Any fix for the 06 CHAIN PROBLEM


26 replies to this topic
  • DPW

Posted November 14, 2006 - 08:06 PM

#21

I think it's bogus that they won't just sell you the slider you have to buy the ugly chain guide too.

A real bargain at only $139. :cheers:

Thanks for the info., but for what they want for it I'd have to pass.


You can buy just the TM slider at http://www.motosport.com/ for $80...

  • Treagan

Posted November 15, 2006 - 03:40 PM

#22

Mine had some wear after meticulous watching and lube at Dick Allen's Sierra Safari in Mammoth, CA. in oct. I have since gotten a Regina 0-ring chain. I will be putting steel impregnated epoxy putty (which is what JB weld is I think) in the small void made by the chain. It should wear better than aluminum, but the new chain also probably solved the problem.:cheers:

  • jamiehughes

Posted November 15, 2006 - 05:35 PM

#23

I think it's bogus that they won't just sell you the slider you have to buy the ugly chain guide too.

A real bargain at only $139. :cheers:

Thanks for the info., but for what they want for it I'd have to pass.


the front tm slider is to fix the problem with the factory one rubbing a hole in the rounded front of the swingarm,wont do anything for side chainslap on the subframe mounting bar. i'm pretty anal about keeping my wheel aligned and chain tensioned and i've still got enough wear there to notice it, i just chalked it up to being a big guy, doesn't seem to be hurting anything else, or making any weird marks on the top or side of the chain, so i'll just have to keep an eye on it. and the tm stuff is definetely worth the money and they do sell them seperately, check another store.

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  • JohnnyOfast

Posted November 16, 2006 - 08:26 AM

#24

,,,,,and the tm stuff is definetely worth the money and they do sell them seperately, check another store.


Yeah, I jumped the gun a little here. I already ordered a Renthal Chain and will watch it closely, if it does seem to cause me grief I will consider the TM product.

Thanks.

  • black_n_blue_thumper

Posted November 16, 2006 - 11:16 AM

#25

My favorite method is to use a straightedge along the rear sprocket all the way to the front. There are alignment tools that eliminate any need to remove the chain to do this by straddling it and pointing to the center of the chain. This method works very well, and makes the slightest misalignment very obvious.


Gray, sorry to be a little 'slow', but could you describe this one more time. Pretend you are trying to explain this to a total idiot, cuz you are:busted: I have the afore mentioned wear on my frame. I also have a nice aftermarket chain, properly adjusted, and I thought I was right on with my alignment, but I have been going only by the factory marks. Thanks for your help.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 16, 2006 - 02:49 PM

#26

Roll the chain off both sprockets and line the left (chain side) side up with any axle block mark. Then, clamp a verifiably straight bar or rod, long enough to reach to the front sprocket, to the side of the rear sprocket. Now move the right side of the axle fore and aft until the bar just touches the side of the front sprocket (on the same side as it is clamped to the rear. Then see what the alignment marks on the opposite side look like, and note any difference. Don't be afraid to re-mark the swing arm if you want a second, corrected set of marks.

This method will expose the smallest deviation at the rear wheel

  • black_n_blue_thumper

Posted November 16, 2006 - 07:53 PM

#27

Got it. Thank you. :cheers:





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