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Honda XR200R (2002)


Owner: Rex214
Added on July 06, 2014



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XR200R Modification Guide

Honda XR200R

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293 replies to this topic
  • Quick Draw

    TT Silver Member

942 posts
Location: Colorado

Posted September 19, 2006 - 08:14 PM


I decided to compile a list of common modifications for the XR200 in hopes of eliminating some of the common questions asked on this forum. These modifications are intended to improve the overall performance of the bike, without sacrificing reliability. Feel free to suggest amendments or things to edit.

The XR200 is an excellent offroad machine; however, it was for the most part obsolete about 20 years ago. The bike can still be accredited to having probably the best reliability of any full size bike out there. When properly setup and modified, the "little XR" can run with the modern big bikes, especially in the tight and nasty technical terrain.

INTAKE: Remove the airbox snorkel on top of the airbox. It just takes a little prying and it's out. For $20-$40, you can get an aftermarket filter (UNI, TwinAir, No Toil), that will help increase airflow. Rejet one size up on the main and pilot.

Here are the stock jetting specs to give you a basline:

Stock jetting

XR200 (not XR200R)

main 102
pilot 35
Needle position 3rd groove
Pilot screw initial setting 1 3/4 turns out

XR200R (81-83 only)
Main 138
Pilot none
Needle position 3rd grove
Pilot screw initial setting 2 1/2 turns out

XR200R (86 and later)

Main 112 (86) 110 (87 and later)
pilot 38 35(98 and later CA only)
Needle position 3rd groove
Pilot screw initial setting 1 1/8 turns out

When these things are done, the bike will breath much better. This is the single greatest modification for a bike ridden at high altitude.

Overall cost w/out filter: about $10 for jets; $20-$40 for the aftermarket filter


ENGINE: The greatest improvement to the XR200R engine is a big bore kit. Here are the 2 most common kits: http://www.powroll.c...HONDA_XR200.htm
Other options include porting and polishing the head, high compression pistons, hotter cams, etc. The more you do, the more reliability is reduced, but it is a trade off for power. Another option is an ’83 -’85 ATC200X cylinder head. It has a .5mm smaller bore, so it would need to be bored to 65.5mm, however, it has much larger cooling fins. For motors that are constantly being run in extreme temperatures, this is an option to consider.

Overall cost: Varies by modification, expect to drop $200-$1000


EXHAUST: There are several aftermarket exhausts on the market. These range from silencers to full systems. Prices range from $80-$500. Most aftermarket exhausts will give about the same improvement. The engine will rev quicker, which can be nice, but mostly they all just make the bike louder. For mild improvement to the stock system: grind the weld off of the inside of the header and remove the small cap held on by 2 8mm bolts at the exhaust tip.

Overall cost: 0-$500


SUSPENSION: This is a major weakness with '92-'02 XR200s. The first option for the forks is to give the springs more preload by adding a larger spacer on top of the springs. The second, most common option is to swap out the entire suspension. '84-'91 XR200 forks and rear shocks will bolt right up, and ‘81-’83 XR200R forks will with the corresponding triple clamps. '84-'89 CR125/250 front ends will bolt up to any XR200R with the addition of a spacer. This particular swap is more complicated, but also adds a disc brake and improves the bike tremendously when used in combination with an '84-'91 XR200 rear shock. See this thread for more info on CR front ends: http://www.thumperta....1&parentpage=2 These parts frequently show up on Ebay and can be obtained very cheap. Also, a visit to racetech.com or similar suspension tuning company couldn't hurt with any setup. Emulators and progressive springs will get conventional forks nice and plush. Currently, XR250 rear shocks are in question as to what years will work; therefore, I do not recommend them at this point. Many people have them on their 200, however there is not a definitive answer for the years yet. Be sure to research before you buy.

Overall cost: Generally less than $100; for Racetech tuning, expect to drop $200+.


WHEELS: An 18" rear wheel from an '86-'89 XR250 will bolt right up. This can help because the 17" wheel spins too much sometimes, and tends to work its own spokes loose. There is also a much greater tire selection with the 18" rear wheel.

Overall cost: Generally less than $100

LIGHTING/DUAL SPORT: Lights can easily be added to the 200 by tying into a pink wire that just comes up under the tank, then loops right back down to the stator. This wire has no purpose, and was left behind in the wiring harness, because the non-American XR200s had lights, and Honda didn't pay to change the wiring harness or the stator. I have personally tested it up to 75 watts, but I wouldn't recommend going much higher. From there it is simply a matter of wiring it the way you want it. In any application you will need a 12v voltage regulator. I would be happy to assist with any questions on the wiring you may have, since I have redone mine several times to change things. Also, please visit this thread for some diagrams (about halfway down the page): http://www.thumperta....d.php?t=431097 Each wiring job is different, so it is difficult to write a generalized way to do it. For dual sporting, there are kits from Baja Designs and similar companies, or you can be creative and pull parts together yourself, and in result save lots of money. The first time I had lights on my bike, it only cost me $6. A speedometer cable can be attached to the speedometer port on the front brake hub, as long as you can find a way to mount the speedometer. TrailTech computers are the easy alternative to the manual speedometer.

Overall cost: Dependent upon creativity. Baja Designs kit runs around $450

Helpful XR200 Links:
www-staff.lboro.ac.uk/~elvpc/papers/XR200.html (engine info)
http://www.4strokes..../honda/lightup/ (adding lights)


**I need more links for XR200 INFORMATION, NOT PRODUCT websites....Post them in this thread if you have them***

Again, please feel free to suggest editing....I'm sure there are MANY things I forgot. This is just a baseline to get started.
  • Alabama_Rider and tonibaloney like this
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  • fordfreak300

    TT Silver Member

645 posts
Location: California

Posted September 19, 2006 - 10:41 PM


I don't understand hwo porting and polishing the head will reduce reliability? These heads seem pretty simplistic in their design. They appear to be of pretty thick material and not a whole lot of material needs to be removed. i just ported and polished my own head. I do however have lots of experience porting and polishing automotive heads. The same princaples apply. I just don;t get how improving the air flow will reduce realiabilty.

  • Owyhee

    TT Gold Member

1,321 posts
Location: Idaho

Posted September 20, 2006 - 05:44 AM


Great thread, Quick Draw!

I have a question about the exhaust insert. As I am not looking for more power, just cleaner carburation, I took out the muffler insert. The bike feels peppier and runs off the bottom cleaner, but it's amazing how loud the 200 is now, maybe louder than my 600.

I'm in the market for one of those Thumper Racing inserts for my 600 to quiet it down (it sounds like a Vietnam-era Huey hovering). I have seen no product to quiet the 200. My metal fabbing skills and tools are lacking so I can't build one myself.

It is just easier to find a used Supertrapp on eBay call it good?

Owyhee

  • fordfreak300

    TT Silver Member

645 posts
Location: California

Posted September 20, 2006 - 08:24 AM


on my 200, the supertrapp is not so quiet. I can't say how much louder it is than stock but it is way louder than our 4 stroke quad is with the stock muffler.

  • abs600fzrr

    TT Bronze Member

416 posts
Location: Pennsylvania

Posted September 20, 2006 - 11:23 AM


FMF makes a quite pipe i think.

  • Owyhee

    TT Gold Member

1,321 posts
Location: Idaho

Posted September 20, 2006 - 11:36 AM


FMF makes a quite pipe i think.


It's a mystery. I see this: FMF Powercore

But I also see this: instructions for an XR200 powercore

Maybe they used to make one but it is no longer in production? That works for me; I hate buying new anyway.

"O"

  • JDXR200R

    TT Bronze Member

309 posts
Location: North Carolina

Posted September 20, 2006 - 12:42 PM


This should be a sticky!

  • vetteguy

    TT Silver Member

509 posts
Location: Maryland

Posted September 20, 2006 - 01:21 PM


Thank You!

  • slideways11

    TT Member

58 posts
Location: Honduras

Posted September 20, 2006 - 02:48 PM


I put an FMF Powere Core 4 on my wifes 99xr200 and it is way too loud. I have come up empty looking for a quiet insert for this particular pipe.

  • Hondafmf

    TT Member

75 posts
Location: Illinois

Posted September 20, 2006 - 06:00 PM


i have a FMF on mine and it feels and sounds much better but when i snap the throttle it cuts out and if i hold it it dies any ideas? i just rejetted with a 40 pilot and a 115 main and i'm below 2,000 feet

  • HondaXr200

    TT Bronze Member

130 posts
Location: Minnesota

Posted September 20, 2006 - 07:20 PM


Im surprised that you added in the big bore kit to the list if you are concerned about reducing reliability. I have read many places that installing a big bore kit severly reduces the reliability...

  • Quick Draw

    TT Silver Member

942 posts
Location: Colorado

Posted September 20, 2006 - 08:07 PM


I don't understand hwo porting and polishing the head will reduce reliability? These heads seem pretty simplistic in their design. They appear to be of pretty thick material and not a whole lot of material needs to be removed. i just ported and polished my own head. I do however have lots of experience porting and polishing automotive heads. The same princaples apply. I just don;t get how improving the air flow will reduce realiabilty.


I'm not exactly sure to be honest with you. I just remember Old School Al saying that at one point. I mainly added that part because I figured Al would probably call me on it, because he called somebody else on it....Maybe he just meant that you shouldn't go balls to the wall opening up the motor....I'm not sure...

  • Quick Draw

    TT Silver Member

942 posts
Location: Colorado

Posted September 20, 2006 - 08:11 PM


Im surprised that you added in the big bore kit to the list if you are concerned about reducing reliability. I have read many places that installing a big bore kit severly reduces the reliability...


Yes, that is true....but the Old School team will swear by the powroll 218 stroker for reliability... There are a couple of these things that I am by no means speaking from experience on. I just added in things that I had read to get the baseline for this thread going. As you can see in my above post, when Old School Al says something, I usually take a mental note of it, because nobody on this board knows more about these bikes than him.

  • Quick Draw

    TT Silver Member

942 posts
Location: Colorado

Posted September 20, 2006 - 08:13 PM


Anymore suggestions or ammendments?

  • kc_450_X

    TT Titanium Member

2,513 posts
Location: British Columbia

Posted September 21, 2006 - 12:32 AM


Im surprised that you added in the big bore kit to the list if you are concerned about reducing reliability. I have read many places that installing a big bore kit severly reduces the reliability...


How unreliable is a bore kit going to be? I would think a stroker kit would reduce engine life more than a bore kit, but I don't know for sure I could be wrong. :thumbsup:

  • Hondafmf

    TT Member

75 posts
Location: Illinois

Posted September 21, 2006 - 05:34 PM


any help with my problem? please

  • XR250rdr

    Get Help Now

6,090 posts
Location: California

Posted September 21, 2006 - 06:36 PM


I have a SuperTrapp EAR series pipe and it isnt that loud.

  • Quick Draw

    TT Silver Member

942 posts
Location: Colorado

Posted September 21, 2006 - 08:38 PM


any help with my problem? please


Next time make a new thread for it, but from your description I can't really tell whether it is lacking air or fuel. Your jetting should be fine. Clean your air filter and check for air leaks. It could even be valve clearances....

  • mels95yj

    TT Member

57 posts
Location: Kentucky

Posted September 22, 2006 - 05:12 AM


Good job QuickDraw! I wondered why there wasn't a sticky like this for the XR200's since there seems to be so many of them floating around.

So, a 18" wheel will bolt right up with no modifications? Time to hit ebay!

Mel

  • Quick Draw

    TT Silver Member

942 posts
Location: Colorado

Posted September 22, 2006 - 08:00 PM


Good job QuickDraw! I wondered why there wasn't a sticky like this for the XR200's since there seems to be so many of them floating around.

So, a 18" wheel will bolt right up with no modifications? Time to hit ebay!

Mel


Thanks, but before you go out spending your money, take note of my edit. I happened to read back over that section and I meant to put '86-'89 XR250 but I left out XR250 entirely. Just to clarify, an '86-'89 XR250 18" rear wheel will bolt up to the XR200R with no other modifications. My wheel seemed like it was going to rub on the swingarm when I first put it on, but when I got everything positioned right, everything cleared.





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