GYTR clutch kit problem PLEASE HELP


52 replies to this topic
  • XR250_RIDER_14

Posted October 27, 2006 - 07:54 AM

#21

The actuator arm that I got was probably atleast an inch longer than the one that came out of my 03.

  • grayracer513

Posted October 27, 2006 - 08:25 AM

#22

The actuator arm that I got was probably atleast an inch longer than the one that came out of my 03.

Then it's the wrong part. David's info is accurate.

  • XR250_RIDER_14

Posted October 27, 2006 - 08:57 AM

#23

Hmmmm what does that mean then. The GYTR actuator arm was atleast an inch longer than the one that I took out of my yz. The top part that would make it an easier clutch pull is the same on both, but the new one rises up instead of the old one going down.

My clutch pull is really hard. and as far as I know everything is working alright. Is it because of the new springs That I installed? Will I be okay if I put the yamaha ones back in or should I stick with the new Barnett springs.

And one more question what was the point of the first 3 plates in the GYTR kit. The beveled spring plate and clutch boss plate with the larger diameter friction plate. The ones that you install first.

  • XR250_RIDER_14

Posted October 27, 2006 - 09:00 AM

#24

And I cant get it to stop creeping on me I havent had a chance to ride it yet though. It wont stop raining. And I have a broken clavicle.

  • XR250_RIDER_14

Posted October 27, 2006 - 09:02 AM

#25

Do I have to install the new actuator arm. You say that its the wrong part and the top part is just as long on both of them so they have the same leverage right. Does the new acuator arm engage the clutch more making up for my creeping problem?

  • grayracer513

Posted October 27, 2006 - 09:29 AM

#26

If the shaft portion is longer, it is the wrong part, and is not for an '03 YZ450. The '03 actuator is unique among all the model years.

The purpose of the bevel spring is to prevent clutch grab by making the clutch pack compress the bevel spring before full pressure can be applied to it. That makes the clutch engagement smoother. The bottom plate has a larger inner diameter to accomodate the bevel spring.

  • XR250_RIDER_14

Posted October 27, 2006 - 09:43 AM

#27

I really want a smooth and easier pull on my bike. I was at the local dealer yesterday and I was feeling the clutches on the new yz's and even a used one outside that had a a/m perch on it. HOW CAN I MAKE THE PULL EASIER.

What should I do about the actuator arm if it is the wrong part? Will I be okay using the stock one? What is the right part supposed to look like. Is there a picture that shows the stock one compared to the a/m correct one?

should I take it back to the dealer?

  • grayracer513

Posted October 27, 2006 - 09:56 AM

#28

HOW CAN I MAKE THE PULL EASIER.

What should I do about the actuator arm if it is the wrong part? Will I be okay using the stock one? What is the right part supposed to look like. Is there a picture that shows the stock one compared to the a/m correct one?

should I take it back to the dealer?

Take it back, and have him check the part number of your kit. The arm portion on the GYT-R is slightly longer to reduce pull effort.

Another possibility, although it seems unlikely, is that you don't have an '03. The internal clutch copmponents will interchange over most of the 426/450 production range, but the '03 YZ 450 is the only one of the 450's in which the clutch cable came in behind the cylinder and entered a 90 degree routing tube at the engine. Later ones came down the front frame tube on the left side. Use the stock one if you can't get it figured out.

Also, I would ditch the Barnett springs and run Hinsons or Yamaha OEM.

  • XR250_RIDER_14

Posted October 27, 2006 - 10:08 AM

#29

Why do you say I should ditch the barnett springs. They were $20. Would it be okay to use the stock ones that arent new on it? If so Can I switch them without taking out all of the oil? I just changed the oil last night (Castrol with syntec 10w-40) some new kind of motorcycle oil, thinking I wouldnt have any more problems. You cant switch get the actuator arm without removing the push rod either. I think Ill just use the old arm since I know I wont have any luck with the dealer. And keep the barnetts in until the next oil change and see if I cant get used to the harder pull. Is there anything I can do to make my pull smoother? Im gonna lube the cable.

  • Ga426owner

Posted October 27, 2006 - 11:02 AM

#30

The actuator arm that I got was probably atleast an inch longer than the one that came out of my 03.


it should not be....
is it this part #
http://www.yamaha-mo...2/0/detail.aspx

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Ga426owner

Posted October 27, 2006 - 11:11 AM

#31

Hmmmm what does that mean then. The GYTR actuator arm was atleast an inch longer than the one that I took out of my yz. The top part that would make it an easier clutch pull is the same on both, but the new one rises up instead of the old one going down.

My clutch pull is really hard. and as far as I know everything is working alright. Is it because of the new springs That I installed? Will I be okay if I put the yamaha ones back in or should I stick with the new Barnett springs.

And one more question what was the point of the first 3 plates in the GYTR kit. The beveled spring plate and clutch boss plate with the larger diameter friction plate. The ones that you install first.


I believe my 03 stock arm was pretty much identical to the GYTR part - the top may be different(longer) but the length is the same
I know nothing about Barnett springs, I replaced with OEM - Hinsons are good too - maybe even better than OEM, for easier pull - I would want easier clutch pull so ditch the Barnett
The point of these plates - they were 2002 426 parts that elleviate the 03 clutch issue of clutch chatter that plaqued almost every 03 450

  • Ga426owner

Posted October 27, 2006 - 11:14 AM

#32

Take it back, and have him check the part number of your kit. The arm portion on the GYT-R is slightly longer to reduce pull effort.

Another possibility, although it seems unlikely, is that you don't have an '03. The internal clutch copmponents will interchange over most of the 426/450 production range, but the '03 YZ 450 is the only one of the 450's in which the clutch cable came in behind the cylinder and entered a 90 degree routing tube at the engine. Later ones came down the front frame tube on the left side. Use the stock one if you can't get it figured out.

Also, I would ditch the Barnett springs and run Hinsons or Yamaha OEM.


exactly what I was thinking....is it a 03 bike?

  • Ga426owner

Posted October 27, 2006 - 11:20 AM

#33

Why do you say I should ditch the barnett springs. They were $20. Would it be okay to use the stock ones that arent new on it? If so Can I switch them without taking out all of the oil? I just changed the oil last night (Castrol with syntec 10w-40) some new kind of motorcycle oil, thinking I wouldnt have any more problems. You cant switch get the actuator arm without removing the push rod either. I think Ill just use the old arm since I know I wont have any luck with the dealer. And keep the barnetts in until the next oil change and see if I cant get used to the harder pull. Is there anything I can do to make my pull smoother? Im gonna lube the cable.


send them back....they are too stiff - I paid 15 for OEM.s
Yes just lean the bike over on it's side - to replace springs/plates etc...

Did you replace the cable? You need to adjust the cable to fix the creep....it is out of adjustment

  • XR250_RIDER_14

Posted October 27, 2006 - 03:09 PM

#34

Alright! If you say that the a/m actuator arm was as long as the stock 03 one then it is for sure the wrong part. Im really pissed off because the dealer wont help me at all. What the hell am I supposed to say. They dont care. The part number for my kit is the same one as the yamaha website! What other arm would I need! It pretty much says on the directions throw away the arm if its not an 03. How could Yamaha have made a mistake like that??

Should I buy new OEM springs or can I use the old ones???? I dont know what would make them need to be replaced.

I adjusted my clutch cable. I had to make it REALLY tight to make it not creep but the weird thing is it engages really well. Usually when you make the clutch so tight it wont engage until its all of way the out and it will make the clutch slip and ruin it. Thats what I did with my XR280 (badass XR). It engages at about half pull. Perfect

By the way thanks for explaining how to change the springs without draining oil!:mad:

  • grayracer513

Posted October 27, 2006 - 03:26 PM

#35

Look at the clutch section of the manual. It outlines how to tell when the clutch springs need replacing by measuring their length. If they are OK, reuse them.

Does your cable run behind the cylinder, to the right of the carb?

  • Ga426owner

Posted October 27, 2006 - 04:57 PM

#36

Alright! If you say that the a/m actuator arm was as long as the stock 03 one then it is for sure the wrong part. Im really pissed off because the dealer wont help me at all. What the hell am I supposed to say. They dont care. The part number for my kit is the same one as the yamaha website! What other arm would I need! It pretty much says on the directions throw away the arm if its not an 03. How could Yamaha have made a mistake like that??

Should I buy new OEM springs or can I use the old ones???? I dont know what would make them need to be replaced.

I adjusted my clutch cable. I had to make it REALLY tight to make it not creep but the weird thing is it engages really well. Usually when you make the clutch so tight it wont engage until its all of way the out and it will make the clutch slip and ruin it. Thats what I did with my XR280 (badass XR). It engages at about half pull. Perfect

By the way thanks for explaining how to change the springs without draining oil!:mad:


XR did the new GYTR arm come sealed in the package with the Clutch plates? (plastic wrapped and sealed) It should have...

Are you adjusting the cable with the 8mm wrench (3-5 inches from the perch) or adjusting at the clutch perch?

You replaced almost everything...replace the springs with new...it is only 15 bucks

and to Greys point where did your cable route...lets make sure you have a 03 and not some other year bike

  • XR250_RIDER_14

Posted October 27, 2006 - 08:14 PM

#37

The GYTR was sealed in the package in the middle of all of the plates (plastic wrapped and sealed)

I am adjusting the clutch at the motor by the actuator arm with a 12 mm wrench. (There are 2 12 mm nuts) and fine tuning it at the clutch perch.

I guess I will replace the springs. Can I get hinsons from the dealers or should I just get stock OEM springs?

My cable from the perch goes down the frame where the oil is and then goes around the front of the head on the left all the way to the actuator arm by the front sprocket and case saver.

  • mikedabike

Posted October 28, 2006 - 07:35 AM

#38

Doesn't the 03 cable go down the right side the cross over to the left across the motor?

  • grayracer513

Posted October 28, 2006 - 08:08 AM

#39

My cable from the perch goes down the frame where the oil is and then goes around the front of the head on the left all the way to the actuator arm by the front sprocket and case saver.

That does not sound like an '03. The '03 cable runs along the frame top tube, over the engine, and down behind the cylinder to the right of the carb, where it meets the "L" bent anchor tube/adjuster. The actuator arm sits nearly parallel to the chain.

Later models route the cable down the front of the frame in front of the engine and along the left side of the cylinder to a simple anchor. The cable is threaded and has a nut on either side of the anchor. The release arm points roughly crossways over the engine cases.

Are your forks a pale gold color, or a silver-gray, natural machined aluminum color?

  • Ga426owner

Posted October 28, 2006 - 11:12 AM

#40

That does not sound like an '03. The '03 cable runs along the frame top tube, over the engine, and down behind the cylinder to the right of the carb, where it meets the "L" bent anchor tube/adjuster. The actuator arm sits nearly parallel to the chain.

Later models route the cable down the front of the frame in front of the engine and along the left side of the cylinder to a simple anchor. The cable is threaded and has a nut on either side of the anchor. The release arm points roughly crossways over the engine cases.

Are your forks a pale gold color, or a silver-gray, natural machined aluminum color?


I am in agreement that this ain't no 03............





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