Thinking about a new '04 YZ450F- advice?


26 replies to this topic
  • NM_KDX200

Posted October 31, 2006 - 03:09 PM

#21

Something big and blue followed me home this afternoon. :mad:

I went with the stock '04 450F. Immediately ordered an hour meter, ProTaper SE bars, stainless oil filter. Got home, rode the bike around my play track and I'm pleased. It's smoother than I expected, feels good, lots of power but very controllable, and so on. Maybe because it's MY bike, but I felt more comfortable on it than I did on the '06 I tested. Gonna spend the rest of the week breaking it in and getting used to it, then hopefully off to the track Sunday.

Thanks much for the advice. :mad:

  • flintlock28

Posted October 31, 2006 - 03:23 PM

#22

Make sure you get the sag set correctly, for the best performance/turning.

  • NM_KDX200

Posted October 31, 2006 - 07:44 PM

#23

I'll do that tomorrow. Probably raise the forks in the clamps a little, too. I'm pretty short at 5' 6" and every little 1/4" helps.:mad: Actually, the bike doesn't feel any taller than the KTM200sx I just sold and because the fender is horizontal instead of sticking out at 45 deg like the KTM, it's a lot easier to get on and off.

I'm off to research oils....

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  • sierra77

Posted November 01, 2006 - 08:02 AM

#24

Congrats on the bike. I've had my 04' for 2 years & have never had
a problem. For MX the gearing is fine, for trails you'll want the
lower gears(14/52) and the off road GYTR flywheel. Because it's
a MX bike, the first gear is tall & it will stall still. I put on a Rekluse
clutch & it's now awesome on the trails. These bikes like to stand
up out of turns, so you'll have to play with fork height etc. I
changed out the triple clamps to RG3 & it fixed my problems, not
to mention the 4 point mounted rubber mounts, no more vibration. I've
run AMSOIL since the bike was new, but you'll get many ideas.
I just checked out the valves and they're still perfect and it looks
new inside. I run the bike really hard & you can't beat Yamaha's, it's
been bullet proof for me. Make sure you lube the steering head &
suspension soon, the factory barely puts anything in there. Nice choice,
you'll love it. Have fun!!!!:mad:

  • Ga426owner

Posted November 01, 2006 - 08:38 AM

#25

I'll do that tomorrow. Probably raise the forks in the clamps a little, too. I'm pretty short at 5' 6" and every little 1/4" helps.:mad: Actually, the bike doesn't feel any taller than the KTM200sx I just sold and because the fender is horizontal instead of sticking out at 45 deg like the KTM, it's a lot easier to get on and off.

I'm off to research oils....


New bars, new chain are a must -
Stormlink will help it turn better/tighter
Disassemble all bearings and relube - steering/suspension/swingarm/wheels
739 tires only work on hardpack -
Congrats on your new ride:thumbsup:

  • TexN343

Posted November 01, 2006 - 11:46 PM

#26

I would have had the dealer jet it and set the sag for me. Put your money to work! The chain is trash and so is the sprocket if you decide to run anything other than a sealed chain. I immediately ate up both the stock chain and sprockets. Replaced the chain with x-ring and went to aluminum front and steel back sprockets. Rekluse is a must for perfect hole-shots and tight woods riding. I've been in love with the bike since I found Rekluse.

  • NM_KDX200

Posted November 02, 2006 - 04:50 AM

#27

I would have had the dealer jet it and set the sag for me.

Rekluse is a must for perfect hole-shots and tight woods riding. I've been in love with the bike since I found Rekluse.


1) he jetted it and I'll set the sag myself as I didn't have my gear with me when I picked the bike up. Since I'm average weight, I bet it's pretty close as is.

2) I neither race nor do tight woods riding so starts and clutches are way down on my list. Read the 1st post where I describe my riding...

If anything, the first major modification I'll do will be to lower the suspension! Given my height and the bike's height and the places and speeds I ride, I'd gladly trade 1" of travel for a lower seat height and COG via true lowering (not links or cut seats).





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