650R starting tricks?


21 replies to this topic
  • philipstjohn

Posted August 19, 2006 - 06:32 PM

#1

I just got my first 650R, and it was real hard to get started. Flooded from the get go, even though I followed the manual starting procedures. Day two, same thing. :ride: Day three, left gas off prior to starting, but followed all other starting procedures, and it fired up second kick. I now do not turn on gas for the first few kicks, and this seems to help. If it does not start, I then turn the gas on, and it will start in a couple of kicks. Is this normal, or is there any other "tricks" I should know about to get this bad boy started? Once started, I can not stop smiling! Please give me your suggestions if you can. Thanks :thumbsup:

  • XR4DEZ

Posted August 19, 2006 - 07:52 PM

#2

Does gas flow out of the overflow when the petcock is turned on or when it's on the kickstand?

  • Old_Man_Time

Posted August 19, 2006 - 10:59 PM

#3

I would first check the float level to make sure the fuel bowl is not flooding you out. Set the float to shut the fuel off 2mm before the stock setting shuts the fuel off.

With the stock carb on the first start of the day I used to make it a practice to pull in the manual decompression, hold the carb wide open and hold the kill switch while I ran it through 7 complete kicks.

Second, never give it any fuel. When kicking it over squeeze the front brake so your hand can't accidently twist the throttle even a little. Then find the hard spot when slowly pushing on the kickstart lever. Once you find the hard spot pull in the manual decompression and push the kick starter 1 inch past the hard spot. Let the Kick stater rachet back to the top of the kick. Now kick it through all the way. Try this several times. If it does not even try to start. Try the choke which might be a good idea anyway if it is the first start of the day.

If it still doesn't start turn the idle up.

These bikes start pretty easy when tuned properly and this procedure is followed.

You might check the air filter, valves and plug if you still have problems.

  • wattner

Posted August 20, 2006 - 05:29 AM

#4

The good old school "Honda" drill....Kick through completely 4 cycles, pull in the decompression lever, hold the throttle wide open for one full kick, get to TDC, Man up and kick through with no throttle until the bike fires....Works ALMOST every time.....

  • loufish

Posted August 20, 2006 - 06:29 AM

#5

Do you have the bike uncorked? They are a little lean from the dealer. My drill:
Cold: Turn on fuel, full choke, hold in decompress lever and kick thru 3 times, release lever and give it a real kick!
9 times out of 10 it will fire right up on the first kick after releaseing lever, on that 10th time it will take just 2 kicks.

You have to kick this thing like it owes you money! No wussey sitting on the seat kick-thrus, jump up and KICK IT!...

  • philipstjohn

Posted August 20, 2006 - 07:22 AM

#6

Yes, gas did flow out of the carb when I was trying to start it the first few times, then I would do the decompression lever/kill switch/open throttle kick routine to get it going

  • philipstjohn

Posted August 20, 2006 - 07:27 AM

#7

Yes the bike came uncorked, but it came with a 172 main- will the 175 main help get it going or?

  • Old_Man_Time

Posted August 20, 2006 - 01:40 PM

#8

Yes, gas did flow out of the carb when I was trying to start it the first few times


That being so your float is very close if not out of adjustment. You are flooding. Reset the float shut off to 2mm earlier than the stock setting.

  • BWB63

Posted August 20, 2006 - 06:02 PM

#9

175 main, 68s pilot, 1.5 out on the idle screw (or there abouts) 16.5mm on the float, (stock should be 16mm and some set away with 17mm) That is truly un corker with 2" drilled out exhaut tip or HRC, header and muffler would be 178+ on the main and 70s pilot. If you lay it down and fload it WOT (wide open throttle) and kicking it from TDC (Top dead center) hard and though the whole stroke is what works best to and air to the' "to much fuel" you have. Or you can mess with the ten kicks with the decompression lever pulled and then hope it starts advice.

  • 52wheelz

Posted August 20, 2006 - 07:16 PM

#10

Pilot Jet selection can make all the difference. If you bought it used, you will need to find out what jets are in the bike and what the needle is set at. From stock, I usually go up one or two settings on the pilot jet.

Finding top dead center, or the hard spot, is also very important. When you find that spot, just barely push the kick starter past that point, and I mean barely. Let it come back up all the way and then kick it like you are kicking to China. This is a long stroke motor and you have to use the full stroke of the kick starter. Kick it hard, and kick it fast.

If flooded, open the throttle wide open and leave it there and kick. If it doesn't start, leave the throttle wide open!!!!!!! Do not let the throttle return to the off position or you will just flood it again!!!!!!!

When the carb, exhaust and air intake are all balanced correctly, the bike should start after only a few kicks cold or hot when you follow the correct procedures.

All prior posts on this topic are correct.

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  • oneshot

Posted August 20, 2006 - 07:57 PM

#11

i kicked the piss outa my new-to-me '05 yesterday....never got it to fire....got disgusted.....

today i went out and tried it again, after reading the posts here. i turned the fuel on, choke on, found the "hard spot", and kicked like a biotch. 4th time she fired right up. after the bike was warmed up, it would start on the 1st kick every time....

  • oneshot

Posted August 20, 2006 - 07:58 PM

#12

mine is of the "uncorked" variety, btw.....

  • pburke

Posted August 21, 2006 - 07:59 AM

#13

i kicked the piss outa my new-to-me '05 yesterday....never got it to fire....got disgusted.....

today i went out and tried it again, after reading the posts here. i turned the fuel on, choke on, found the "hard spot", and kicked like a biotch. 4th time she fired right up. after the bike was warmed up, it would start on the 1st kick every time....


not sure if it matters, since I have the Edlebrock in my bike and simply cannot reach the "cold start switch (don't even know if it is really there, but I saw it in the manual): the gas tank completely covers that side of the carb.

What I do for cold starts is turn up the remote idle screw about 5 half turns (in summer weather), twist the throttle 2 times real good and kick it. Usually by the second kick, the bike is running, then I work my way back down with the idle as it warms up. ONce warm, I just kick it and it usually starts 1st kick or second.

One thing that's odd is that it sometimes just "plop" dies as I come to a stop at a stop light. Seems to backfire a little under engine braking, too - probably too rich by a tad. Have yet to look at the spark plug, but it runs just fine 99% of the time.

I never had the stock carb, so I can't really comment on that.

Peter

  • redrider91

Posted August 21, 2006 - 10:49 AM

#14

Dont give it anythrottle and i think it should go

  • HC

Posted August 21, 2006 - 12:49 PM

#15

just got mine together, uncorked, but stock muffler ( less sound=more ground) I am takin the stock carb one step ( mod.) at a time, following HawkGT/Burned advice I went with a smaller main then most. 158, the rest stock.

at sea level, at 70 degree cold start, its one kick the last four attempts.

for cold, full choke, 5-6 kicks with compression release in to charge the cylinder, find TDC , go just past w/ compression release and one kick. not a 360 maico kick either, no harder then my old DR350. so far it carbs well. my use is a hard dual sport bike not a race bike. I havent checked the plug yet. I'll do that soon. the smaller main should help with mileage, big hp wont help me if I'm out of gas, I need 150-200 mi range.

Do you have the bike uncorked? They are a little lean from the dealer. My drill:
Cold: Turn on fuel, full choke, hold in decompress lever and kick thru 3 times, release lever and give it a real kick!
9 times out of 10 it will fire right up on the first kick after releaseing lever, on that 10th time it will take just 2 kicks.

You have to kick this thing like it owes you money! No wussey sitting on the seat kick-thrus, jump up and KICK IT!...



  • wickedsprint

Posted August 22, 2006 - 08:01 AM

#16

I have the pumper carb on mine, turn gas on, 3 quick twists of throttle, get the piston past TDC and give one good solid kick, it lights on the first kick 90 percent of the time cold, if it does not then it requires about 2 more. When warm it always starts first kick so I think I have the low speed fueling pretty close.

  • pburke

Posted August 22, 2006 - 08:16 AM

#17

I have the pumper carb on mine, turn gas on, 3 quick twists of throttle, get the piston past TDC and give one good solid kick, it lights on the first kick 90 percent of the time cold, if it does not then it requires about 2 more. When warm it always starts first kick so I think I have the low speed fueling pretty close.


The twists before you go to TDC? I figure the moment I keep moving that piston around, some of the fuel I just prepped goes to the wrong place. I'll try it your way today, since I really don't like messing with the idle setting, although I am getting pretty darn good at it.

My gas is always on - could that be a problem? Bought the bike like that and never had any gas spill.

Guess I have to read that manual again and take another look at the Edelbrock setup. So far I've been blindly trusting the previous owner to have done everything right.

Peter

  • Old_Man_Time

Posted August 22, 2006 - 07:54 PM

#18

not sure if it matters, since I have the Edlebrock in my bike and simply cannot reach the "cold start switch (don't even know if it is really there, but I saw it in the manual): the gas tank completely covers that side of the carb.

Seems to backfire a little under engine braking, too - probably too rich by a tad. Have yet to look at the spark plug, but it runs just fine 99% of the time.


There is no cold start switch on the Edelbrock designed for XR650R. I know the maunual shows one but it's not there. I finally called Edelbrock about it and they said it is not there and the picture was not of the carb that goes on the XR650R.

If your backfiring (popping) under engine braking you are lean not rich unless you have a poor fitting header pipe which is not common on this bike.

  • pburke

Posted August 22, 2006 - 07:59 PM

#19

There is no cold start switch on the Edelbrock designed for XR650R. I know the maunual shows one but it's not there. I finally called Edelbrock about it and they said it is not there and the picture was not of the carb that goes on the XR650R.

If your backfiring (popping) under engine braking you are lean not rich unless you have a poor fitting header pipe which is not common on this bike.


that's what I figured (no cold start switch).

Going to read up on the lean condition on low rev - it sometimes pops as I come to a stop and just dies - not good. The previous owner did send me the carb manual and it does have some good trouble shooting info, so I guess I can figure this out if I actually sit down and read it

  • mongmoto

Posted August 23, 2006 - 09:37 AM

#20

never turn gas off, full choke kick once, choke off, start, ,NO THROTTLE,have xr600r and xr650r and both are exactley the same





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