1st Valve Check Report


38 replies to this topic
  • yz-dwg

Posted November 21, 2006 - 03:45 PM

#1

Hi all, I did the first valve clearance check on my '06 WR450 sat., I bought it new in Aug. and have put 300 miles on so far, valve cover removal was straight forward and fairly easy, the 2 outside intake valves were more than .103 and less than .127mm, the center intake was more than .127 and less than .156 (i have limited feeler gauges that read std. and metric), both exhausts were more than .206 and less than .256 (again with the lack of metric feeler guages), all valves were within tolerance but maybe on the tight side a little. I also installed the AIS removal kit and a PMB insert, took it for a test ride and holy cow what a difference, it seems to rev forever and makes alot more power down low, WOW, anyways for all of you who have put off checking your valves or are paying yama to do it, I would advise you to you it yourself, it was quick (about 3-4 hours with the mods) and easy, be sure to get a nice set of feeler gauges tho......see ya out there!

  • Fullbore4

Posted November 21, 2006 - 10:34 PM

#2

My dealer suggests going 600 miles before checking valves so you might check again when you get that many just to make sure they dont tighten up below spec on yah....thanks for the report.

  • Wasabi

Posted November 22, 2006 - 06:13 AM

#3

in spec is in spec.
the tighter they are, the more power you make!

  • Oasis_Flame

Posted November 22, 2006 - 12:35 PM

#4

Tighter is less power, your valve needs to fully seat in order to make power. The lash is there because of heat. Expanding metal closes the lash just alittle, all most down to no lash at running temps.

  • Wasabi

Posted November 22, 2006 - 02:59 PM

#5

Tighter is less power, your valve needs to fully seat in order to make power. The lash is there because of heat. Expanding metal closes the lash just alittle, all most down to no lash at running temps.


That's where you're wrong. If you are at the tighter end of the specs, you have more valve lift. More valve lift, the more power you make.

  • Thumper_426

Posted November 22, 2006 - 03:21 PM

#6

Thanks for the info. I have 306. miles on mine right now also. I asked them how much it will cost to check the valves for me, $187.00 if they need it, half hour charge if they don't. A friend from here has a guy who does it also, for less. I'm waiting to see if thats gonna happen soon or later or as time is near for riding again. With the temps being around -10 or so, its not a real priority right now.

'06 WR450F free mods for now

  • WR_Dave

Posted November 22, 2006 - 06:02 PM

#7

That's where you're wrong. If you are at the tighter end of the specs, you have more valve lift. More valve lift, the more power you make.

:cheers: I suggest that you set your valves all at zero lash and then you will have the most powerful WR in the Land!!!! 20 years of being a mechanic and I find out now that I've been doing valve sets wrong the whole time. Imagine how bad I must feel. :bonk: :p

  • 642MX

Posted November 22, 2006 - 06:08 PM

#8

That's where you're wrong. If you are at the tighter end of the specs, you have more valve lift. More valve lift, the more power you make.


Your not understanding that if the valve lash is too tight then the valve face will not make full contact with the seat, causing lower compression and less power. The cam profile was designed with the proper lash in mind. :cheers:

  • Wasabi

Posted November 22, 2006 - 06:38 PM

#9

Your not understanding that if the valve lash is too tight then the valve face will not make full contact with the seat, causing lower compression and less power. The cam profile was designed with the proper lash in mind. :cheers:

Thats why they have upper and lower limits to specifications..... :p
Set them to the lower limit = more power.

  • 642MX

Posted November 22, 2006 - 08:04 PM

#10

Thats why they have upper and lower limits to specifications..... :cheers:
Set them to the lower limit = more power.




Okay, you are right and we are all wrong. :bonk: :crazy: :worthy:



Is there one person from Australia that doesn't know it all??????? :p

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  • Fullbore4

Posted November 22, 2006 - 08:32 PM

#11

I would really like to know the truth here. You know, hot cams have more lift and put out a little more top end power so I am inclined to believe the guy from oz is right but I don't know. Perhaps Indy has an opinion? WRdave can you elaborate on why you think less clearance yields more power?

  • Wasabi

Posted November 22, 2006 - 10:14 PM

#12

Okay, you are right and we are all wrong. :p :bonk: :crazy:



Is there one person from Australia that doesn't know it all??????? :cheers:


I wouldn't be laughing.....

  • Wasabi

Posted November 22, 2006 - 10:29 PM

#13

I would really like to know the truth here. You know, hot cams have more lift and put out a little more top end power so I am inclined to believe the guy from oz is right but I don't know. Perhaps Indy has an opinion? WRdave can you elaborate on why you think less clearance yields more power?

Hahaha, I just told you the truth. :cheers:
You are right in saying about more lift = more power, hence if you set your clearances to min, you get more lift.

As for the hotcams, there is more to it than just the .2mm extra lift. The duration is also a lot different on the hotcams. I'll post a pic for you soon for a comparison, luck just has it that I just installed a set 2 days ago and I got to reshim one of the exhausts, so I got to pull it out anyway. :p

  • Fullbore4

Posted November 22, 2006 - 11:06 PM

#14

Hahaha, I just told you the truth. :cheers:
You are right in saying about more lift = more power, hence if you set your clearances to min, you get more lift.

As for the hotcams, there is more to it than just the .2mm extra lift. The duration is also a lot different on the hotcams. I'll post a pic for you soon for a comparison, luck just has it that I just installed a set 2 days ago and I got to reshim one of the exhausts, so I got to pull it out anyway. :p


hahahahahah, tell me something new. spec only has .002 inch range so I think I'll try for the mid point when I adjust my valves unless indy chimes in here.

  • Fullbore4

Posted November 22, 2006 - 11:34 PM

#15

:cheers: I suggest that you set your valves all at zero lash and then you will have the most powerful WR in the Land!!!! 20 years of being a mechanic and I find out now that I've been doing valve sets wrong the whole time. Imagine how bad I must feel. :bonk: :p


WRDave.......I didn't read your post close enough.......I didn't see you were being facetious.

  • Wasabi

Posted November 23, 2006 - 01:55 AM

#16

:p I suggest that you set your valves all at zero lash and then you will have the most powerful WR in the Land!!!! 20 years of being a mechanic and I find out now that I've been doing valve sets wrong the whole time. Imagine how bad I must feel. :crazy: :bonk:

Now you are just being stupid. :cheers:

  • WR_Dave

Posted November 23, 2006 - 05:03 AM

#17

Indy probably isn't chiming in due to he can't stop laughing about the tight valves = more power comment. Cam profiles are where the power is made not in the lift number. Larger cams with the correct profile can make more power in the RPM range they were designed for, but with the stock cam a valve set in the middle to looser end of the range will hold the compression just a fraction of a second longer producing a more powerful compression stroke and the side benefit is that it gives the valve more time to cool against the seat. This all happens in milliseconds but the cooling of the valve head helps stop it from sinking into the seat due to being overheated , which causes the valve clearance to TIGHTEN and loose power, but this will be called stupid by Wasabi in his next post. WR Dave:busted: :cheers:

  • MN_Paul

Posted November 23, 2006 - 06:32 AM

#18

What WR Dave is saying make more sense to me. On my Bandit with threaded adjusters, the gurus suggested setting them to the high end of the spec even though they made more noise. This altered the cam timing by a few degrees which made a little more power and also gave more margin to the valves tightening up with milage. It makes sense that a few degrees in valve/cam timing is much more noticible than a bit extra max lift.

Paul

  • 642MX

Posted November 23, 2006 - 07:48 AM

#19

I wouldn't be laughing.....


Why shouldn't I laugh? You think you know it all and the truth is you have no idea about what your talking about. :cheers: :p :bonk:

  • Wasabi

Posted November 23, 2006 - 03:14 PM

#20

Why shouldn't I laugh? You think you know it all and the truth is you have no idea about what your talking about. :cheers: :p :bonk:

You better do some more reading pal.
No Idea what I am talking about? talk to an engine builder if you don't believe me.




 
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