06 450 Leaking Fork Seals


9 replies to this topic
  • mcnaughb

Posted November 28, 2006 - 07:25 PM

#1

Hi All,

I have an 06 450 that has at most 20 hours of trail riding on it. Recently I did some VERY VERY muddy riding and now my fork seals are leaking.

I've read the thread on using a film negative or tear off to clean under the seals, but I'm concerned about that as a fix for the long term. So I'm going to tear them down and clean them properly.

In the manual it indicates that the seals, piston metal, slide metal, and what looks like a rubber washer (no description in the manual) should all be replaced. So my question is...do these parts get damaged when the fork is disassembled?

I doubt there is enough wear to require replacement on anything but the seals (maybe).

Thanks.

-McNaughB

  • Ga426owner

Posted November 29, 2006 - 05:51 AM

#2

Hi All,

I have an 06 450 that has at most 20 hours of trail riding on it. Recently I did some VERY VERY muddy riding and now my fork seals are leaking.

I've read the thread on using a film negative or tear off to clean under the seals, but I'm concerned about that as a fix for the long term. So I'm going to tear them down and clean them properly.

In the manual it indicates that the seals, piston metal, slide metal, and what looks like a rubber washer (no description in the manual) should all be replaced. So my question is...do these parts get damaged when the fork is disassembled?

I doubt there is enough wear to require replacement on anything but the seals (maybe).

Thanks.

-McNaughB


At 20hrs you need to flush out the old oil and replace the stock seals - they are notorious for premature wear for a lot of us. Also go ahead and do the shock at the same time. Oil does go bad

  • SUnruh

Posted November 29, 2006 - 06:13 AM

#3

i did an oil test on golden spectro shock fluid. i flushed out the oem shock oil at 8.9 hours it looked and smelled horrid. the gs was then tested at 44.3 hours (35.4 hrs on oil) and it was analyzed. the test sample had a LOT of metals in it from wear. the oil itself was in good shape.

the film trick is a short term solution that turns into long term with lazyness.

  • 700MX

Posted November 29, 2006 - 06:30 AM

#4

Had the same thing happen on my 07 with low hrs. Try the Factory connection seals, several people reccomended them to me, and they work great. Make sure to fully flush the oil in the outer chamber oil, I had a ton of flakes from the slider bushing coatings.

try the kayaba yamaha oil in the metal can, it is not cheap, but you can be assured it will work well for you.

700

  • 700MX

Posted November 29, 2006 - 06:32 AM

#5

Hi All,

I have an 06 450 that has at most 20 hours of trail riding on it. Recently I did some VERY VERY muddy riding and now my fork seals are leaking.

I've read the thread on using a film negative or tear off to clean under the seals, but I'm concerned about that as a fix for the long term. So I'm going to tear them down and clean them properly.

In the manual it indicates that the seals, piston metal, slide metal, and what looks like a rubber washer (no description in the manual) should all be replaced. So my question is...do these parts get damaged when the fork is disassembled?

I doubt there is enough wear to require replacement on anything but the seals (maybe).

Thanks.

-McNaughB


Oh yea, and just worry about the seals!

700

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  • mcnaughb

Posted November 29, 2006 - 08:28 AM

#6

Thanks for the advice.

The manual says "Yamaha S1" oil, but it does not list the stock oil weight. Does anyone know the weight of the stock oil?

Thanks.

  • velosapiens

Posted November 29, 2006 - 08:52 AM

#7

I doubt there is enough wear to require replacement on anything but the seals (maybe).


chances are the seals don't need replacing either. what typically happens in mud (esp dezert mud that dries quickly) is some gets forced up past the first seal lip and tripped between the two lips of the seal. once enough gets in there it keeps the seal from sealing and oil comes out. on newer bikes i have had excellent luck just disassembling the fork, wiping out the seals, and reassembling with fresh oil. i have done this on WP forks as well as the traditional kayabas on a 2005 wr250f.

i would probably also recommend, as long as you have it apart, to undo the little spring that provides tension on the seal (it unscrews from itself), clip out about 1/2 cm, and screw it back together. that will provide a little more tension on the seal to seal better. i haven't noticed any increase in stiction from doing this.

on the ktm and wr250f forks this whole procedure takes about an hour, maybe 2 hrs the first time if you're looking at directions and scratching your head alot, and all it costs is the oil.

  • 700MX

Posted November 29, 2006 - 09:16 AM

#8

Thanks for the advice.

The manual says "Yamaha S1" oil, but it does not list the stock oil weight. Does anyone know the weight of the stock oil?

Thanks.


Yes, the S1 is the good stuff in the metal can.

  • MojaveThumper

Posted February 23, 2007 - 05:21 AM

#9

I just had this happen as well. Desert mud and all.

No special tools needed to get any compression pre-load on the springs or anything????

Try doing this myself next time.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 23, 2007 - 08:15 AM

#10

3 special tools are required. One is the 8-sided cap wrench, another is the octagonal base valve remover wrench, and then there's a 48mm seal driver.

See also:

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http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=473085

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=473979





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