XR650R Electrical upgrades complete (fi-nah-LEE!)


4 replies to this topic
  • InternalCombustion

Posted October 09, 2006 - 06:28 AM

#1

Several of you who were aware of some electrical mods I was making to my 650R have requested I post the final results and pics online. Apologies for taking so long to get it done, also for being long-winded, but the mods were extensive. See photos in "My Garage".

In prep for rewinding my stator I decided I wanted to mod my XR650R's electrical system and make it a bit more robust and easier to trouble shoot.

To start I brought the single output of the regulator/rectifier into a master relay, controlled by a switch just beneath my ignition switch. (Yeah, I could have gone through the ignition switch but I would not have been able to kill all lights independent of the ignition...).

The output of the main relay then feeds a 6-fuse panel. This allows individually fused power for the headlight, turn signals/brake light, 109dB horn, digital LED tach, LED voltmeter and one spare. The spare will be wired to my Garmin GPS V as soon as I get another RAM mount and hard-wired power cable. All connections were made via 2-, 4-, and 9-pin Hitachi-type modular connectors (all this from Electrical Connection) and all connector housings were sprayed with DuPont Teflon/Silicone sealer to help prevent corrosion of the brass pins.

After rewinding my stator I upgraded the lighting. This invovled replacing the E-Line/UFO plastic lens (#7351 incandescent bulb) with a Baja Designs glass lens (H4 bulb). This required significant mods to the UFO Oregon headlight assembly as the BD lens was more square-ish and used a different lens mounting arrangement. [The UFO-Oregon headlight is sweet-looking, but if I had it to do over, I would go with the BD headlight/number plate assembly from the git-go and get H4 capability without all this headache. Live and learn.]

Additionally, as the BD H4 lens is glass it is noticably heavier than the UFO plastic lens. Add-in the weight of the small sealed lead-acid battery, fuse panel, master power relay, etc, that I had already installed and the complete headlight/number plate assembly is now putting serious strain on the existing rubber mounting straps.

So I fabricated a lower mounting bar out of 1-1/16th square aluminum tubing and 1-1/8th aluminum bar, onto which I bolted two nylon pegs (see "My Garage" photos). Two holes were drilled in the bottom of the headlight/number plate assembly to match up with these nylon mounting points, thereby replacing the bottom rubber straps with a far more secure means of carrying the new weight.

To keep all this sorted out and avoid any "my-memory-is-going" problems, I did a full PowerPoint update of the factory wiring schematic (see jpeg image).

Yeah, it was a massive pain to figure out how to get eveything mounted (neatly) in the headlight assembly. But now its done and I am very happy with it. I now have about 350-400 miles on this new setup and have had zero problems so far.

Was this entire project overkill? Yeah, probably. But that's the way I generally do things. Do it right. Do it once.

Ride safe, all.

  • Huffa 2

Posted October 10, 2006 - 03:53 AM

#2

Nice work IC, REAL NICE !! I'm surprised no one commented yet ??

Umm, is your house wired that way too ? :devil:

Can anyone guess what those 12 white dots do on the upper L of his "dash" ?

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  • frankstr

Posted October 10, 2006 - 05:22 AM

#3

Looks sweet........ :devil:

  • Mikie1

Posted October 10, 2006 - 12:02 PM

#4

I must be doing something wrong-- I can't see the photos in your garage.

  • thouk

Posted October 10, 2006 - 03:06 PM

#5

The twelve white dots are for the tach. If you look at his wiring diagram you will see it listed in the top right of his diagram. Have fun, Tony





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