2-Stroke Wiseco Break In


39 replies to this topic
  • Honda125 358

Posted December 26, 2007 - 10:28 AM

#21

I just put a wiseco in. This dude knows his stuff, I'll be doing this procedure. 20+ years in the business, and is a 2 stroke hardcore guy. Hear nothing bad about him, EVER. Can't go wrong.

Proper way to break in a 2 stroke.

From Moto814

1) Assemble the engine properly and torque all fasteners to specs.

2) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature (top of the raidator hot to the touch). Do not allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), shut it off.

3) Let the engine cool completely (at LEAST one hour). You want the engine to be dead-stone cold. Longer is better.

4) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature (top of the raidator hot to the touch). Do not allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), shut it off.

5) Let the engine cool completely (at LEAST one hour). You want the engine to be dead-stone cold. Longer is better.

6) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature (top of the raidator hot to the touch). Do not allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), take the bike off the stand and put it in gear. Take it for a ride. During this ride you want to keep the engine under a load at all times. Do not coast. Do not let the bike idle. Do not allow the engine to stay at one RPM. Riding on a mild slope is fine for this, as is slightly dragging the rear brake the entire time. Do this for about 15-20 minutes. Then shut the bike off.

7) Let the engine cool completely (at LEAST one hour). You want the engine to be dead-stone cold. Longer is better.

8 ) Re-torque the head and base nuts.

9) Go ride.

The cool-down steps are crucial to this operation. You must let the engine cool completely for the break in process to work properly.

Also, do the warm up procedure I outline here before EVERY ride. Your top ends will last much longer if you do.

  • 2-stroker

Posted December 26, 2007 - 12:40 PM

#22

when i break it in can i use Belray MC-1 syn. oil?

  • new2blue450

Posted December 26, 2007 - 02:27 PM

#23

when i did the top end im my KX250 i just let it warm up, as usual with a smoker, and then rode it easy for about 15-20 and then rode it as i usually do. 10s of hours late no problems.

BTW i put the weisco light piston in.

  • Honda125 358

Posted December 26, 2007 - 02:32 PM

#24

when i break it in can i use Belray MC-1 syn. oil?


no, use a castor based oil for break in

  • 2-stroker

Posted December 26, 2007 - 02:47 PM

#25

will something go wrong with the bike if i use synthetic?

  • Honda125 358

Posted December 26, 2007 - 03:06 PM

#26

will something go wrong with the bike if i use synthetic?



no sir, but castor based is recomended

  • loaf_1

Posted December 26, 2007 - 03:25 PM

#27

I had a 2002 Yammi Blaster 200 air cooled two stroke and a crank bearing seized so i got it replaced with a stock crank assembly and piston , rings and such, It was oil injected so i mixed the gas in the tank also just to make sure it was getting oil, i started it first time and RODE IT LIKE I STOLE IT for a little over a complete year, put about 200+ hours on the engine and never had to touch it again, i think i only changed the oil once and a couple spark plugs, I also used the blaster in the snow and you have it 3/4 open throttle or WFO throttle the whole time and it never let me down, I sold it to a younger lad and it gets babied and his dad replaced the piston only because he put the big bore kit on it, i couldnt believe the reliability

  • 2-stroker

Posted December 26, 2007 - 03:29 PM

#28

if they have castor oil at the shop ill get it but if not is mc-1 okay. i used that in my kx80

  • 2loudpipes

Posted December 26, 2007 - 04:39 PM

#29

http://pingertalk.co...53672#post53672


neto. it did not know there was such a thing a pinger talk

  • Loopy

Posted April 29, 2011 - 08:03 AM

#30

Hey guys, just reviving the thread here. A quick question. Is there anyway to do a break in at home? I'm about to do a top end and would prefer to break the bike in at home instead of using one of my very rare ride days to break it in. Thanks.

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  • XpressCS

Posted April 29, 2011 - 10:27 AM

#31

Hey guys, just reviving the thread here. A quick question. Is there anyway to do a break in at home? I'm about to do a top end and would prefer to break the bike in at home instead of using one of my very rare ride days to break it in. Thanks.


Quite honestly, no, there's no easy way, other than to ride the bike. Break-ins need to have load on the engine, as well as the airflow from the bikes forward movement to keep it cool.

Static loads on the engine cause more heat from the lack of airflow. More heat, especially during break in, isn't good for the engine.

  • Loopy

Posted April 29, 2011 - 11:33 AM

#32

Well I had forgotten that I have a friend that has a backyard where I can break it in. :thumbsup:

  • SilvFx

Posted April 29, 2011 - 01:18 PM

#33

Loopy,

I just rode it on the street for break-in. The heat cycles are only about 5-8 mins each and you are riding pretty slowly but varying the rpm (yeah....i know its 'illegal').

  • Oic0

Posted April 29, 2011 - 01:57 PM

#34

Shop I learned a lot at had a slightly different procedure. They put in the piston and rings wiped clean of almost all lube and turn it over by hand for a while to sort of lap the rings with the honed cylinder grooves. Then the normal heat cycle thing, then basically jetting the bike starting at the idle circuit. By the time jetting is spot on the bike is broken in.

  • Wiseco

Posted May 09, 2011 - 10:12 AM

#35

Each time I do a fresh top end, I treat the engine like it just had surgery. I start by starting the bike and revving it slow and low on the stand while listening for bangs, clanks, or circlips popping out (fortunately none of these have ever happend to me!). After that, I warm it up, then go for a slow, steady ride with varying RPM's below 1/3 throttle. I check for leaks and inspect the fluid levels. Then I go out for an easy ride for 10-15 minutes, while varying the RPM's, but never really going much over 2/3 throttle. After another inspection for fluid leaks, bangs, and clanks, I go ride like normal. Again, I pretty much treat it like it is my first time out on a sprained ankle or something. Easy at first, and then lean on it progressivley once you know you are good to go.

Break in procedures have nothing to do with work hardening or tempering the aluminum in a piston BTW. It is all about seating the rings and getting them to mate properly with the bore under varing load conditions at first until everything is seated in. With that said, the debate on break in procedures is about as long as the debate on cast vs forged, so just know there are pros and cons to the various methods, as well as plenty of misinformation floating around. When all else fails, read the service manual and do what it says. . .

  • terrobelone

Posted May 09, 2011 - 03:16 PM

#36

long story short ..ALWAYS WARM IT UP !!! then go for a chug , check, blip, check ..ROOST IT!!!

  • Wiseco

Posted May 09, 2011 - 03:44 PM

#37

long story short ..ALWAYS WARM IT UP !!! then go for a chug , check, blip, check ..ROOST IT!!!


That about sums it up. . .

  • choppertown

Posted May 09, 2011 - 08:17 PM

#38

after you warm it up, and let it cool and re-check yur tourqu valuse..ride it like you stoll it.

  • Loopy

Posted May 10, 2011 - 09:05 AM

#39

Well I did 2 heat cycles without really revving and then putted around a bit in the parking lot where I ride and let it cool for about an hour. I then did the main loop with no more than 1/2 throttle and let it cool. I didn't really vary the RPM though unfortunately. But at the end of the day my silencer fell off and I put it back on, started it up but stalled. I keep kicking but it just wouldn't start, I think the airflow change may have fowled the plug. :thumbsup: At least I hope so.

  • Greg Y

Posted May 10, 2011 - 04:48 PM

#40

as much as people worry about pistons seating and all, I worry more about an air lock in the coolant. I like to do a soak and check the fluids....then as soon as that is cleared up......I am riding a dieing engine at that point, why waste it putting around?





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