brake rotors for 650R


31 replies to this topic
  • Max Power

Posted August 21, 2006 - 06:16 PM

#21

I've not gotten any inkling of my stock braked bike being capable of braking hard enough to do a stoppie. If the larger rotor DOESN"T INCREASE BRAKING POWER, how is it going to help you do stoppies?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????


The larger rotor does increase braking power. Arm/Moment/Torque. So simple.

  • BWB63

Posted August 21, 2006 - 08:05 PM

#22

Sweet truck. :thumbsup:

Posted Image

I can't believe you looked right past that cool bird cage to see my new truck! We brought or two parrots to Pismo and my wife forgot to trim one of the birds wings and it flew off......I am sure he was scared for a while and then thought this is real cool....then he must have gotten eaten by one of the bigger birds.
Thanks on the truck,
That truck is a GMC 2006 Crew Cab SB, LBZ Duramax with the new Auto 6 speed Allison tranny, Eaton G-80 Locker differential, Predator Tuner, CST Lift w/ Bilstein Shocks, Firestone Air Bags, Pro-Comp Traction Bars, 4" turbo down tube 5" exhaust w/ CAT removed, EGR blocker w/ fingerstick, 4" nerfstep bars.
These new Duramax are now putting out 360hp and 650fpt and I am running the 85hp tune on the Predator. The 120hp tune is just to much for everyday driving. I think I like the 65hp tune the best and I run the 45hp tune towing the toy hauler. Max Power has said, it as simple as it gets....leverage.

Hold two inches of stick out of your hand and have someone push on it, now put 20" of stick and have the same pressure applied. Or some other leverage story. How about having a little 6" tire spinning and you try to grasp it to stop it and now a 60" tire both with the same RPM spin on the shaft......say 20 RPM, you can stop the big tire much easier by applying the same force to the outside of tire. Big steering wheel small steering wheel.....ok, ok I get it stop all ready :ride: :applause:

  • BWB63

Posted September 30, 2006 - 04:53 PM

#23

I have had some 280mm rotors here and have been to lazy to put them out. I finaly got around to it and now have to find a way to install rotor guard and fork guards.
The fork skins are Tusk Neoprene Seal Guards 44-50 mm Long Black that I turned inside out so, that the Tusk emblem does not show. Work great with my fork brace. After two years you can see the wear on the plastic paint, it's about time for a re-paint.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

680cc Wiseco 11:1 piston, Barnum's Pro cam, Carrillo Rod, Kimberwhite valve springs & S/S valves w/ 3mm over sized intake, Clarke 4.3 tank, Edelbrock bored to 42mm X 40mm, 19 needle 16 clicks out, pump screw full on, Moriwaki Full Exhaust w/ black ceramic coating, UNI air filter, Holes in air filter cover, No back fire screen, Baja Designs Sol-Tek 100watt Baja light, Shark Fin, Galfer Steel Braided Brake Lines (red) and brake pads, Titex rotors, Scott's steering dampener, Applied triple clamp, SuperBrace fork brace, Renthal RC Fatty Bars, Oil sight tube, Acerbis; Pro-Hand guards, LED Tail Light, Fender w/ fender brace & front rotor cover, XR's Only's, Chain Guard, case saver & skid plate, IMS Fluidyne Radiators & Pro foot pegs, Spyder Grips, Ceet seat cover, LED tail/brake light, Re-wound duel stage stator & stator case vent tube, 49or47 Iron Man sprocket, X-ring EVR2 Gold chain, Gold Excel rims, Red Rad hubs and Heavy Duty Spokes, 115 NAPA Thermostat, Evens Coolant, Eibach 45kg Fork springs w/re-shimmed & Re-valve, legnthened 20mm, 110mm 2.5wt ultra light Golden Spectro SPL Fork Fluid, Eibach 10kg shock springs on a CR500 shock with Gold valve, (90mm preload) 200psi nitrogen, US-1 RaceTech shock oil, re-shimmed & Outerwears Shock Sock, 15/47 IronMan Sprockets, EBC 280mm front rotor, fork skins.

  • MindBlower

Posted October 01, 2006 - 05:46 AM

#24

The larger rotor does increase braking power. Arm/Moment/Torque. So simple.


You need to talk to an engineer! :thumbsup:

  • MindBlower

Posted October 01, 2006 - 05:47 AM

#25

I can't believe you looked right past that cool bird cage to see my new truck! We brought or two parrots to Pismo and my wife forgot to trim one of the birds wings and it flew off......I am sure he was scared for a while and then thought this is real cool....then he must have gotten eaten by one of the bigger birds.
Thanks on the truck,
That truck is a GMC 2006 Crew Cab SB, LBZ Duramax with the new Auto 6 speed Allison tranny, Eaton G-80 Locker differential, Predator Tuner, CST Lift w/ Bilstein Shocks, Firestone Air Bags, Pro-Comp Traction Bars, 4" turbo down tube 5" exhaust w/ CAT removed, EGR blocker w/ fingerstick, 4" nerfstep bars.
These new Duramax are now putting out 360hp and 650fpt and I am running the 85hp tune on the Predator. The 120hp tune is just to much for everyday driving. I think I like the 65hp tune the best and I run the 45hp tune towing the toy hauler. Max Power has said, it as simple as it gets....leverage.

Hold two inches of stick out of your hand and have someone push on it, now put 20" of stick and have the same pressure applied. Or some other leverage story. How about having a little 6" tire spinning and you try to grasp it to stop it and now a 60" tire both with the same RPM spin on the shaft......say 20 RPM, you can stop the big tire much easier by applying the same force to the outside of tire. Big steering wheel small steering wheel.....ok, ok I get it stop all ready :thumbsup: :lame:


LEVER effort (pull) OK, stops faster? NOT.

  • BWB63

Posted October 01, 2006 - 07:47 AM

#26

If you are an engineer you should be fired. This is why we have so much trouble with the engineers that work for us. For all of automotive time this principle has been use. Larger wheel (diameter) move slower at the axle then a smaller wheel. Same with a steering wheel. Back before power steering this was used all the time. Big steering wheel to to help you control the turning with the same size hands over a small steering wheel that would just rip right out of your hand if you hit a curb. I will get the techno babble name for this and put an end to you squawking ...or it will shut me up for good and I'll find a way to go to a real small rotor to limit the risk of it getting hit by rocks.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • BWB63

Posted October 01, 2006 - 08:39 AM

#27

$5 says in a one time panic braking test the stock and oversized rotor will bring the bike to a stop in the same distance. The rider input may change due to the mechanical advantage of the oversized rotor but once fully applied the braking is the same.

I noted a more progressive feel with the oversized rotor. I attribute this to the mechanical advantage, where less pressure is required. However, I doubt that more total braking power (disk pad pressure applied against the rotor) is available without a different caliper (I.E. 4 pot caliper).


I agree totaly with this, I think that some of you are reading it different than he is stating it. Once the tire stops you are relying totaly on the front tire to stop the bike but, he does say you get " mechanical advantage, where less pressure is required " The mechanical advantage is what gives the stopping power up to the wheel stopping. It also makes it so you can stop that wheel sooner.

  • MindBlower

Posted October 01, 2006 - 06:54 PM

#28

I agree totaly with this, I think that some of you are reading it different than he is stating it. Once the tire stops you are relying totaly on the front tire to stop the bike but, he does say you get " mechanical advantage, where less pressure is required " The mechanical advantage is what gives the stopping power up to the wheel stopping. It also makes it so you can stop that wheel sooner.



"$5 says in a one time panic braking test the stock and oversized rotor will bring the bike to a stop in the same distance"


What's to misread? (oh, you did)


:thumbsup:

  • MindBlower

Posted October 01, 2006 - 06:56 PM

#29

If you are an engineer you should be fired. This is why we have so much trouble with the engineers that work for us. For all of automotive time this principle has been use. Larger wheel (diameter) move slower at the axle then a smaller wheel. Same with a steering wheel. Back before power steering this was used all the time. Big steering wheel to to help you control the turning with the same size hands over a small steering wheel that would just rip right out of your hand if you hit a curb. I will get the techno babble name for this and put an end to you squawking ...or it will shut me up for good and I'll find a way to go to a real small rotor to limit the risk of it getting hit by rocks.


Yep, that big steering wheel makes it EASIER to turn the wheels. Doesn't do a damn thing to make the car TURN any quicker. JUST LIKE THIS. :thumbsup:

  • Max Power

Posted October 01, 2006 - 07:30 PM

#30

You need to talk to an engineer! :thumbsup:


Are you sure? We all make mistakes.

Posted Image

  • BWB63

Posted October 01, 2006 - 08:28 PM

#31

Ok, I got a responce from the head Engineer from WinPack John Paxton and this is his responce:

Bruce:



Does putting a larger diameter rotor on a disc brake improve braking?



Yes it does, if the brake pads are moved to the rim of the larger rotor.

The pads, being the same size and material, will produce the same clamping force but at farther distance from the axle. This will give you a greater braking torque at the axle.



Breaking torque = braking force at pads X the distance from the pads to the axle



As far as giving the driver better control in braking, that depends on the skill of the driver being able to handle the greater breaking abilities of the bike.

John Paxton

  • BWB63

Posted October 01, 2006 - 08:34 PM

#32

"$5 says in a one time panic braking test the stock and oversized rotor will bring the bike to a stop in the same distance"


What's to misread? (oh, you did)


:thumbsup:


You are out of your mind, I got the panic stop and the tire stopping I think you are missing the point of leverage and have no clue to what is going on. I thought you where just messing but, now I think you just don't get it and are waisting our time.
You miss the principle, Just as it is easier to turn with a bigger steering wheel it is easier to stop the steering wheel from being yanked out of your hands when large force is being applied.....smaller steering wheel and it gets yanked out of your hands. Your hands being the brake pads. Larger rotor takes less force to stop it. We are not trying to make the rotor go quicker we are trying to stop it with quicker, control that quicker stop with less force. Dude you really got this backwards. Go back to school, and you only use the panic stop part and let the rest of what is said, go. His point in the end shows that there it take less force to stop a bigger rotor.





Related Content

Forums
Photo

2015 XR650L Squeaking noise by Crayjay


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Honda   XR600/650
  • 3 replies
Forums
Photo
Washington

Cle Elum Sunday 5/29: Looking for dual sport tips by TigerTanker


Dirt Bike   Dirt Bike Regional Discussion   Northwest
  • Hot  32 replies
Wiki
Want to add a kickstart to your XR650L?  Here's how - last post by clc3251

Want to add a kickstart to your XR650L? Here's how


Articles
  • 0 replies
Forums
Photo

XR650L super moto wheels by greggkklee


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Honda   XR600/650
  • Hot  28 replies
Forums
Photo

93 xr650l Restoration Project by Zigster


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Honda   XR600/650
  • 17 replies
 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.