Auto oil use for YZ426?

[BergArabia]

So I have found some fully Synthetic auto oil here which is:

SL/CF (CCMC GS/PD2)

and another one which is for Deisel engines which is:

API CF-4/SH 15-40

I didn't see anything on their labels indicating friction modifying so it should be OK right?

[grayracer513]

If I had to go only on the info you gave, I'd use the CF-4/SH oil. Until I was able to establish that it had the shear resistance required of a transmission oil, I would change it frequently, however.

[motobeck]

Ok, here is my 2 cents... I have read tons of these threads on oils, to the point where I started second guessing what oil to use. Even tried a couple more expensive brands... didn't make make me any faster. lol. Anyway, the point I want to make is I have used Castrol GTX almost all of the bikes I have owned. I have never had any problems or premature wear using this oil. I can not vouch for how long it holds up because at $2 a quart, I change it almost every ride.

[BergArabia]

I know I should understand this oil stuff by now but thanks Gray for keeping it simple..

Oh and yes I do change very regularly. And even at 11 dollars a litre (thats right, that is what I pay here for the Mobile #1 synthetic bike oil, I still consider that a lot cheaper than repairs. But if I can use something a little cheaper and it is good for 10 hours then hey why not?

[BergArabia]

So if CF-4/SH is Ok oil then how about API service CG4/SJ

Isn't it like CG includes the CF spec but is better and SJ includes the SH speci but is also better.. sorry for the lame question just trying to get that simple understanding..

[grayracer513]

CG does include the CF spec, and is an upgrade, but the specific improvements are targeted toward issues that diesel engines have. The SJ and later gasoline engine ratings include a reduction in the levels of zinc/phosphorus based anti-wear additives, and the substitution of moly AWI's in their place. These are NOT friction modifiers, in most cases, so as long as the oil isn't EC II graded, they will likely work OK. But again, I would not use any multi-grade oil that was not proven to be able to retain its viscosity for more than 3 hours without changing it.

You can take samples and have them tested, use a proven oil, or, a cheap route would be to use a good quality straight 40w oil. Since straight grade oils use no viscosity index improvers, they are very seldom subject to shearing down in a transmission. You'll have to warm up a little more gently, is all, but I don't imagine you have too many cold mornings there in the UAE.

[BergArabia]

Thanks again Gray.. I think you just saved me some cash.. ?

Hope our thread starter got some thing good out of this too...

[BergArabia]

I am glad I found this thread again.

One problem here in the middle east is we don't have places like Walmart, or even reasonably stocked bike or car accessories shops where you can buy anything including reasonable oil.

So now I am in Doha and not Dubai, I have to hunt around and find some new oil.

I found Mobile #1 with Syntech.. 0w 40

No mention of moly.

I also have some red line man tx oil that I brought from Dubai

a I also have a CRF I thought why don't I put the gear oil in there. It has the right weight, but hey does anybody know does Red line put friction modifiers in the oil? No mention of that anywhere either. Red Line does sell Moly Sulfide separately so I am guessing you have to pay extra and get the friction modifier separately now..

anyone can enlighten me on this|?

[BergArabia]

On another thread Rickk put a link from sportrider.

I found this paragraph embedded which has kind of put me at ease about using synthetics..

Can synthetic oils cause my clutch to slip?

To answer this in one word: No. Clutch slippage is caused by many things, but the use of synthetic oil alone is usually not the culprit. The truth is that some bikes seem to suffer clutch slippage no matter what oil goes in them, while others run fine with any oil. This is most likely caused by factors other than the oil, such as the spring pressure, age and clutch plate materials. If you have a bike known for clutch problems, you may have to be more selective in your oil choices.Moly is often blamed for clutch slippage, and it can have an effect-but moly alone is not the problem. We wish there was a hard and fast rule to follow, but it is just not that easy. Simply put, you will have to try an oil and evaluate it. If you experience slippage with the new oil, and have not had problems before, it may be the oil. The plates and/or springs could also be worn to the point that they have finally started to slip. Simply change back to the previous oil and see what happens. You can also check the test data in next issue's article to see if that particular oil has a significant amount of moly. If so, try one that does not have as much moly next time.

We talked to Mark Junge, Vesrah's Racing representative, who has won numerous WERA national championships using Vesrah's clutches. He said that in his years of engine work he has yet to see a slipping clutch that could be pinned on synthetic motor oil. Junge felt that nearly every time the clutch was marginal or had worn springs, the new oil just revealed a problem that already existed.

..

Any comments. I am not trolling here this is out of genuine concern that I don't do something to my clutch..

[grayracer513]

I am glad I found this thread again.

One problem here in the middle east is we don't have places like Walmart, or even reasonably stocked bike or car accessories shops where you can buy anything including reasonable oil.

So now I am in Doha and not Dubai, I have to hunt around and find some new oil.

I found Mobile #1 with Syntech.. 0w 40

No mention of moly.

I also have some red line man tx oil that I brought from Dubai

a I also have a CRF I thought why don't I put the gear oil in there. It has the right weight, but hey does anybody know does Red line put friction modifiers in the oil? No mention of that anywhere either. Red Line does sell Moly Sulfide separately so I am guessing you have to pay extra and get the friction modifier separately now..

anyone can enlighten me on this|?

You might want to see if you can get around all of that by having a case of Amsoil shipped to your doorstep, or tentflap, as the case may be.

I would be very concerned with the shear resistance of the M1 at 0w-40. At such a wide viscosity spread, it is certain to depend heavily on viscosity index improver additives, and since it is most likely an automotive oil, the VII's will more than likely not be capable of holding up well in a transmission. It should work in the engine of the CRF, but I would look for something else for the YZF.

Transmission oil is what you should be using in the CRF gearbox, and it will probably work fine with the clutch. Try it and see. Unless something was changed, you should be aware that when you refill the CRF trans, it will indicate that the oil level is full or over full until after you run the bike or lay it on its left side. Be sure to double check the level.

[BergArabia]

Thanks Gray

[pembell]

I was doing a trawl today to get advice on oils for my 02 YZ426, came upon this thread and just thought I'd put a pointer to this:

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

which has a handy table describing the qualities of oils amongst other general info.

It's obviously relevant for more than the 426, but that's what I was looking for, so here it is!