Right foot peg Newb question Re: Torque value

4 replies to this topic
  • NAW

Posted November 20, 2006 - 09:46 PM


Anybody who has installled the 1x Int'l Right foot peg mod have a torque value for the lock nut on the front foot peg bolt? The directions said "Torque tightly" and I tried to match the stock rear foot peg bolt recommendation of 40 ft./lb.s (Per the manual) and stripped it - easily.

I guess I felt it coming, but the nut stripped way bafore a 40 lb. torque wrench release.

I will be going to the hardware store tomorrow for 3 or 4 ny-lock nuts so I can experiment prior to the weekend. But would like to know if anyone got all scientific (Charted the Torque value) with that install.


  • Adamsvh67

Posted November 21, 2006 - 02:32 PM


Didn't mention the size of the bolt, or if it has a locking-type nut. If bolt/nut both are replacable, get grade 5 or better and locking nuts. Don't want footpegs coming loose. If they're available, 40ft/lbs. will be fine. Using std. bolt, start about 20ft/lbs. and "sneek" up on a little by feel.
That's my 2 cents...

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  • Kritter

Posted November 24, 2006 - 09:11 AM


My kit i suggest 80 ft-lbs but I use better hardware then the kit you purchased.

  • motopsycho650

Posted November 25, 2006 - 09:00 AM


I had one of the right side bolts fall out. Luckily, I wasn't too far from camp.

I'm not sure about you mod kit. A little bit of blue Loc-Tight will solve the whole problem. Blue Loc-tight is removable if you need to take them apart again, but it will keep the bolts from coming out. Make sure any spacer washers are correctly located. I never messed with a torque wrench, I just used a standard size 3/8 ratchet until I thought it felt tight. I've been a mechanic, my arm is kind of like a torque wrench.

  • NAW

Posted November 29, 2006 - 12:01 AM


Thanks all. - I did exactly sneak it up to 40 ft/lbs - but used a different lock nut.

FYI Kritter - (I'm not a bolt expert) but the front bolt, allen type, just made it though a 7/16th hole. The source recommended an 8mm allen to assist screwing the allen bolt though. Turns out, it was not a metric interface. Had to go buy a Standard set to fit right. Also, the nut supplied was a lock-nut, but it was thinner like a jamb nut would be. The replacement nut I bought was standard width (Or thickness, or number of threads, whatever, hey, there's no M.E. after my name on my B. Card!) The one I bought looks like the nylon just barely interfaces the threads. I will check it after every ride - only been on one District 37 race since install so far and been too stiff and sore to check it yet - but if you want - I will let you know if it loosens. Product knowledge of the cometition for you perhaps? If it loosens, I will find my own spec. bolt to match, just a tad longer. And lock it up right. I will get 80 ft. pounds eventually.

I had read about your fix, but all I can say is I thought I would take the quick/easy/"always-in-stock"/factory way out, money-no-object, and was then disapointed with their lead-time. Live and learn. Spend more to get less.

As I recall - the tipping factor for my choice was sending in the core. I was on a schedule when I ordered and wanted it ASAP. I wanted my peg on the bike until I did the switch. I can't recall for sure, but my impression was send you the peg, and then you send Kritter version? Which may leave me W/O a peg for X amount of time? I could be wrong on that - but that was my impression, which might be worth taking into consideration - or not - up to you if you are making $$ on this.

ANyway - thanks!

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