Baja Designs Switch.

[BluezookS]

I found a problem with my Baja Designs kit switch. I had a crash on my XR650R and when I crawled back to the bike and got it upright the ON/OFF light switch was smashed and the actuator was missing. The switch worked fine up until that point.

The battery pack is weak so I couldn't tell if it was on by looking at the taillight.

I kicked a bunch of times with the compression release pulled in and the throttle wide open. I got a backfire but it never fired up.

I was able to get my buddy to come pick me up and get home.

So I bought the XRR thinking it kicks pretty easy, almost starts by accident. I don't need an electric start. Then the crash, on/off messed up, am I kicking for nothing, man an electric start would be nice in this situation.

Plans:

I am definately going to label the wires so I can rig the wiring to start incase the switch is messed up. This is the purpose of the post to suggest this for others.

Rig a seperate on/off switch for anti-theft and ease of start after a crash.

Ride slower when by myself. ?

[snaggleXR650]

The instructions with the DSK show which two wires to connect/disconnect to bypass the handlebar kill switch. One is black with a white stripe, the other is yellow or green or something...

[moleculo]

I found a problem with my Baja Designs kit switch. I had a crash ? on my XR650R and when I crawled back to the bike and got it upright the ON/OFF light switch was smashed and the actuator was missing. The switch worked fine up until that point.

Sounds more like the Baja Designs kit switch found a problem with you!

[InternalCombustion]

Sorry to hear about the train wreck. Bummer, but at least no significant road-rash.

Re the BD switch, if you do not already have it, here is the info / diagram for the current switch.

Hope this helps!

• 
  Black w/ white stripe – Kill wire. Attach to stock kill wire that the stock kill button unplugs from.
  Blue w/ white stripe – Kill wire ground. Attach to chassis ground (or factory wire that goes to chassis ground.)
  Blue – Power in. Attach to fused DC power.
  Red – Accessory power out. Hot in either of the two upper switch positions. Use to power taillight, turn signals, & horn.
  Light Green – Power to low beam.
  Yellow – Power to high beam.
  Brown – Power to left turn signals.
  Dark Green – Power to right turn signals.
  Orange – Power to turn signal switch from flasher relay.
  Pink – Horn wire. Attach to one side of horn.
  Black – Ground for horn and high beam indicator. Attach to DC ground (not always chassis.)
  

Update: the above color codes are for BD's current-stock control switch. This is the design that has a kill-switch in the shape of a little mini-lever, vs the older design, which has a square kill-button. I cannot vouch that these codes are correct for the older design.

[hypersthenos]

Yep, just disconnect the 2 wires that go to the original wiring harness that used to go to your stock kill switch & you're good to go.

[InternalCombustion]

Holy crap, Batman! You musta REALLY had a train-wreck, in order to bust up the handlebar switch!!

?

[BluezookS]

The bike already had the BD kit on it when I bought it. It was working great and I saw no need to play with the wires. Now I need to know how to hot wire it.

I was having a good ride on this gravel road. I had just changed my pilot jet and the BRP was running crisp and fine. Retuning home there was a water puddle spanning the road with a dry spot to the left. I cleared that without getting wet, next was a wooden bridge thing. It is flush with the road and a small stream runs under it. It is made of 4x4s and is about 10'x 20'. I must have been on the gas and it was slick the bike went sideways on the wood, got traction on the gravel and launched me.

All I know is I was looking down the road the whole time. I had the same visual but was not on the bike anymore. It was like it the BRP was snatched from underneath me. ?