2007 WR450 Performance Mods



314 replies to this topic
  • clark4131

Posted November 20, 2006 - 11:11 PM

#1

Okie Dokie boys and girls...I've been waiting for notification of the first delivery of the new WR with the Reynolds Wrap frame :p, and it looks like we have a winner. So here we go with the new Modifications sticky. The 2006 mods post is still around, but I'm not keen on more than three indefinite stickies at a time as it tends to bog things up.

I'd appreciate it if you could keep this thread on topic, with as few hijacks as possible, as I'm sure it's going to become invaluable as the bugs are worked out of this new generation of WR's. I'll be keeping an eye on it as I do with the other sticky threads, but lets have some fun tearing into this new reitteration of our favorite bike and find out what really makes her rip. Game on :cheers:...SC

  • 520Roost

Posted December 03, 2006 - 10:55 AM

#2

Just got mine last week all i have done so far is. ais removal (yamaha kit)which came with Throttle stop,170main ,48pilot,air/fuel screw,(sold separate).opened air box .it wasnt to bad getting to the carb with the sub frame off and the shock off, which was off to grease the leakage (must do).just pull the bowl off to get the block out for the air screw.took out the pea shooter in the muffler,only rode it about 50 miles ,worked great in the so cal desert .the suspension was a little soft for big stuff but super smooth on trails. SWEET BIKE.

  • dangermouse007

Posted December 03, 2006 - 11:42 AM

#3

??????

just pull the bowl off to get the block out for the air screw

can someone explain this one please ???

  • 123BigcoopDawg576

Posted December 03, 2006 - 12:10 PM

#4

these carbs come with a small metal plate that covers the access to the fuel screw. you have to remove the poll and punch it out which is no big deal, supper easy. i had to do it to my 06 to add an after market fuel screw :worthy:

  • TWILES

Posted December 03, 2006 - 01:55 PM

#5

Just got mine last week all i have done so far is. ais removal (yamaha kit)which came with Throttle stop,170main ,48pilot,air/fuel screw,(sold separate).opened air box .it wasnt to bad getting to the carb with the sub frame off and the shock off, which was off to grease the leakage (must do).just pull the bowl off to get the block out for the air screw.took out the pea shooter in the muffler,only rode it about 50 miles ,worked great in the so cal desert .the suspension was a little soft for big stuff but super smooth on trails. SWEET BIKE.


Was the motor and handling really any different from the 05/06?

  • arizonachef

Posted December 03, 2006 - 04:33 PM

#6

can you tell me the part number on your ais kit my dealer gave me one but it might be for 06 no can tell me.

  • 520Roost

Posted December 03, 2006 - 06:36 PM

#7

mine was a GYTR KIT Model , GYT-5TJ93-69-00 FOR A 2005/ 2006 WR450same as wr 250 GYT-5UM93-69-01. This kit did not come with the air /fuel adjustable screw. same kit for 07 just follow instructions.

  • WR 911

Posted December 04, 2006 - 01:46 PM

#8

I picked up a 07 wr 450 Saturday and boy is it sweet! Mods and pics are soon to come. Yes, the suspension is soft and muffler is quiet.:worthy:
:D

  • Indy_WR450

Posted December 05, 2006 - 06:35 AM

#9

Wow! :D Sweet bike but it sounds like a real pain to get to the carb!:worthy: Cant wait for the EFI model.

  • 520Roost

Posted December 05, 2006 - 12:04 PM

#10

Was the motor and handling really any different from the 05/06?


I think this bike is totally different than past WRs. its a unfair comparision,it feels like a yz ,rides like a yz, just feels a bit heavier ,and seems like more torque,doest stall.it is really a yz with the button. PRETTY SWEET.:worthy:

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  • Looks450

Posted December 06, 2006 - 02:15 PM

#11

.it wasnt to bad getting to the carb with the sub frame off and the shock off, which was off to grease the leakage (must do).


Does the linkage have the solid lub in the bearings again. I tried to lub my last bearing, but the solid state lub wouldn't really let me get much grease in there. Am i doing something wrong.

Also have you checked your suspension fluid. I remember mine being more like radiator coolant than oil when i first got mine.

Cheers
Looks

  • joshbeene

Posted December 07, 2006 - 05:58 PM

#12

I just uncorked my 07 WR450 Also. Unbolting the subframe, removing rear shock, and loosending the clamp on the carb at the motor and air box helps a lot. The float bowl is held on by allen bolts instead of brass phillips screws, which is very nice. You can get the needle out if you take off the seat and tank. To remove the lid of the carb there is only two allens. I was not able to get the lid completely out of the bike, but out of the way. Once you have the lid out of the way, take out the #5 or #4 allen retainer and you can see the needle. To remove the pilot, I took off the float bowl, and then used the flat head screw driver bit from my cordless drill and stuck it up in the hole in front of the main jet. Once I had that bit up there, I use a very small wrench to turn the bit and loosen the Pilot jet. Once I had the Float bowl, I use a punch to tap out the little rivet looking piece that blocks your access to the air/fuel screw.

When I was removing the AIS stuff, I had difficulty getting to the inside bolt for the tubing that goes into the head. I had to drain the left radiator by removing the one bolt that held the down pipe into the head. I was able to access the allen bolt by loosening the left radiator bolts, mainly the bottom one, and inserting an 6 inch extension in between the frame and radiator. I had a allen socket that I put on the extension after I fed it through the radiator. Once the coolant was all out, I removed the down pipe, and was able to get the the inner allen bolt for the AIS pipe very easy.

The reason they want you to take off the AIS pipe that goes into the exhaust port is because you have to plug it. I had difficulty putting the two piece plug onto this pipe. I called the GYT-R Tech and he told me that the AIS kit for the 07 was not out yet, and I had one for the 06. To make that two piece plug work I cut off the flange and the end, used some high temp golden orange silicone and clamped on the plug. There may be a better way to do that, but that is what I did and it worked.

There is no Grey wire to cut!!!!! I cut the only wire that I thought was grey, and the bike did not run. Maybe they changed the color, but don't cut any wires till you hear from someone else.

You also don't cut out anything in the air box. I spent 30 minutes trying to dissasemble the airbox to find that out.

I rode the bike off road today for the first time and it ran great!!! I must have done something right.

  • msgbean

Posted December 07, 2006 - 10:34 PM

#13

I Just got mine this afternoon. Pictures are worth a thousand words so they say. To remove the air box pieces takes just removing 5 screws and pull it out. A lot easier than cutting the old ones.

These are the parts that come out
Posted Image

This is what it looks like after they are removed.
Posted Image

  • msgbean

Posted December 07, 2006 - 10:38 PM

#14

Her is a picture of the bottom of the float bowl. You can see the little aluminum plug that needs to be removed to get to the fuel screw. If you have the bowl off then just punch it out. You might be able to get something into the small hole and pry it out also.

Posted Image

  • msgbean

Posted December 07, 2006 - 10:48 PM

#15

To remove the small baffle from the muffler remove 6 allen screws and remove the end cap. Next drill out the two rivets holding the baffle in place (arrow). Use neddle nose pliers to pull it out.

Posted Image

  • msgbean

Posted December 07, 2006 - 10:51 PM

#16

The CDI is no longer on the frame so it is easy to remove the grey wire. It is located behind the left # plate. There are two blocks with 6 wires but only one has a grey wire. This block is located on the top (see arrow).

Posted Image

  • msgbean

Posted December 07, 2006 - 10:59 PM

#17

As you can see the carb is pretty tight. Believe me you will save yourself a lot of trouble and time by removing the shock to work on the carb. Its only 2 bolts and one minute worth of time.

Posted Image
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  • msgbean

Posted December 08, 2006 - 08:27 AM

#18

Since I had the carb apart i decided to make my own adjustable fuel screw. I took a piece of brass tubing that fits the screw perfectly (don't remember the size of the tubing, 5/52" I think). I drilled a hole in the brass tube to accept a piece of a nail and JB welded it all together

Posted Image

One note of caution. After removing the alunimum plug from the fuel screw hole you will probably find that the fuel screw threads won't go past the lip that held the plug in. I found this out after I put the bowl back on (which is a pain) and the screw wouldn't go in. I had to take the bowl back off and drilled out the hole to remove the lip. Now my adjustable fuel screw works great.

  • CSS9961

Posted December 08, 2006 - 08:33 AM

#19

:worthy: :D :prof:

Give this man some fuel!

  • msgbean

Posted December 08, 2006 - 08:35 AM

#20

This is a picture of everything I removed doing the mods. Total tonnage is 1 lb 11 oz.

Posted Image




 
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