What woods gearing for YZ250?
Posted October 09, 2006 - 01:58 PM
Posted October 09, 2006 - 04:04 PM
Posted October 09, 2006 - 06:16 PM
Posted October 09, 2006 - 09:45 PM
The extra shifting doesn't bother me after riding 125's most of the time. I also run a Q with everythingelse on the motor stock. I own a 11oz flywheel, but haven't been running it lately.
I don't miss the top speed much because I'm always in the tight stuff. I go back to stock or taller in the wide open desert during the winter months when we hit Moab and AZ.
Posted October 10, 2006 - 09:08 AM
No flywheel weight or the like either.
Posted October 10, 2006 - 10:16 AM
Posted October 10, 2006 - 01:33 PM
Posted October 10, 2006 - 06:33 PM
Posted October 11, 2006 - 03:33 AM
isn't 14/52 stock on the 05 and 06?
No, 14/50 is stock. (at least on my '06 and another I know of...)
Posted October 11, 2006 - 03:57 AM
Posted October 11, 2006 - 07:20 PM
Posted October 12, 2006 - 09:08 AM
Posted October 12, 2006 - 01:30 PM
Posted October 12, 2006 - 02:42 PM
Maybe it was too much with the flywheel added into the mix.
Posted January 04, 2009 - 10:33 PM
the 18" and 19" are the same size tire on the perimeter, its the inside rim dimension thats different. .
The stock tire size on the YZ250 2T is a 110/90/19, so a 120/90/19 is actually a taller tire and would make the gearing slightly taller. I have the same size on my bike and it didn't occur to me the effect this was going to have in tight, technical situations when a steep uphill is the only way out. I have the 11oz FWW, but noticed immediately that while added diameter width and weight does improve traction, it makes the bike a bit more sluggish when crawling along.
I have heard a lot of lighter guys running 14:51, but I am heavier and think I am going to try the 15:50 route as a quick and cheap gearing test.
Posted January 04, 2009 - 11:01 PM
Posted January 05, 2009 - 05:20 AM
I have been using this in EXTREMELY technical (slippery and hilly) trails... we generally cover about 5 miles in 4 hours. Absolutely love this gearing, first gear is very versatile on hills, even when traversing slick clay. Second and third are great too when the singletrack opens up a bit. I find the taller gearing mellows the bike nicely in the really tricky stuff.
I also use this gearing on fast sandy desert style riding. Even in the sandy singletrack, the tall gearing is great. Swapping between second and third makes ST riding a breeze. And then there's the top speed for the open sections.
I prefer to use a little more clutch on my bike, whilst carrying a higher gear.
Posted January 05, 2009 - 08:25 AM
I got a good deal on a 51 tooth Ironman sprocket, so that decided my rear for me. Up front I swap between a 13 and 15, although the 15 tooth is on 98% of the time. For almost all single track its perfectly fine. The only time I put on the 13T is when heading for a hike-a-bike ride, where I spend more time dragging my bike out from between boulders than I do riding it. I do have a Rekluse, which I think helps me get away with the taller gearing.
Going from a 110/90/19 to a 120/90/19 is mathmatically a 3.57% increase in hieght (and rolling circumference). That means if you run 14/50 normally, you'd want to change to a 14/51 to compensate.
Now, tires rarely ever fall right on the calculated height, so you need to look at manufacture specs. Also, Dunlop is offering some tires in 120/80/19 profile now. But how picky do you need to be? Worrying about that stuff too much will drive you crazy, because even as the tire wears you should be changing sprockets to compensate for the shorter height and cicumference.