Bike Dying! Need Help!!
Posted August 22, 2006 - 07:45 PM
I also use a Zip Ty Fuel Screw and Rekluse Auto Clutch.
Here is the problem:
If I'm on a serious up hill and have to slow down quickly for a turn, and then I chop the throttle from about 0 to 1/8th of a turn, the bike sometimes dies. This really became apparent when I put on the Power Shot which leads me to just removing it and putting on my old pump cover, but I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem.
I can also make the bike die when idling by chopping the throttle quickly a couple of times in the garage in neutral.
I contacted JD Jetting and they told me the WR450 doesn't need the Boysen pump cover, but I did notice the bike cleaned up very nicely after I put it on except for this 0 to 1/8th throttle problem.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Posted August 22, 2006 - 07:51 PM
Posted August 22, 2006 - 08:23 PM
Posted August 22, 2006 - 08:51 PM
Posted August 24, 2006 - 08:50 AM
For instance. I was riding up a steep up hill at a decent pace, when I got to the top onto a fire road, the sloap of the hill got steeper, but I wanted to turn right to get on the fire road. So, I choped off on the throttle, then just bliped it to carry me over the steep part, but slow me down so I wouldn't blow through the fire road and possibly get struck by another motorcycle or vehicle..
This also happens when I'm trying to go slow up a hill and the just chop on and off the gas to get a little momentum before I really get on the gas when the wheels hooks up. Sometimes the bike dies here as well.
Posted August 24, 2006 - 09:16 AM
Posted August 24, 2006 - 11:31 AM
Posted August 25, 2006 - 07:39 AM
I have the clip in the 3rd position because I ride mostly in the 0-3000 ft elevation.
Looks like I have to lean out the Pilot based on other comments.
Posted August 25, 2006 - 10:56 AM
Elevation 0 to 4,000 feet:
30 to 45 degrees: 172 main, JD Blue #5, 48 Pilot, 2.0 turns, 75 starter jet, #0 leak jet
45 to 60 degrees: 170 main, JD Blue #4, 48 Pilot, 1.75 turns, 72 starter jet, #35 or 0 leak jet
60 to 75 degrees: 170 main, JD Blue #3 or JD Red #5, 48 Pilot, 1.5 turns, 70 starter jet, #40 leak jet
75 to 90 degrees: 168 main, JD Red #5, 48 Pilot, 1.25 turns, 68 starter jet, #50 leak jet
90 degrees plus: 165 main, JD Red #4, 45 Pilot, 2.0 turns, 65 starter jet, #60 leak jet
Posted August 26, 2006 - 08:01 AM
Posted August 27, 2006 - 12:23 PM
I then went to your attached links and couldn't understand what the heck you and JD were discussing. I understand 2 stroke jetting, but this AP timing and such for 4 strokes is killing me!
I did see your jetting recommendations, THANK YOU. I'll pick up some of the jets you mentioned and give it the old college try.
My question back to you is that you mentioned a 48 pilot versus the stock 45, meaning to richen the pilot jet, yet lean the leak jet? I just want to make sure. You also mention to change the Starter jet to 72 or 70, can you tell me the stock starter jet size?
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP. I'll be getting the jets this week and will keep you posted.
Posted August 27, 2006 - 01:11 PM
I'm not going to lie to you and tell you this is a quick and easy job, 'cuz it isn't. It's tedious and time consuming, though not technically difficult. Perhaps it was a bit of overkill, but I had a serious bog until I went this route. Now, no bog. I hope that makes it a bit clearer for you...SC
Posted August 31, 2006 - 11:19 PM
Have you tried the red marked needle?
Please give red in #5 from top a try. With the bike fully hot and having been ridden for about 20 minutes, try turning the fuel screw inwards until the motor slows by ~300rpm. From that point, turn the fuel screw outwards 3/4 to 1 turn.
Did you get the kit recently? We are including a pair of O-rings in the YZ/WR kit now to use on the accelerator pump linkage (2 levels of pump adjustment). This adds some snap to the accelerator pump. If you need the O-rings, please send me an email and we will mial them to you at no charge, regardless of when you got the kit.
We recommend the factory setting for the accelerator pump. My quick and easy setting is to turn the pump timing screw inwards until you can push down on the linkage and feel some freeplay. Turn the screw out 1/4 turn at a time until the freeplay is gone. Then, turn the screw 1/4-1/2 turn inwards to add back a tiny amount of freeply.
This is usually near .1 inches or 2.5 - 2.7mm gap between the black plastic linkage and the metal plate that the screw threads thru.
Ride the bike and evaluate with the red #5 setting and let us know your progress.
Posted September 04, 2006 - 05:18 PM
I'll try removing the Blue Needle and replace it with the Red Needle in the 5th position like you mentioned.
Should I also change the pilot jet and leak jets like you suggested in other posts that I've read?
PS - My AIS kit is in fact removed and plugged. I did all the free mods that are posted for the WR450's as well as the other things I mentioned in my previous posts.
Posted September 04, 2006 - 05:50 PM