Kx 250 rebuild


14 replies to this topic
  • excel88

Posted October 12, 2006 - 06:34 PM

#1

Hey guys,

I am a complete begginer to the sport. I have purchased a 1998 kx250, and i would like to rebuilt the top end. I have read the service manuals 5 times over, but i just have a few questions.

Why is it required for me to remove the exhaust valve, and KIPS?

Why cant i just

- Drain Anti Freeze
- Remove cylinder head
- Remove Carb and all hoses
- Remove cylinder
- Remove piston (wrist pin?)
- Reinstall all applicable parts?

Any missing steps, anything to watch out for?

Should i go WIESCO, or Kawi piston and rings?

Thank you in advance

  • KDXGarage

Posted October 13, 2006 - 12:05 AM

#2

Cleaning the power valve system is part of doing maintenace on the top end. Don't skip it. If it has been a while since it has been done, you may want to go ahead and do it when you see how nasty it is. A clean power valve system should work better and deliver more power than one that is caked up with carbon.

  • Chokey

Posted October 14, 2006 - 04:21 PM

#3

Cleaning the KIPS parts is absolutley vital. If the carbon build-up gets very heavy, it will cause the sub-port drums to bind. When that happens, the steel teeth on the sub-port drums will shear the aluminum teeth right off of the actuation rack.

  • excel88

Posted October 14, 2006 - 06:47 PM

#4

Are the KIPS parts difficult to clean?

im very ignorant here, KIPS are the exhaust and intake valves??

thanks

  • AusKX250d

Posted October 15, 2006 - 03:11 AM

#5

The Kips parts are the power valves/exhaust valves. they arent too difficult to remove. To clean them, use an oven cleaner spray. it works well at removing the carbon. Im did this today on my KX250. when re-installing the power valves, coat them with molybdenum grease. (refer clymer manual)

  • Chokey

Posted October 15, 2006 - 05:24 AM

#6

The Kips parts are the power valves/exhaust valves. they arent too difficult to remove.

They aren't dificult to remove, but if you don't have a manual and you have never done it before, you will never get it reassembled and timed correctly. You must have a manual for this!

  • enduro4231

Posted October 15, 2006 - 05:32 AM

#7

They aren't dificult to remove, but if you don't have a manual and you have never done it before, you will never get it reassembled and timed correctly. You must have a manual for this!


Per my manual, the only 'timing' that needs to be done is making sure they are in the full open position when the cylinder is put back on.

  • Chokey

Posted October 15, 2006 - 10:14 AM

#8

The timing I refer to is the relationship between the sub-port drums and the main flapper. If not assembled correctly, You end up with one or both of the drums either partially open when the main flapper is closed (down), or one or both of the drums over-rotating when the main flapper opens and partially blocking the sub port. It's easier to assemble the parts incorrectly than you think.

  • excel88

Posted October 15, 2006 - 01:09 PM

#9

I have an actual kawasaki manual, and i dont think it is the greatest.

Do you guy recomend the clymers over the one i own?

  • FPMXer

Posted October 15, 2006 - 02:08 PM

#10

If you cannot obtain the factory manuel off here from someone then a Clymer is better than the little green book Kawasaki gives at time of purchase.

  • enduro4231

Posted October 15, 2006 - 04:17 PM

#11

I like clymer manuals, because they actually out line almost all procedures, whereas the manual included with the bike only gives general maitenence guidelines.

  • excel88

Posted October 15, 2006 - 04:50 PM

#12

No, I have a kawasaki service manual, the one the dealer uses. Are the clymers better than those?

  • KDXGarage

Posted October 18, 2006 - 12:38 AM

#13

The little green manual that came with the bike is the owner's manual. The service manual is a WHOLE lot different and explains how to work on it. No, it does not give every detail about every possible situation, but it is a great manual.

I have the OEM service manual and think it is good enough to explain what you are doing. Spend your money on some E-Z Off oven cleaner and a watch to make sure you don't leave it on aluminum parts for more than 10 minutes or so. It will require a few times of apply, wait, rinse and repeat.

  • excel88

Posted October 18, 2006 - 06:45 AM

#14

I have both the owners manual, and the white kawasaki service manual.

I can understand almost everything that i have to do for the rebuild with the excpetion of Remving the exhaust valves.

I think i will rebuild it without touching the valves for the first time, and than the end of next season ill pay to have it done, and the valves cleaned.

LAST QUESTIOn...

My manual refers to removing a shaft when taking the cylinder off, is this Necisairy (sp?) ? Or can i take the cylinder off without taking this "shaft" off?

Thanks

  • KDXGarage

Posted October 20, 2006 - 06:56 AM

#15

SOMETHING ties them together, so you will have to loosen or remove something.





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