Front fork-seal

3 replies to this topic
  • jaffie

Posted January 01, 2002 - 10:51 PM


Did anyone changed the front fork oil seal themselves?
Is it a heard thing to do?
Do you need any special tools or greases?
How much oil does it contain?

How does it happen that one oil seal leaks from one day at another very heard and on the dust seal is nothing to see.

I have a 00WR400F YZ timed.

  • Guy

Posted January 01, 2002 - 11:47 AM


:) Before you pull it into a million pieces, try cutting a piece of film (as in camera 35mm) in to a pointed shape, then gently feed it round the seal to remove any unwanted debris, pump the forks, then repeat...this may do the trick , it has for me before , it is a lot cheaper and easier that replacment and if it don't work you've lost nowt!
There may be a link to this procedure on the site...but I can't find it.
Another thing, normally I'm a gen Part person, always have been , however a friend with a 426 has no luck with gen Yam fork seals, but is still on his first set of pattern seals, with NO leaks!
Theres logic somewhere in there...but I'm dammned if I can Find it :D

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  • s.c.rider

Posted January 01, 2002 - 01:05 PM


I changed mine myself. The hardest part is driving the new one back in w/o messing it up. You really need a seal driver but I did'nt have one so I cut some pvc pipe in half and used that, next time I will probably just buy the seal driver (~$70). Follow the manual, but don't take the lower part of the fork apart, you don't need to take the compression valve and all that out just to replace the seal. You will also need to reset the fork oil height, I used a small metric ruler. the shop will probabaly charge about $70 to do it. It may be worth it to just let the shop do it, it was aggravating the first time but the second seal went alot smoother.
Check the archives that's what I had to do.


Posted January 02, 2002 - 10:36 PM


I just replaced the seals on my bike last week for the first time. A friend walked me through the process which seems intimidating until you get started.

I had been using the film swipe method for a year plus, but the leaks were happening way too often. The money you save doing it yourself will pay for the seal driver.

If you can get an impact wrench and a 14mm hex bit it is worth removing the dampening assembly at least once to flush the crud out. You'll be surprised!

You will want to replace the piston and slider bearings while you are in there. I found that '96 cr250 oil and dust seals work on wr's and are sold as a pair for under $15 per leg! Time will tell how durable they are.

Remember to cycle the damper rod several times up and down through it's travel after you fill with oil because until you do that you will get a false level. :)


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