsboss

Posted December 25, 2006 - 08:21 AM

#8

M25443,

Did you find the 2 air intake restrictors O.K.? If not, go to www.xr650r.us/tech/thewrench.jpg for a good picture of them.

Were you able to figure out the D-Type pilot screw? If not, get a tiny screwdriver and back it out CAFEFULLY. Pretend that you are a surgeon because this is a very sensitive part. There is a little o-ring in there, too. I put mine in a vice made out of wood and, using the skinnyiest hacksaw blade I could find, sawed a kerf at 90 degrees to the flat of the D. Works great. You need a screwdriver that has a blade that's about 1/8 inch wide to adjust the screw.

What about the Pulse Secondary Air Supply System? The PAIR control valve and all of that plumbing is located on the right, just in front of the cylinder. Get a Block-off Kit from Applied Racing. Baja Designs might have it or write to techdept@appliedrace.com.

:thumbsup:

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  • m25443

Posted December 27, 2006 - 07:28 PM

#9

Thanks, spotsboss.

Found the 2 intake restrictors. I think I'll leave them in for now. I ordered a tool to adjust the pilot screw, but in th einterim, I made one out of .250 od copper tubing. It works fine, but not a permanent tool.

I don;t think my bike has the extra PAIR stuff, so nothing there needed to block off.

I currently am using a 170 main and getting dialed in. I may try opening up the other 2 plates after I see how it runs as is.

Mike.

  • Old_Man_Time

Posted December 27, 2006 - 11:39 PM

#10

Thanks rebelventurer.

I replaced the carb insulator between the carb and the cylinder head with the much more open Honda part (part # 16211-MBN-640). Looking at Bob Naumann's uncorking instructions, it references "Remove both the rubber and plastic pieces from the airbox." I don't see any such pieces on my 2007.

Would love to have the Edelbrock. Maybe next year!

Mike.


Try this link to see where the plastic and rubber pieces are. Once you get to this sight click on the left side panel where it says: "Making the XR650R run right, uncorking it"
http://www.xr650r.net/

  • m25443

Posted August 28, 2008 - 10:24 PM

#11

M25443,
What about the Pulse Secondary Air Supply System? The PAIR control valve and all of that plumbing is located on the right, just in front of the cylinder. Get a Block-off Kit from Applied Racing. Baja Designs might have it or write to techdept@appliedrace.com.
:


Well, to my surprise, my 2007 XR650R DOES have the PAIR Control Valve. Evidently it is 50 state starting in 06. :worthy:

I discovered this when I tried to install a new Clarke 4.3 tank and the PAIR interferes. :thumbsup:

Any pointers to where to find out what to do to remove this, and how it might change my carb jetting?

Mike.

  • spotsboss

Posted August 29, 2008 - 08:17 AM

#12

Mike,

Romoving the PAIR didn't require any jetting changes on mine - - you should be O.K.

Removal was mostly unbolting stuff as I recall, and easy. Putting on the replacement parts that block the airways was a bit more tricky but once everything is in you never have to think about it again. Be careful that you don't drop the small bolts down into the engine crevices because you'll go nuts trying to find them. Drape a cloth under your work. I think I had to modify an allen wrench so I could tighten one of the bolts. It's tight around the exhaust manifold. The guys at Applied were very helpful.

:thumbsup:

  • hondacrf150f1

Posted August 29, 2008 - 08:38 AM

#13

Well, to my surprise, my 2007 XR650R DOES have the PAIR Control Valve. Evidently it is 50 state starting in 06. :worthy:

I discovered this when I tried to install a new Clarke 4.3 tank and the PAIR interferes. :thumbsup:

Any pointers to where to find out what to do to remove this, and how it might change my carb jetting?

Mike.


I was just gonna say this, all 07 models are equipped with the smog pump, XR's only makes a great block off-kit with directions and parts:thumbsup:

To my knowledge the smog pump is the only California emmitions add-on:excuseme:

  • xr650r_

Posted August 30, 2008 - 12:40 PM

#14

Well, to my surprise, my 2007 XR650R DOES have the PAIR Control Valve. Evidently it is 50 state starting in 06. :worthy:

I discovered this when I tried to install a new Clarke 4.3 tank and the PAIR interferes. :thumbsup:

Any pointers to where to find out what to do to remove this, and how it might change my carb jetting?

Mike.


Yeah my 2007 has the smog thing on it too, I bought it in Ohio so I it is a 49 state model. Thats gay as hell.

  • hondacrf150f1

Posted August 31, 2008 - 05:23 AM

#15

Yeah my 2007 has the smog thing on it too, I bought it in Ohio so I it is a 49 state model. Thats gay as hell.


Yeah definatly...you can loose a full 2 pounds by removing it:thumbsup:

does any body know if there is any other emmetions junk that was on the california only models? Besides the smog pump.

  • m25443

Posted August 31, 2008 - 06:48 PM

#16

...Be careful that you don't drop the small bolts down into the engine crevices because you'll go nuts trying to find them. Drape a cloth under your work. I think I had to modify an allen wrench so I could tighten one of the bolts. It's tight around the exhaust manifold. The guys at Applied were very helpful.


Thanks Spotsboss! I have large hands/fingers and tend to drop small nuts/bolts at just the wrong time!!!

I have the Applied Racing on order from BD, but will take them 2-4 days to get it (and I need it by Friday!). I'll call XRsonly on Monday and see if they have it in stock.

I tried calling Thumpertalk online on Friday about 30 minutes before closing and couldn't get through (got the answering machine all 6 or 7 times I called). Guess they went riding..... :thumbsup:

Mike





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