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Reckluse Installation?


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I'd say try it without the perch adjuster first. The clutch is a lot smoother and easier to dial in without the perch adjuster. Set the install gap a little on the tight side and ride it. After a couple hours of break in time recheck the gap. Then if he still wants to try the adjuster at least he'll know what the clutch "should" feel like. I've gone back and forth with the perch adjuster and always end up back to the motor mount spring. Good luck with the install:thumbsup:

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I found that using 2 feeler gauges was the best way to accurately measure the gap. Use them on opposites sides of the clutch so you have a uniform gap all the way around. If you use only one feeler gauge, the plates can "tip" slightly making it difficult to get an accurate measurement.

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Do not loctite the little machine screws until you have set the gap correctly and are ready for final assembly.

Make sure you have an inch-pound torque wrench with a 4mm allen socket.

The installation is pretty easy, but take your time as you don't want to lose anything in the motor or have it fall apart while riding.

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Installation is complete and everything works great...thanks for the tips. By the way, after riding my buddy's bike with the Rekluse and experiencing firsthand how awesome the clutch is I am ordering one for my bike today!

The true secret to the clutch is being able to mount the rear brake lever onto the bars instead of the clutch lever.

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I'd say try it without the perch adjuster first. The clutch is a lot smoother and easier to dial in without the perch adjuster. Set the install gap a little on the tight side and ride it. After a couple hours of break in time recheck the gap. Then if he still wants to try the adjuster at least he'll know what the clutch "should" feel like. I've gone back and forth with the perch adjuster and always end up back to the motor mount spring. Good luck with the install:thumbsup:

How do you adjust and dial in the Rekluse without the perch adjuster? I'd like to save the $$ of buying a perch adjuster if possible.

Also, I like the idea of a rear brake lever on the bars but I wonder how that will affect me when I ride my other bikes...

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I disagree, even though having a rear brake on the bars could be advantageous under many circumstances. The key to the Rekluse is never having to manage, or worry about mismanaging, the clutch in really tight stuff.

oh no sir. that is just the first benefit.

the secondary one comes after you learn just how much traction can be gained by dragging the rear brake thru the corners and out of them. plus any where there are sharp bumps where the suspension isnt loaded going into them and acts like a pogo stick. It is amazing the overall speed you pick up from dragging the rear brake.

even my kid who prefers mx to woods was surprised when he figured it out too.

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I'd say try it without the perch adjuster first. The clutch is a lot smoother and easier to dial in without the perch adjuster. Set the install gap a little on the tight side and ride it. After a couple hours of break in time recheck the gap. Then if he still wants to try the adjuster at least he'll know what the clutch "should" feel like. I've gone back and forth with the perch adjuster and always end up back to the motor mount spring. Good luck with the install:thumbsup:

Now I'm getting conflicting information here...I talked to the guy at CRF's Only, and he said that it makes no difference if you use the motor mount spring or the perch adjuster - it operates the same. Yet I've read a few times on TT that it works better with just the case adjuster (motor mount spring).

Well, I'm buying one tomorrow so that I can try it over Thanksgiving -perch adjuster or no perch adjuster. :cheers:?

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Couldnt tell ya which is better, I put the perch adjust on to begin with. After a couple twists of the adjuster (it adjusts how long the clutch slips when taking off) I havent adjusted it since.

The theory is it allows you to adjust the slip duration for different terrains. some tracks really want you to slip the clutch coming out of the corners so it doesnt break loose others grip well enough that you can just get it on. The perch adjuster allows for track to track adjustment to be a cinch.

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How do you adjust and dial in the Rekluse without the perch adjuster? I'd like to save the $$ of buying a perch adjuster if possible.

The kit comes with 2 motor mount springs and a threaded adjuster. The softer spring engages earlier and quicker than the stiff spring. You can also purchase heavier balls to increase the clamping pressure.

I only trail ride my 450. I have my Rekluse setup to engage just off idle using the light spring (pulled tight), I also run 5 of the heavier (tungsten) balls. The clutch works awesome this way.

The perch adjuster works okay, but is not as smooth or consistent feeling as the motor mount setup. It may not be as noticeable with a higher engagement and slower clamp force, but with my setup the perch adjuster doesn't cut it. Besides, once I got the clutch and jetting dialed in, I really found no need to use the clutch lever.

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The reason the Rekluse doesnt work as well with the perch adjuster is due to the cable the spring operates thru. The cable offers quite a bit of resistance and with the springs being so light (not that a heavier spring would help) it just doesnt respond as well to adjustments. You can dial it in but it will be more difficult. I love the Rekluse and I use it in all conditions, track, trail or any other type of riding. It might not be for the pros but for us mere mortals it is the best!

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The true secret to the clutch is being able to mount the rear brake lever onto the bars instead of the clutch lever.

i must agree,i just put the hand brake on in the spring after 2 yrs with the clutch override....gotta say the brake is way better than the override,(i tried the override/brake combo perch but found that little clutch lever dang near useless) the hand brake makes HS courses much easier:thumbsup: engagement seems smoother and more consistant without the override.

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Hay mountainman did you ever try the std adjuster on your wr? I've double checked gap and I still get a slight drag feel with the perch adjuster when I come to a stop. If I pull the clutch and release it, seems to go away. Maybe my bike just doesn't want to come to a stop and wants to keep going!!

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Hay mountainman did you ever try the std adjuster on your wr? I've double checked gap and I still get a slight drag feel with the perch adjuster when I come to a stop. If I pull the clutch and release it, seems to go away. Maybe my bike just doesn't want to come to a stop and wants to keep going!!

i've tried all 3 ways;standard perch adjuster,dual brake/perch adjuster,and motor mounted spring. the motor mounted is by far the best feel, you might need a little more tension on the spring or the heavier one if your using the light one. also if your install gap is on the tight side it'll act that way. it might even be as simple as the wrong oil 15-40 rotella seems to work well for me(with 22C of course):cheers:

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I just finished installing mine using the motor mounted spring only. I have it set so that it engages right off of idle and there is only an almost imperceptable amount of drag at idle. I have not taken it out for a ride yet though...tomorrow!

My buddy has the perch adjuster on his and he gets a pretty good amount of drag at idle when he adjusts it to engage right above idle. Could it be that his clutch cable is a little sticky?

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