600r oil question


9 replies to this topic
  • camoman

Posted November 30, 2006 - 11:17 AM

#1

another newbie question... I picked up my 600r today and geez its all engine. This is great... The oil dipstick is in front of the gas tank. To check the oil do I stand the bike up straight - screw the dipstick down or just set on the treads???
Does it matter if engine is warm or cold?
What type / brand / weight of oil should I use....


thanks..:worthy:

  • BRPXL600R

Posted November 30, 2006 - 11:18 AM

#2

Welcome to TT and check your oil after it has warmed up otherwise you will get false reading!!!!

  • cleonard

Posted November 30, 2006 - 11:52 AM

#3

The book says start it and idle for 5 minutes. I never get a good reading that way. It reads a bit on the low side. I only seem to get a good reading if I ride it. The best is to check it at the end of every ride.

As far a what kind of oil, pretty much anything will work. The most important thing is to change it often and regularlly. I don't think I go past about 10 hours. I'm currently running the Shell Rotella 15W-40 oil. I used to use Honda oil, but I think that the Rotella actually last longer. Since the 600 is aircooled, it runs hot. I think that 20W-50 is best and don't go thinner than 10W-40.

I chang my filter every other time.

  • SniperTeamBravo

Posted November 30, 2006 - 01:10 PM

#4

The book says start it and idle for 5 minutes. I never get a good reading that way. It reads a bit on the low side. I only seem to get a good reading if I ride it. The best is to check it at the end of every ride.

As far a what kind of oil, pretty much anything will work. The most important thing is to change it often and regularlly. I don't think I go past about 10 hours. I'm currently running the Shell Rotella 15W-40 oil. I used to use Honda oil, but I think that the Rotella actually last longer. Since the 600 is aircooled, it runs hot. I think that 20W-50 is best and don't go thinner than 10W-40.

I chang my filter every other time.


Yep, Rotella T or the Castrol Actevo or what every thay call it, synthetic blend.....BTW ride for about 5 minutes stop, idle for about 30 seconds or more then turn it off and check it right away...otherwise you may overfilll or underfill it. Just keep an eye on it. And welcome to the zoo!

  • Owyhee

Posted November 30, 2006 - 02:09 PM

#5

I have really good luck with Mobil 1. I ran it in my XL600V (50,000 miles, no smoke), my XR350R (20,000 miles, some smoke, run hard), and all of my other bikes.

Summer I run 15-50 and winter I run 0-40 (winter is below 25 degrees).

Oh, I've never changed a clutch or done a top end in my 20ish years of riding.

"O"

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  • cbaranski

Posted November 30, 2006 - 04:27 PM

#6

I usually change my oil about every 3 rides. I use Amsoil 20-50 here in AZ. I change the filter every other oil change. I like to let the engine warm up a couple of minute and then put it on the milk crate and check the oil. Remember when you change the oil to keep checking the level. Once it gets full, start your bike and let it run a minute of 2. Then check the level again. It should take 2.6 qaurts of oil.

  • camoman

Posted November 30, 2006 - 04:46 PM

#7

Good I will keep all of this in mind,, Stupid question,, the oil weights you guys speak of is automotive oil correct? Back in the day I have always used yamalube or bel-ray... I do not ride in the winter so what weight oil should I use, I live in Ohio average temp in summer is 85, and are there two drain plugs I need to remove when changing the oil filter????
thaks again you guys are great.....

  • cleonard

Posted November 30, 2006 - 05:47 PM

#8

Good I will keep all of this in mind,, Stupid question,, the oil weights you guys speak of is automotive oil correct? Back in the day I have always used yamalube or bel-ray... I do not ride in the winter so what weight oil should I use, I live in Ohio average temp in summer is 85, and are there two drain plugs I need to remove when changing the oil filter????
thaks again you guys are great.....


The weight rating are the same for automotive, heavy duty diesel, or motorcycle engine oils.

There are 2 drain plugs that you need to use. One a 17mm head on the left side of the engine at the bottom side under the gear shift lever, and another 14mm head at the bottom of the frame tube in front of the engine. You have to use both to get the oil out at each change. In fact most of the oil is usually in the frame tube.

There is also a screen that needs cleaning at the bottom of the frame tube. You have to remove the oil line at the bottom of the frame tube, then the screen assembly looks like a bolt screwed into the bottom of the frame tube. It can be real tight and hard to remove, so use a box end wrench. I only clean mine about twice a year and I ride almost every weekend.

Get yourself a shop manual. Honda is best, but a Clymer will do. I got my Honda manual on ebay for about $15.

I think 20W-50 is best for temperatures about freezing, but I run the Rotella and 15W-40 is the highest the Rotella comes in. It's about $9 a gal at Walmart. Since the oil is inexpensive, I don't feel bad changing perfectly good hardly used oil. It would be a lot harder to do with $10 a quart MC specific synthetic oil. Any good oil like the Yamalube or the Belray you mentioned are fine.

  • tomb1957

Posted December 04, 2006 - 10:39 PM

#9

I run 20-50 Motul 3000, seems to work good. Temperature runs 200-250.

  • tomb1957

Posted December 04, 2006 - 10:45 PM

#10

There is a screen that is under the clutch that you have to remove the clutch cover to get to. How often does it need to be cleaned?





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