can someone tell me the difference between rotors (standard & floating)

9 replies to this topic
  • robsgt

Posted November 05, 2006 - 06:53 PM


I'm trying to buy a new front rotor for my 06 450 and in the magazine I see standard rotors and full floating oversize rotors. I just want to get a standard rotor because I feel it is plenty strong but the standard rotors don't look like the floating kind and the one that came on my bike looks like the floating ones. Any thoughts?

  • grayracer513

Posted November 05, 2006 - 08:08 PM


Did you damage the stock rotor, or are you trying to buy a "wave" type? If your stock rotor is OK, what are you hoping to gain from replacing it?

  • mxracer206

Posted November 06, 2006 - 05:26 AM


If you are replacing the stocker for damage I would definately stay with a floating rotor. What they are calling a standard rotor means it is a one piece design, a floating rotor is a 2 piece design. The floating rotor will help keep the lever from getting mushy due to slight alignment problems that can occur with a solid rotor. If you really just wan't a trick rotor get a floating wave rotor, and if you wan't to do sick nose wheelies get an oversize floating wavy rotor kit.

  • 642MX

Posted November 06, 2006 - 07:09 AM


I have a non floating Braking Wave rotor on the front of my bike. I noticed significantly better braking response with it. The floating rotors move around too much and don't have direct feel that the non floater has.

  • Nashty

Posted November 06, 2006 - 07:31 AM


A floating rotor has a steel friction surface and a different material hub attachment part. It allows you to have a lighter rotor total weight but also seperates the friction surface from the center so it can expand and contract independently. You can also replace the friction surface and keep the center part. It helps prevent the rotor from warping too.

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  • grayracer513

Posted November 06, 2006 - 09:19 AM


The primary reason rotors are floated is to "unbind" the rotor surface itself from the central mounting section and the rest of the hub so that it can expand and contract with temperature changes and not be encouraged to warp by the constraints of the solid mounting to the hub. If it were simply a matter of wanting a lightweight center, that could be bolted to th e rotor. It is considerably more expensive and complicated to build rotors this way than as a "standard" type, which is why the standard Wave rotors are like that.

Normally, once hot, there is no detectable motion or looseness in a well made floater, and they will in fact self align with the caliper while in use to tune out any slight out-of-true conditions that might exist. That reduces caliper kick back, shortening lever travel and improving feel. In a comparison between two rotors made of the same materials and in good condition, you would be unable to tell by using the brake which was which, regardless of what anyone might say to the contrary. If heat warpage occurred, the fixed rotor would feel much worse.

Everything is a compromise to some extent. OEM rotors are made with a focus on acceptable performance and excellent durability, both against wear and against being bent by outside objects. Many of the aftermarket rotors use materials focused more on improving braking performance, but at the expense of shorter wear life of both rotors and pads. The result is the improved stopping power and feel that 642 mentions, and the trade-off in wear isn't intolerable, either.

If you don't brake hard all the time in racing situations, you will probably not miss having a floating rotor. A lot of people use the fixed Wave rotors, and like them. But floating rotors are a technically superior design, and are what is always chosen for situations where the brakes will be used heavily.

  • robsgt

Posted November 06, 2006 - 09:19 AM


Yeah I bent the stock rotor thats why I,m looking to replace it. I don't really need or want a fancy wave rotor just the best replacement for what was on it. I don't really need to improve braking perf. but I sure don't want to loose any. So whats the better replacement?

  • grayracer513

Posted November 06, 2006 - 09:36 AM


OEM Yamaha. about $150 (if an '04 will fit, and I think it does, TT OEM can get you one for much less)

GYT-R 270mm $176 (not a floater)


OR, look into one of the new '07 rotors. :mad:

  • robsgt

Posted November 06, 2006 - 06:07 PM


What about the ebc oversized kit. It's a full floating 280mm rotor with the repositioning bracket for $149.95. Any experiences with ebc stuff? Thanks guys.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 06, 2006 - 06:58 PM


Most of the EBC rotors that I know about are carbon steel instead of stainless, which means you'll have to keep the rust off. (no fair oiling your brakes :mad: )

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