just put on 15/45 on 650R, what is too long for chain?


12 replies to this topic
  • J_T

Posted October 04, 2006 - 06:14 PM

#1

Hey all, I just bought and installed my 15/45 sprocket combo on my 110 link chain. BUT my chain is about adjusted as far as possible back, (on last notch on swingarm) with 14/48 it was just under half way.

1) Is this normal with the rest of you running 15/45 or is my chain stretched?
2) I have always heard that the bike performs best with the wheel as far forward as possible???but what is the harm of having it adjusted as far back as it is?
3) Is it time for a new chain or to remove a link?
Thanks in advance!


JT

  • Mudshark

Posted October 04, 2006 - 06:22 PM

#2

it's normal,
Just knock a link out of the chain.
I have 2 chains, one 110 and one shortened, just for this :devil:

  • Maroast

Posted October 04, 2006 - 09:16 PM

#3

I put a 15/45 setup on my stock length chain for a trip from dallas, tx to utah and I had no problems with the wheele kicked that far back (over 3000+ miles). I have to say that with that gearing I thought the bike pulled pretty good even from a dead stop. Crusied ALL day @ 75-80 with no problems...and it was cool to feel the pull when you crack the throtle going 75 and climbed to 100 no problem.

now that I'm home though, i put the stock gearing back on... and now the bike F@CKIN RIPS!!!!! Its a monster. :devil:

  • philipstjohn

Posted October 05, 2006 - 04:24 AM

#4

To check the chain, you measure the distance between 41 pins on center. A new chain should be 25.0 in.(635mm). The service limit is 25.1 in.(638mm). If the distance exceeds the service limit, the drive chain is worn out and should be replaced. FYI :devil:

  • pburke

Posted October 05, 2006 - 08:09 AM

#5

and don't take out too many links - this is what I found when I removed my rear tire:

Posted Image


the bike came with a 15-45 setup and the chain had been shortened so much, it was completely forward in the adjuster.

Result - destroyed the plastic shield and polished the suspension linkage. So much that I may just want to replace that part. The tire removed quite a bit of aluminum from that part...

  • Mudshark

Posted October 05, 2006 - 10:26 AM

#6

and don't take out too many links - this is what I found when I removed my rear tire:

the bike came with a 15-45 setup and the chain had been shortened so much, it was completely forward in the adjuster.

Result - destroyed the plastic shield and polished the suspension linkage. So much that I may just want to replace that part. The tire removed quite a bit of aluminum from that part...


What size rear tire are you running on there????
I run with a short chain and I've never polished the linkage
The plastic shield... they do wear through eventually, not much you can do.
A replacement is only about $9 US. :devil:
Also... I hate to say this.... but you should have noticed all this long before
taking the rear wheel off. :thumbsdn:

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  • J_T

Posted October 05, 2006 - 10:49 AM

#7

I will have to measure it b/c I'm sure its close to its end limit! But temporally I want to remove some links...

I have removed links when there is a master link and just reconnect it....These where there isn't a master link do you have to buy a permanent master link?
Is the special tool (Chain breaker) enough...like does it separate permanent links and I know there is a press or something I assume rejoins it...Just wondering if I need to buy any parts or just see if I can give the local repair shop a couple of bucks to borrow their tools in the parking lot?

Never messed with a non-master-link chain before. I don't want to be the weak link :-)

Thanks for all the replies!

  • Mudshark

Posted October 05, 2006 - 12:11 PM

#8

I just run Clip-on type Master links. Provided it's a match for your chain
strength and you are careful to put the clip on facing the correct way,
they're fine. I've been MX'ing / off roading for over 25 years and have yet
to break a Clip-on style link.
Please note though, that you'll still need to Press fit the clip-on link. A press
for this though is a lot cheaper than the chain rivet type.
Just remove one link (one inner and one outer) to end up back on an inner
link. This should leave you with 108 links.
If you decide to stick with the Rivet type link, you'll have to get your local
shop to press / rivet it on for you.

  • dick757

Posted October 05, 2006 - 12:13 PM

#9

Brand new gearing
Than brand new chain
Always replace all 3 at the same time

1 old piece and the rest will wear out twice as quick

  • pburke

Posted October 05, 2006 - 12:29 PM

#10

What size rear tire are you running on there????
I run with a short chain and I've never polished the linkage
The plastic shield... they do wear through eventually, not much you can do.
A replacement is only about $9 US. :devil:
Also... I hate to say this.... but you should have noticed all this long before
taking the rear wheel off. :thumbsdn:



I don't think my tire did the polishing - that may have been previous owner. otherwise, that's a 130/90 D606 right at the very beginning of the adjuster range. Previously I had a 5.10 Kings 50-50 in there and that seemed to rub less on the plastic.

What should I have noticed? The plastic was like that when I bought the thing and I am not too concerned about it. Just noticed the little polish down there because the bike happened to be cleaner this time around.

  • Mudshark

Posted October 05, 2006 - 03:00 PM

#11

What should I have noticed? The plastic was like that when I bought the thing and I am not too concerned about it. Just noticed the little polish down there because the bike happened to be cleaner this time around.


Phew... okay, i thought you never noticed any of it before. :devil:
Well the 5.10 is a 80% profile I think, so it'll rub less than a 90.
I run 120/90 606's and there is a big gap between the tire and the linkage
even when the wheel is all the way forward:
Posted Image

Plus lots of folks run 130's so I doubt that it's that.... unless the linkage
bearings were badly shot at one point and it rubbed then.... and it's fixed now??
wierd :thumbsdn: I have no idea what happened there...

  • pburke

Posted October 05, 2006 - 06:30 PM

#12

I run 120/90 606's and there is a big gap between the tire and the linkage
even when the wheel is all the way forward:
Posted Image...



but what when the suspension compresses? it's not anywhere near the tire in the normal riding position, but linkages have the tendency to move around as the wheel tavels :excuseme:

Plus lots of folks run 130's so I doubt that it's that.... unless the linkage
bearings were badly shot at one point and it rubbed then.... and it's fixed now??
wierd :devil: I have no idea what happened there...


well, the bike had at least two owners before me - last guy was setting it up for the street and put the long gearing on, but he barely rode it 500 miles before he bought a real street bike. The chain may have nothing to do with the problem

The guy before had to be using it offroad - lots of signs of that on the bottom frame of the bike, so he probably had a Teraflex on there and beat the crap out of it :thumbsdn: However, it runs great, straight, fast, no oil consumption over 800 miles, so I'll just assume it's just polished from all the gravel I was riding on recently

Going for sand and mud this weekend :thumbsdn:

  • Mudshark

Posted October 05, 2006 - 06:53 PM

#13

but what when the suspension compresses? it's not anywhere near the tire in the normal riding position, but linkages have the tendency to move around as the wheel tavels :thumbsdn:


It doesnt get any closer to the tire during compression.... maybe a bit further?

Youre right though, it doesnt rub now... so who cares :devil: Enjoy the Mud :thumbsdn:





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