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2-Stroke Wiseco Break In



40 replies to this topic
  • Yamajeb

    TT Gold Member

1,164 posts
Location: Kentucky

Posted October 24, 2006 - 07:41 PM


I'm getting ready to put in a Wiseco in my KDX220. I've heard different techniques for proper break-in: the steady-incrementally increase the load method and the hit-it-hard-right-off-the-bat method.

Which is gonna be better for a 2-stroke that's getting a Wiseco forged piston?

  • frankstr

    TT Titanium Member

2,125 posts
Location: Oregon

Posted October 24, 2006 - 07:42 PM


Ride it , Like you stole it....:mad:

  • clintb

    TT Newbie

20 posts
Location: Texas

Posted October 24, 2006 - 08:39 PM


I always warmed up the bike really good then shut her down, Wait until cool then repeat. Once cool again take a couple of easy laps then let it cool again. Then ride it like you stole it.

  • gunner150

    TT Platinum Member

1,942 posts
Location: California

Posted October 24, 2006 - 09:11 PM


The "ride it hard" technique is for 4 strokes ONLY!!! They have an oil ring that needs to seat properly. A 2 stroke on the other hand, needs to be broken in EASY.

  • Tooliemxer

    TT Platinum Member

1,665 posts
Location: Ontario

Posted October 24, 2006 - 10:34 PM


Ist ride of the day 1/4 throttle for 15 min let bike cool down-check bolts for tightness
2nd 1/2 throttle for 15-20 min let bike cool down-check bolts
3rd 3/4 for 15-20 let bike cool down-check bolts
4th -go nuts
I do this on both 2 and 4 stroke.
BTW-both type of engines need the rings to seat -it helps form better compression and rings wear more even keeping the cylinder bore round.:mad:

  • Yamajeb

    TT Gold Member

1,164 posts
Location: Kentucky

Posted October 25, 2006 - 08:40 AM


Ist ride of the day 1/4 throttle for 15 min let bike cool down-check bolts for tightness
2nd 1/2 throttle for 15-20 min let bike cool down-check bolts
3rd 3/4 for 15-20 let bike cool down-check bolts
4th -go nuts
I do this on both 2 and 4 stroke.
BTW-both type of engines need the rings to seat -it helps form better compression and rings wear more even keeping the cylinder bore round.:mad:


Can you tell when the rings seat? I've heard that it's noticeable.

  • Tooliemxer

    TT Platinum Member

1,665 posts
Location: Ontario

Posted October 25, 2006 - 09:34 AM


You can't tell-I've broke in many engines and have never noticed a difference except when you go a bigger bore and you notice that right away. For whomever told you that ,it must have been phycological.

  • PGer555

    TT Gold Member

1,233 posts
Location: Pennsylvania

Posted October 25, 2006 - 11:15 AM


http://pingertalk.co...53672#post53672

  • motomandan

    TT Bronze Member

261 posts
Location: Washington

Posted October 25, 2006 - 11:29 AM


When breaking in a 2 stroke the most import part of the break in has nothing to do with the rings. it's actually the piston skirt. you hear the people talk about warm up let it cool several times. Well this is correct, however it is to work harden the lower portion of the piston skirt and form fit it to your cylinder. Under high RPM the skirt will flex, and more so when new and prior to work hardening. If over rev'd prior to break in, you can damage the piston, and cause metal blurring. have you ever pulled an engine down, and you see the piston skirt has blurred or torn metal. look at it with a strong magnifier, and you can see the damage. Low RPM's, not riding, just above idle until the engine is completely warm, let it cool completely, do this twice, then ride about 15 minutes without over revving. after that you are good to go.

  • Sticky Throttle

    TT Silver Member

653 posts
Location: California

Posted October 25, 2006 - 05:10 PM


Ist ride of the day 1/4 throttle for 15 min let bike cool down-check bolts for tightness
2nd 1/2 throttle for 15-20 min let bike cool down-check bolts
3rd 3/4 for 15-20 let bike cool down-check bolts
4th -go nuts
I do this on both 2 and 4 stroke.
BTW-both type of engines need the rings to seat -it helps form better compression and rings wear more even keeping the cylinder bore round.:mad:


This is a safe method.Also when ever you start the bike,warm it up slowly.I see so many guys start their bike cold and rev the piss out of it.to warm it up quickly.The engine heats at different rates,mainly the cylinder and the case.If you rev out the bike when its cold it's possible to get base gasket leaks.

  • liv2ride626

    TT Silver Member

699 posts
Location: California

Posted October 25, 2006 - 08:24 PM


I just got done doing the final break in cycle on my 200. Its amazing what a new top end can do for the feel of a bike.

  • Yamajeb

    TT Gold Member

1,164 posts
Location: Kentucky

Posted October 26, 2006 - 01:49 AM


I just got done doing the final break in cycle on my 200. Its amazing what a new top end can do for the feel of a bike.


What kind of break in did you use?

  • Yamajeb

    TT Gold Member

1,164 posts
Location: Kentucky

Posted October 26, 2006 - 01:56 AM


This is a safe method.Also when ever you start the bike,warm it up slowly.I see so many guys start their bike cold and rev the piss out of it.to warm it up quickly.The engine heats at different rates,mainly the cylinder and the case.If you rev out the bike when its cold it's possible to get base gasket leaks.


I'd agree with your comment about warm up. I've researched this break in topic a bit and found some interesting suggestions on Eric Gorr's site (one of the engine gurus for those who don't know). He goes as far as to suggest that when warming up use minimal RPMs by managing your choke.

Great stuff, guys. This is a "controversial" topic, but generally it seems like I should use at least a few "easy" cycles before business as usual.

  • liv2ride626

    TT Silver Member

699 posts
Location: California

Posted October 26, 2006 - 11:48 AM


What kind of break in did you use?


I did heat cycles with no load on the engine then took her out and ran it easy for about 20 mins. Make sure you let it cool down completely inbetween heat cycles (hour or so depending on the weather)

  • 2-stroker

    TT Silver Member

899 posts
Location: Pennsylvania

Posted December 26, 2007 - 07:14 AM


im trading my bike for a 125 and it has a new top end with a weisco piston. am i aloud to just start it up and see if it runs before i trade or will that mess up the engine if i dont break it in that day? thanks

  • hondarocks61

    TT Bronze Member

292 posts
Location: Massachusetts

Posted December 26, 2007 - 07:24 AM


im trading my bike for a 125 and it has a new top end with a weisco piston. am i aloud to just start it up and see if it runs before i trade or will that mess up the engine if i dont break it in that day? thanks


just start it up and see how it runs.:banghead:

  • 2-stroker

    TT Silver Member

899 posts
Location: Pennsylvania

Posted December 26, 2007 - 07:26 AM


yea it shouldnt hurt it right? because when you break it in you want it to be cool for the next cycle. itll be even better a week or so of cooling.

  • hondarocks61

    TT Bronze Member

292 posts
Location: Massachusetts

Posted December 26, 2007 - 07:38 AM


yea it shouldnt hurt it right? because when you break it in you want it to be cool for the next cycle. itll be even better a week or so of cooling.


lol yeah itll be fine.:banghead:

  • old-n-sloow

    TT Silver Member

653 posts
Location: California

Posted December 26, 2007 - 07:58 AM


im trading my bike for a 125 and it has a new top end with a weisco piston. am i aloud to just start it up and see if it runs before i trade or will that mess up the engine if i dont break it in that day? thanks


Careful here. I bought a bike once that had a "new top end". The owner wouldn't let me run it hard and like a duma$$ I bought it anyway. First ride the motor blew, upon teardown it was obviously a very old piston.

I'd tell the owner that he needs to break it in before you buy it.

  • veloc1ty

    TT Gold Member

1,380 posts
Location: Texas

Posted December 26, 2007 - 09:51 AM


Heat cycle is what I used for my Wiseco top end. I remember reading something about their pistons being forged rather than cast? (stock) so the pistons need to be properly warmed up better.





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