replacing cylinder gasket


13 replies to this topic
  • 5valve

Posted October 20, 2006 - 05:07 AM

#1

Anyone tried replacing cylinder gasket without replacing head gasket?

I've noticed engine oil oozing slowly in front of the cylinder, seems like a deformed gasket, which was replaced new not long ago.

Id like to remove the head and cylinder simultaniousely, at first loosing 4 small head bolts, than 4 big ones, than torqueing small again, just to hold head and cyl together, removing both (if at all possible due to limited area above head)

maybe it would be sufficent just to rise the cyl a bit, to make room for heat resistant sealant paste.

  • GCannon

Posted October 20, 2006 - 08:17 AM

#2

"I never have time to do it right the first time, But I always have time to do it again":bonk:
Make it perfect then ride it!:devil:

  • tshe1

Posted October 21, 2006 - 11:52 AM

#3

why not replace the head gasket? it is only about 24$.
you don't have enough room to pull them both, you have to remove the timing chain guide and timing chain.
why to do just 90% of the job?

  • 5valve

Posted October 22, 2006 - 05:51 AM

#4

head gasket 50$.
replaced it two months ago.
will have ro replace it soon, for cylinder re-nikasiling.

Id like to fix this minor defect (bike is still usable, oil loss is minor), just for optical issues...oily engine, looks like everything is falling apart.

It is no problem to remove the cams and let the chain fall into the engine...they do not connect to head&cyl assembly.

All that concenes me is that if I would get a head gaket blow-by if loosened and retorqued, but never actually phisically removed from between head and cylinder and all the time applied with at least minor bolt force.

  • tshe1

Posted October 23, 2006 - 08:18 AM

#5

head gasket 50$.
replaced it two months ago.
will have ro replace it soon, for cylinder re-nikasiling.

Id like to fix this minor defect (bike is still usable, oil loss is minor), just for optical issues...oily engine, looks like everything is falling apart.

It is no problem to remove the cams and let the chain fall into the engine...they do not connect to head&cyl assembly.

All that concenes me is that if I would get a head gaket blow-by if loosened and retorqued, but never actually phisically removed from between head and cylinder and all the time applied with at least minor bolt force.


what year and bike do you have?
in the TT-SHOP my cylinder head gasket is about 24$-for WR426F 2001.

  • 5valve

Posted October 23, 2006 - 09:55 AM

#6

I have 99 400.
It probably is cheaper in tt store, but postal expenses to EU would probably level the price.

  • 642MX

Posted October 23, 2006 - 01:35 PM

#7

You can reuse a head gasket, but you shouldn't. But if you do, Permatex makes some spray called Copper Coat. Paint the copper coat on both sides of the gasket and install the gasket just when the CC becomes tacky.

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  • SXP

Posted October 23, 2006 - 03:16 PM

#8

"I never have time to do it right the first time, But I always have time to do it again"


Cool quote-I like it:thumbsup: And how true too!

Like he said, do it right and replace both gaskets.

  • 5valve

Posted October 24, 2006 - 07:02 AM

#9

You can reuse a head gasket, but you shouldn't. But if you do, Permatex makes some spray called Copper Coat. Paint the copper coat on both sides of the gasket and install the gasket just when the CC becomes tacky.


thats probably it


Must consider, that gasket consists of 3 layers and original sealant is also adhesed in between, so it would be problematic, applying paste there, but worth a try.

  • 5valve

Posted December 03, 2006 - 02:23 AM

#10

Did the fix 2 days ago, cylinder gasket was really broken, probably tore it when installing previousely.

First, you can not remove the head and cylinder simultaniousely (bolted together with 4 nuts, because chain guides dont allow it.
So the head had to come off.

Luckily (this luck is currently on tes-t), I asked a mech, what to do, not to replace the gasket with new and he said, that working other bikes, he always used new parts, but doing his bikes, mostly street 4 cylinders, he always reused old gasket.
Whats the trick?
No special gasket spray, just plain colour spray, that has heat resistance, most have 600°C.
Clean the gasket upper and lower surface, in between multilayer gasket surface isnt damaged by heat.
Regreased it, cleaned it, sprayed it, left it to dry and installed it, torqued correctly, started the bike in 2nd kick, as always after major rebuid.

Had a multi hour ride yesterday, no milky oil, no water boiling or dissappearing, for now.
Will have this setup on tes-t and report someday.

  • 5valve

Posted December 04, 2006 - 11:41 AM

#11

Second ride, just perfect, no water, oil loss, water oil mix, blowby.

  • 2tall2tall

Posted December 06, 2006 - 06:01 AM

#12

I agree with 642MX that copper coat is AWESOME on head and just about any other type of gasket, but it is made by K&W products, not Permatex, and is available at most NAPA stores. I prefer the aerosol spray can but it is also available in a can with an applicator. If you don't want leaking gaskets, this is the stuff to use. :worthy: :D :prof:

  • 5valve

Posted December 06, 2006 - 08:36 AM

#13

I used heat resistant colour spray (black) and it also holds compresion in.
Cheaper and multipurpose use.

  • 5valve

Posted December 10, 2006 - 05:05 AM

#14

3 rides, about 8hrs total, no change, all is OK.




 
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