New 07 questions


16 replies to this topic
  • kents_504

Posted November 08, 2006 - 10:31 AM

#1

Okay so I went to the dealer yesterday and got the 0,0,0 12 deal and will be getting my 07 yz450f friday:p . I havent had a brand new bike since my 80 days and am pumped. Just have a few general questions though. What kind of oil are you guys runnin during break in? I know that the stock chain is junk what do you just suggest replacing it with? Also I know on the 06's that a lot of ppl messed with the jetting. Did yamaha fix any of this for 07 or should I go ahead and pick up some jets while im at the dealership.Thanks and if anyone has any other suggestion post em up.

  • WFOracer

Posted November 08, 2006 - 10:38 AM

#2

I ran non-synthetic in mine for break-in. There are additional friction modifiers in the synthetic oil that doesn't allow the ring to seat as well. Seems to work for me. I do a few heat cycles with it, change the oil and it's good to go. You bought a Yamaha, you have nothing to worry about :cheers:

  • Joe_Jet

Posted November 08, 2006 - 11:29 AM

#3

Break-in with the factory oil. 4 - 15" runs allowing to cool completely between; this is in the manual. I run Mobil1MX4T fully synthetic moto specific oil available at Wal Mart around $8 a qt. Change every 5 hrs with filter at 10. Run forks flush during suspension break-in to prevent headshake. After break-in check sag, 96mm seems pretty good. I ran my forks all the way up to the line. Bike turns bitchin and rails ruts and is very stable at high speed.

  • Joe_Jet

Posted November 08, 2006 - 11:32 AM

#4

Also, i had the bog when it was hot out, but fuel screw cleared it up.

  • kyle450rider

Posted November 08, 2006 - 01:28 PM

#5

Break-in with the factory oil. 4 - 15" runs allowing to cool completely between; this is in the manual. I run Mobil1MX4T fully synthetic moto specific oil available at Wal Mart around $8 a qt. Change every 5 hrs with filter at 10. Run forks flush during suspension break-in to prevent headshake. After break-in check sag, 96mm seems pretty good. I ran my forks all the way up to the line. Bike turns bitchin and rails ruts and is very stable at high speed.


I've ran the exact same oil in my last 3 fourstrokes.It's good stuff!

  • stoney55

Posted November 08, 2006 - 01:34 PM

#6

I ran stock oil for break in and the honda hp after that. bike runs great. had clutch problems with yamalube on a 250f and the honda oil fixed that. haven't had to change any stock settings yet other than some new pegs and a spark arrestor. coming from an 05 yz450 this bike is amazing.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 08, 2006 - 02:31 PM

#7

What kind of oil are you guys runnin during break in? I know that the stock chain is junk what do you just suggest replacing it with? Also I know on the 06's that a lot of ppl messed with the jetting. Did yamaha fix any of this for 07 or should I go ahead and pick up some jets while im at the dealership.

I dumped the factory oil fill when I got the bike home, threw away the oil filter, installed a new Scotts, and filled it with the same Amsoil MCF I always use. I recommend Regina ORN6 O-ring chains (I've had one on my '03 for over two years and adjusted maybe 3 times). Your bike will come with two main jets, probably a 160 and a 170. You may want a 48 pilot for when the weather cools off, but the bike has a 45 in it as delivered, which is larger than the '06 came with. Try it.

I ran non-synthetic in mine for break-in. There are additional friction modifiers in the synthetic oil that doesn't allow the ring to seat as well.

I don't want to step on anyone's toes here, but that's old school baloney, pure and simple. The rings will seat perfectly well on synthetic oil. As witness, every engine I build, and every new Corvette since around 1996, and all new Porsches.

http://www.thumperta...654#post3371654

  • YZ250F_Rider

Posted November 08, 2006 - 04:26 PM

#8

Dont the newer engines get diamond honed so the cylinder has the break in wear already wore into them? I dont believe they do that with the bikes.

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  • grayracer513

Posted November 08, 2006 - 05:04 PM

#9

New cylinders are cross hatched with a honing device, which in the case of Nikasil cylinders needs to be extremely hard in order finish the size, shape, and surface. But such pre-condition of the surface doesn't do the break-in for the parts involved, it only makes it happen sooner and more completely. The parts themselves must wear to match one another before they are truly "broken in".

  • YZ250F_Rider

Posted November 08, 2006 - 05:08 PM

#10

what I was talking about is the vettes using diamond honing to pre break in the cylinders so that they can use synthetic at initial running.

I dont believe any cylinder vendors for the bikes recommend using synthetic until the rings have seated. I believe that is because they dont have the final honing step like the vettes do.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 08, 2006 - 05:43 PM

#11

On the contrary, any cylinder must be honed after plating to establish it at a standard size.

Since the finished bore size is critical, there are only two options:

Bore it to a size slightly beyond that of the finished bore, plate it, and then finish hone to size. Or,

Bore it to a size slightly beyond that of the finished bore, hone the raw bore to put a finish on it, and then plate it very thinly, carefully controlling the uniformity and depth of the plating.

I won't rule out the possibility that cylinder vendors, which include Yamaha, have engineered a way to use the second option, but it seems unlikely unless the nikasil finish is less than .001" thick.

Either way, rings must wear to match the cylinder before they totally seal. The use of synthetic oils in no way interferes with that process if the engine is built correctly. That in itself is at least half of why modern engines break in so quickly. Rings and bores are made from much better materials and with a very much higher level of precision than was possible only 20 years ago. (Can you imagine if you had described a YZ450 engine to someone in 1987? And then said it would be one of the most reliable things ever made?)

  • YZ250F_Rider

Posted November 08, 2006 - 05:52 PM

#12

I am probably just stuck on the old wives tale of not using synthetics during break in. Everything you have said makes good sense.

  • mxracer206

Posted November 08, 2006 - 06:32 PM

#13

I think if you look, most oils now days are at least semi-synthetic. Grayracer has made some good point's that should ease your mind about the oil issue. I would be more concerned about the oil being a motorcycle oil designed for wet clutches than if it is synthetic or not. Motor technology and oils are developed hand in hand so it should not be an issue now.

Grayracer, interesting to reflect on 1987 and the new YZ at the same time, a lot to think on isn't it. I bet you remember when you could not change the rotation on your new radial tire's without seperating them.

  • kyle450rider

Posted November 08, 2006 - 07:35 PM

#14

On the contrary, any cylinder must be honed after plating to establish it at a standard size.

Since the finished bore size is critical, there are only two options:

Bore it to a size slightly beyond that of the finished bore, plate it, and then finish hone to size. Or,

Bore it to a size slightly beyond that of the finished bore, hone the raw bore to put a finish on it, and then plate it very thinly, carefully controlling the uniformity and depth of the plating.

I won't rule out the possibility that cylinder vendors, which include Yamaha, have engineered a way to use the second option, but it seems unlikely unless the nikasil finish is less than .001" thick.

Either way, rings must wear to match the cylinder before they totally seal. The use of synthetic oils in no way interferes with that process if the engine is built correctly. That in itself is at least half of why modern engines break in so quickly. Rings and bores are made from much better materials and with a very much higher level of precision than was possible only 20 years ago. (Can you imagine if you had described a YZ450 engine to someone in 1987? And then said it would be one of the most reliable things ever made?)


I agree with grey on this.Coming from the plating industry anytime you plate a cylinder you have to bore it.Grey is right about boring to establish a size but also because both the top and bottom will have more material than the middle.Basically it's the same as grey said i just wanted to add my wealth of knowledge.:)With any type of plating you will never get a perfectly smooth finish.It will always need some type of polish or line bore to make it perfect.

  • Joe_Jet

Posted November 29, 2006 - 09:41 AM

#15

I have 12 hours on the stock chain. I lube it every moto. in the 12 hours i have had to adjust the chain only one time. Just replaced the stock 756 so the chain will get adjusted again. Sprockets still look perfect. Jetting is good, but I did have to put the easily adjustable fuel screw on it to try and tune out the bog when its warm out. I have a feeling the jetting is set to run better with a pipe; I just ordered the FMF factory4.1 Ti slip-on. Also hope the pipe beefs up the bottom end. I am used to having instant power with the 450s as long as the motor is running! This bike kicks in at the lower mid and then starts a mellow wheely...very fun!

Ran the factory oil for the 4 15" break-in runs then changed filter and oil to Mobil 1 MX4t 10-40 mx specific fully synthetic oil. They recently changed the bottle a little; dropped MX4t name and changed label from red to blue, but its the same excellent oil. It is available at Wal-Mart!

Enjoy,

  • grayracer513

Posted November 29, 2006 - 11:23 AM

#16

I have 12 hours on the stock chain. I lube it every moto. in the 12 hours i have had to adjust the chain only one time. Just replaced the stock 756 so the chain will get adjusted again. Sprockets still look perfect.

Be sure to keep tabs on the pitch of the chain. Yamaha suggests the chain be discarded after it reaches 102.5% of it's specified length. The trouble with that is that the sprockets will have been damaged by running the chain that long. The other problem is that they reach that length before they run out of adjustment, so a lot of guys will run them even longer. Try to get rid of it before it goes over 101.5% if you want to reuse the sprockets.

Ran the factory oil for the 4 15" break-in runs then changed filter and oil to Mobil 1 MX4t 10-40 mx specific fully synthetic oil. They recently changed the bottle a little; dropped MX4t name and changed label from red to blue, but its the same excellent oil. It is available at Wal-Mart!

It's called Mobil 1 Racing 4T now. It's one of the only other oils I would consider besides Amsoil MCF of those I know about.

  • Derwud

Posted November 29, 2006 - 11:40 AM

#17

I dumped the factory oil fill when I got the bike home, threw away the oil filter, installed a new Scotts, and filled it with the same Amsoil MCF I always use. I recommend Regina ORN6 O-ring chains (I've had one on my '03 for over two years and adjusted maybe 3 times).
http://www.thumperta...654#post3371654



Agree 100%





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