oil temp on an 06 650l?


21 replies to this topic
  • perry5150

Posted December 13, 2006 - 09:42 PM

#1

does anyone know the stock operating oil temp on a 650l (06')

  • HighRevz

Posted December 14, 2006 - 01:23 AM

#2

Buy a gauge from xr's only

  • Phuzzy McPhuzzface

Posted December 14, 2006 - 08:42 AM

#3

does anyone know the stock operating oil temp on a 650l (06')


Depends on way too many factors.

Ambient air temp, load, jetting, breathe-ability, altitude, humidity, ground speed, gear selection, throttle position, etc.

The temp guage is really the way to monitor op temps.

For mine, I ballparked it, and marked my guage at 225º and 300º, and consider this its range. 300º is high, and oil doesn't do well at this temp.

Mine averages around 250º or so. But if I take it out today, at 60º out, it's not a fair comparison from this summer when it was 115º out. But, this summer at those temps during normal riding, I never saw it at 300º. 275-280º, though.

  • rebelventurer

Posted December 14, 2006 - 12:32 PM

#4

Mine tends to run around 250, and if I run hard for long periods around 280, thats if the xrs only gauge is right. but phuzz is right there are variables oil weight also being one important one!

  • perry5150

Posted December 25, 2006 - 05:42 PM

#5

my buddys is running at about 320 when we are runnin hard he just got an exhaust and jetting at xr's....the temp is around 60 outside ...is that too high for 10 30 weight oil

  • rebelventurer

Posted December 26, 2006 - 08:02 AM

#6

Yes that is way too hot, if the gauge is correct? or even close. At 300 degrees most oils are deteriorating, at 320 rapidly, almost cooking off!

  • cleonard

Posted December 26, 2006 - 10:34 AM

#7

my buddys is running at about 320 when we are runnin hard he just got an exhaust and jetting at xr's....the temp is around 60 outside ...is that too high for 10 30 weight oil


10W30 is too thin an oil for these bikes. At 320F even 20W50 is too thin. Get some thicker oil in that bike pronto.

What kind or riding are you doing? Sand dunes and very difficult steep first gear single track can cause high temps. I would guess that anything that makes the 650L go to 320 would also cause problems for any water cooled bike too.

Perhaps the bike is a bit on the lean side. Moving to a one size larger main and/or moving the clip one richer can have a big effect of the temperature. I try and run my 600 a little on the rich side for just this reason.

  • perry5150

Posted January 11, 2007 - 12:13 AM

#8

ok so thicker oil huh makes sense. he gets the temp this hot when we ride the freeway.....60 degrees 90mph for 20 second bursts average speed is about 80

  • Phuzzy McPhuzzface

Posted January 11, 2007 - 07:34 AM

#9

ok so thicker oil huh makes sense. he gets the temp this hot when we ride the freeway.....60 degrees 90mph for 20 second bursts average speed is about 80


That doesn't sound right. At freeway speeds, you have lots of air cooling occurring. Thicker oil will be less thin at those temps, but those temps are high for your oil anyhow.

I concur that the jetting/mix is not optimal. Fuel plays a large role in maintaining proper op temps, so I'd look at my jetting/mix first. You MPG's will go down some, but you'll be running the engine within spec, so it's money well/properly spent. A lean burn will cause lots of problems and destroy your engine's longevity very quickly.

Check/read your plug. It's a very good indicator of what is taking place inside your engine.

At 60 degrees ambient temp @ 80 MPH, I'd think you'd be showing about 260-280 on the guage.

  • XR650L_Dave

Posted January 11, 2007 - 08:58 AM

#10

That doesn't sound right. At freeway speeds, you have lots of air cooling occurring.


Mmm, unless he's got the stock tank with the stock front fender with the wings removed.

Put that together with soft springs and the head is blocked quite a bit.

Dave

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  • Phuzzy McPhuzzface

Posted January 11, 2007 - 09:38 AM

#11

Mmm, unless he's got the stock tank with the stock front fender with the wings removed.

Put that together with soft springs and the head is blocked quite a bit.

Dave


Dave, I hear what you are saying and completely respect your knowledge/experience, but at the same time, my gut tells me that the turbulence, eddies, and general air movement near the head at freeway speeds has to be more than enough to be within spec for the air-cooled design.

300+ degrees @ 60 degrees ambient @ 80-90MPH I don't think is from lack of air exchange.

I could be 100% wrong; I am not an expert, but I'd be maximizing my mix as a first choice. Just my .02---it's where I'd start if I was in his friend's shoes.

It sure would be interesting to see a 650L in a wind tunnel, especially with various configs like you pointed out, with temp monitors, to boot.

  • squatpuke

Posted January 11, 2007 - 12:02 PM

#12

Mine seems to run around 210-220...corked, stock tank/wings in a very nippy moutainous area of Arizona.

  • XR650L_Dave

Posted January 11, 2007 - 03:50 PM

#13

Dave, I hear what you are saying and completely respect your knowledge/experience, but at the same time, my gut tells me that the turbulence, eddies, and general air movement near the head at freeway speeds has to be more than enough to be within spec for the air-cooled design.

300+ degrees @ 60 degrees ambient @ 80-90MPH I don't think is from lack of air exchange.

I could be 100% wrong; I am not an expert, but I'd be maximizing my mix as a first choice. Just my .02---it's where I'd start if I was in his friend's shoes.

It sure would be interesting to see a 650L in a wind tunnel, especially with various configs like you pointed out, with temp monitors, to boot.



I agree totally it wouldn't be the cause of his temps being so high (not by that much).

The bowshock that front fender can create is pretty impressive, though. Its like a bug deflector on the front of a pickup- just the right push at just the right place and the flow detaches, leaving a bunch of eddies that don't really move that quick.

Dave

  • perry5150

Posted January 12, 2007 - 07:05 PM

#14

Hes got a aftermarket tank k&n filter emission block off stock front fender (should I notch some grooves?)

  • rocky one

Posted June 06, 2008 - 06:15 PM

#15

To Sum This All Up Im The Guy That Perry 5150 Is Talking About.. This Is Kinda A Late Post But I Should Clear This Up.....my Bike Has Never Hit 320 Let Alone 300....at Times It Would Hit 270 Or So But I Was Asking For That To Happen....i.e... Wide Open Throttle On The Freeway For 5-10 Minutes At A Time..and Thats After I Already Had It At 240 Or So By Riding Hard.....something I Like To Doooo....but On A Normal Day Of Average Riding With Honda Spec 10-40 Oil It Lands At Or Near 230-250

Don't Listen To Perry 5150= He's Crazy(love Ya Brother)

5150= Crazy

  • this is this

Posted June 06, 2008 - 06:56 PM

#16

[quote name='cleonard']10W30 is too thin an oil for these bikes. At 320F even 20W50 is too thin. Get some thicker oil in that bike pronto.


10W30 too thin? If this is true, why is it what the manual calls for to use?

  • martinfan30

Posted June 06, 2008 - 07:19 PM

#17

.


[color=red]10W30 too thin? If this is true, why is it what the manual calls for to use?[/color]

The thinnest I would ever run in my L is 10w-40.. In winter when it doesnt get any warmer than high 40's.

20w-50 is the perfect weight for warm weather riding. Dont even think about using 10w-30 in the warm weather! They dont call these things air cooled oil cookers for nothing..

The advise given here is from a collective several hundred years of experience with these engines.

Another thing, DONT let them idle when first starting cold!

  • this is this

Posted June 06, 2008 - 07:29 PM

#18

.




Another thing, DONT let them idle when first starting cold!



What? Would you like to 'splain that one please?

  • martinfan30

Posted June 06, 2008 - 08:56 PM

#19

What? Would you like to 'splain that one please?


Have you noticed the small diameter oil supply pipe from the case to the head?

I'm not saying rev it out cold, just vary the throttle a little when first starting. 1k rpms to about 1400 just to help the oil get up to the top quicker.

Also they need a good warm up before riding hard, which i'm sure is obvious.

  • this is this

Posted June 07, 2008 - 03:45 AM

#20

Have you noticed the small diameter oil supply pipe from the case to the head?

I'm not saying rev it out cold, just vary the throttle a little when first starting. 1k rpms to about 1400 just to help the oil get up to the top quicker.

Also they need a good warm up before riding hard, which i'm sure is obvious.


Got it. Thanks. I've been doing just that with all my rides.





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