Hydraulic clutch vs cable clutch


23 replies to this topic
  • pHreaC

Posted October 08, 2006 - 12:10 PM

#1

Which hydraulic clutch is best for a WR450 '06?
Who installed one on his/her bike and what are your comments about it?

I find the cable-clutch a bit heavy when you're doing a lot of thight trail-work. Think the hydraulic clutch might be a big improvement.

grtz,

pHreaC

  • Indy_WR450

Posted October 08, 2006 - 03:52 PM

#2

Hydraulic clutch has the same pull as cable clutch just smoother. Get a rekluse if you want to eliminate left hand fatigue. :devil:

  • clark4131

Posted October 08, 2006 - 04:11 PM

#3

Get a rekluse if you want to eliminate left hand fatigue. :devil:


..and increase the fun factor :thumbsdn: ...SC

  • ncampion

Posted October 08, 2006 - 05:16 PM

#4

Hydraulic clutch has the same pull as cable clutch just smoother. Get a rekluse if you want to eliminate left hand fatigue. :devil:

I agree totally, the lightest clutch pull is no pull at all!!!

  • ETP

Posted October 08, 2006 - 05:55 PM

#5

Ditto to all the above............

  • pHreaC

Posted October 09, 2006 - 12:54 AM

#6

There is no improvement in switching to an hydraulic clutch?
I find the KTM-bikes clutching a lot easier (hydraulic clutch) compared to mine.

  • StreetbikePimp

Posted October 09, 2006 - 09:15 AM

#7

Its no big secret that the clutch on the Yamaha thumpers is far from perfect. But there are many ways to improve the performance or feel of the clutch with very little expense. Detailed below are some of the more common clutch modifications discussed. Also see: MXA: Bulletproof Clutch.

Preload your clutch springs with washers. I've done this with my 03 WR450, and it made a big differece.

(Copy and Pasted from http://www.thumperfa...clutch_mods.htm )

79-Cent Fix for ?Grabby? Clutch




(TT Members McGrath and RandyWRF)

Many riders have described symptoms suggesting incomplete clutch pull. The symptoms include not being able to start the bike in gear, the bike stalling when shifting from neutral to 1st gear, and having difficulty finding neutral. The issue with the stock hardware is that the spring CAVITY is not deep enough at full clutch pull. What then happens is that the solid height of the spring (i.e. fully compressed) is longer than the spring cavity (space between the pressure plate and the large diameter washer under the retaining bolt) at full clutch pull. So instead of the pressure plate traveling far enough to unload the clutch plates it binds against the solid height of the spring. To prevent the spring from compressing to its solid height we need to lengthen the cavity in which it lives. To do this, spacers must be added to the clutch basket towers where the bolts thread in. The spacers (washers) shim out the retaining bolts (one end of the spring cavity) so that the springs play nice with the pressure plate travel.


Procedure

Remove the clutch cover

Remove the 5 bolts for the springs

Slip 6 mm (M6) washers over the bolts. Make sure they fit inside the springs. MAKE SURE the thickness of the washers is equal! If one is thicker it will warp the pressure plate and cause the same problem you're trying to fix! Measure the washers with a micrometer or digital calipers. The thickness should be approximately 0.06 inches.

Reassemble everything

Readjust the clutch cable

One important thing...MAKE SURE there are no grooves on the basket or the hub or you'll still have problems.

  • mtrablue

Posted October 10, 2006 - 06:02 PM

#8

just my 2 cents. i had a rekluse on my '03 for a year and a half. it did not fit my riding style and i got rid of it. no big deal.(and yes i tried all the options; carbide balls, oils, remote adjuster...) not everything works for everybody.

anyways, i now have a magura hydraulic and love it. the feel is always the same (but not a lot lighter). it does not change as the clutch heats up and cools down. the engagement point is always very smooth. i'm pretty anal about my bike set up so i have to be honest about the magura, the bracket that locates the slave cylinder is pretty half ass. it took some grinding and rework of spacers to get the the pull rod to line up with the clutch arm at an angle that best matched the arms travel (swing). i have not had a starter motor for some time now so i had some room to work with, also.

that all sounds as negative as it does positive so it may not be of any help. if you like to tinker with your bike set-up, you will find a lot to like. i'm not sure if you will be happy with the "just open the box and bolt it on" fit, though.

there are a couple of things that will help the stock set up. get a cable luber. they may be a bit odd but they help even a new cable. add about 3/16 of an inch to your clutch actuating arm. it will increase the leverage. these small things add up.

another thing i have done that i don't hear much about; i got rid of the spring washer and odd clutch plate from my clutch pack. i compared yamaha part numbers and found that the YZ used the same plates as the WR except the one at the bottom with the spring washer. i was changing out my clutch pack so i went to a YZ set. i can now find neutral with no problem. there seems to be less drag. i believe the spring washer keeps just a little pressure on the plates and causes drag.

  • Ibis

Posted October 10, 2006 - 07:21 PM

#9

I don't understand why anyone would want an auto clutch. Must be a bunch of panty hose wearing novices. :devil:

  • pHreaC

Posted October 10, 2006 - 10:17 PM

#10

I saw Magura has a new design for the hydro-clutch. Anyone got some experience with that one.
Maybe it will work a bit lighter and does fit properly ?!
I'm kinda an ant-****er when it comes to detail, couldn't bear seeing it wouldn't fit properly (just call me a freak when it comes to my baby).

grtz,

pHreaC

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  • simon@vic

Posted October 11, 2006 - 07:45 AM

#11

i ride the nastiest stuff i can find. and have tried it with a rekluse. HATED it. caused me way more annoyance then it saved. the hydro clutch conversion for the wr450 works well.

cables stretch and shrink length with temp, moisture ,and altitude changes.

washers on the springs and a hydro would do you well i think.

  • robby26wi

Posted November 01, 2006 - 07:48 AM

#12

I have had a hydraulic clutch on my crf450 for 50 hours now...I wouldnt trade it for nothing...and as far as pull...You are crazy if you think it doesnt pull easier...mine is puss lol...

  • simon@vic

Posted November 01, 2006 - 09:05 AM

#13

Hydraulic clutch has the same pull as cable clutch just smoother. Get a rekluse if you want to eliminate left hand fatigue. :mad:


Indy, i "love ya" buddy but.
i think your nuts to like an auto clutch. takes all the fun from riding a bike!

hydro is the way to go! should be about the same pull as a brand new cable. way softer then a 1/2 gummed up cable {like most peoples bikes}. hydro is smother and feels the same every time you pull it. the wr cable changes length and feel with moisture, temp, and altitude.....

  • Indy_WR450

Posted November 01, 2006 - 09:48 AM

#14

Indy, i "love ya" buddy but.
i think your nuts to like an auto clutch. takes all the fun from riding a bike!

hydro is the way to go! should be about the same pull as a brand new cable. way softer then a 1/2 gummed up cable {like most peoples bikes}. hydro is smother and feels the same every time you pull it. the wr cable changes length and feel with moisture, temp, and altitude.....



I have the regular clutch on my 525 without the rekluse. You really appreicate the rekluse at low speed technical riding which can wear out your clutch hand. Otherwise I agree the regular clutch is more fun and has more advantages in performance. Us older guys need to cheat. The Rekluse is a great cheater upgrade!:mad: :mad: :mad:

  • Dan_Lorenze

Posted November 03, 2006 - 10:17 AM

#15

I've ridden Dales Trickdualsport 525 with the auto clutch, I really didn't like the auto clutch all that much.. I can see how they would be nice though, just not for me. I used to have a hydraulic clutch on my 426, it was real nice but I've kind of settled back to the stock cable. I've heard that the Magura's aren't as easy to pull as some of the others on the market. My old Hebo was butter smooth and easy but wasn't very reliable, I should have made it more waterproof..

  • Asgeir

Posted November 04, 2006 - 03:37 PM

#16

This combo from MSR gives lighter pull than any Hydro clutch, and costs less.

I have been using it for over a year and like it.

MSR Perch for WR250/450 34-1997

http://shop.thumpert...t.asp?p=443&s=2

MSR Shorty levers

http://shop.thumpert...t.asp?p=443&s=2

  • Agazza

Posted May 01, 2016 - 11:21 AM

#17

Its no big secret that the clutch on the Yamaha thumpers is far from perfect. But there are many ways to improve the performance or feel of the clutch with very little expense. Detailed below are some of the more common clutch modifications discussed. Also see: MXA: Bulletproof Clutch.

Preload your clutch springs with washers. I've done this with my 03 WR450, and it made a big differece.

(Copy and Pasted from http://www.thumperfa...clutch_mods.htm )

79-Cent Fix for ?Grabby? Clutch




(TT Members McGrath and RandyWRF)

Many riders have described symptoms suggesting incomplete clutch pull. The symptoms include not being able to start the bike in gear, the bike stalling when shifting from neutral to 1st gear, and having difficulty finding neutral. The issue with the stock hardware is that the spring CAVITY is not deep enough at full clutch pull. What then happens is that the solid height of the spring (i.e. fully compressed) is longer than the spring cavity (space between the pressure plate and the large diameter washer under the retaining bolt) at full clutch pull. So instead of the pressure plate traveling far enough to unload the clutch plates it binds against the solid height of the spring. To prevent the spring from compressing to its solid height we need to lengthen the cavity in which it lives. To do this, spacers must be added to the clutch basket towers where the bolts thread in. The spacers (washers) shim out the retaining bolts (one end of the spring cavity) so that the springs play nice with the pressure plate travel.


Procedure

Remove the clutch cover

Remove the 5 bolts for the springs

Slip 6 mm (M6) washers over the bolts. Make sure they fit inside the springs. MAKE SURE the thickness of the washers is equal! If one is thicker it will warp the pressure plate and cause the same problem you're trying to fix! Measure the washers with a micrometer or digital calipers. The thickness should be approximately 0.06 inches.

Reassemble everything

Readjust the clutch cable

One important thing...MAKE SURE there are no grooves on the basket or the hub or you'll still have problems.


Bump, anyone with photos of this mod?

Thinking of drilling my basket and doing this at the same time.

Also, is there any lever mod?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted May 01, 2016 - 03:55 PM

#18

Hydralic has LESS feel than a cable clutch.

 

Much more precise modulation with a cable.

 

If you want it to be 'easier', I suppose hydralic is that.

 

....but I want traction first.


Edited by KRANNIE, May 01, 2016 - 04:12 PM.


  • Agazza

Posted August 09, 2016 - 08:01 AM

#19

Bump, i switched out my Old clutch wire, bought a moose racing ez3 clutch lever, did the 79 cents mod and the swiss cheese mod, but my clutch still feels digital, it's not smooth, its not so hard to pull, but when you pull it it feels like it's sticking and then everything comes loose,

Any idea?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 09, 2016 - 01:28 PM

#20

Bump, i switched out my Old clutch wire, bought a moose racing ez3 clutch lever, did the 79 cents mod and the swiss cheese mod, but my clutch still feels digital, it's not smooth, its not so hard to pull, but when you pull it it feels like it's sticking and then everything comes loose,

Any idea?

 

Yes, your basket is notched






 
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