Tall rider Ergo changes

2 replies to this topic
  • mcarp

Posted December 28, 2001 - 07:54 AM



I have been looking for ways to improve the ergo's on the WR, I'm around 6'2" 190lbs.

So far I've done the normal stuff that many guys do, YZ tank, YZ seat w/ nice soft tall foam and grippy cover. TAG T2 CR Double Hi bars on 7/8" risers (stock bar clamp turned upside down).
Still using stock triple clamps, and Scotts Damper setup.

These changes were huge, but I still felt a little too close to the bars, leaning them forward a little made the bar angles feel different and ackward.

I also felt like a monkey while standing, always crouched over to grip the bars firmly-I got used to it, but it was annoying.

From some searches on TT, I found a thread that describes changing the position of your footpegs,at virtually no cost.

Well, I tried it and absolutely love it!
The mod moves the pegs lower and to the rear of your bike by about 10-12mm. After riding the bike about 5 times now with the mod, I no longer feel hunched over and have a more natural postion on the bars, especially when leaned forward for turns. I had to adjust both my brake and shifter downward to accomodate it, but did not affect the use of these controls (size 11.5 boots)-in fact I felt like I had more rear wheel braking control..dunno why maybe the angle of my ankle/foot changed enough to make a difference. :)
The center of gravity now feels lower, I can turn better while standing, which has always been an area I have needed improvement on. I suspect if I use a Ty Davis tank this would only improve things.

One thing I was concerned about-dragging in ruts/turns. Well I didn't give it the full nasty trail test yet, but I suspect I won't have any problems. The past few rides I didn't feel close to dragging. Only time will tell I guess.

Oh, and I use a Motojackrack and it still fits on the rack perfectly.

How to do this mod...
1.) Remove cotter pin, peg pin, peg, and spring on both sides. You'll need to swap the springs side to side.

2.) Notice on the footpegs, the cast barrel-looking part that extends outward about 1/2 inch-the pin goes though this part and the spring would wrap around it.

3.) Cut this barrel off, flush with the footpeg base. I used a fresh #18 hacksaw blade, but a good cutoff wheel would have been easier/faster.

4.) File the cut areas on both the cut off piece and the footpeg. Use a rattail file to deburr the inner areas so the pin doesn't form any divots.
5.) Clean up the parts, grease the inner barrel areas and pin.

6.) Re-assemble with the cut off barrel on upper left, not lower right as before. Use the spring from the opposite site. Find two thin washers (one on each peg) that will fill the small amount of freeplay from the metal shavings.

7.) Re-adjust shift and brake levers. Readjust bars if needed. Test ride, re-adjust levers/bars again if having trouble shifting/braking.

Steps 1-6 should take about an hour or so, more if your like me and take 15 mins to find the new hacksaw blades. :D

Anything else that you tall riders have done to improve ergos?
Happy Holidays to all,


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  • Woodzi

Posted December 28, 2001 - 08:47 AM


You didn't mention welding the barrel back on the top of the footpeg. This is a very important step! If the barrel is not welded, the pin is loaded with a bending force, as opposed to a shear force. The pin is too small to support the bending load. If you do this mod, it is very important to weld the footpeg back together.

  • mcarp

Posted December 28, 2001 - 05:44 PM


Interesting! I'll ge that done right away...however from the other post there was no mention of welding. Doing so w/o allows you to reverse the change.

But I can see where it could break. Anyone else tried this and have any comments?



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