Lighting Question...


22 replies to this topic
  • babyspankynhb

Posted August 08, 2006 - 05:22 PM

#1

Hey guys,

I'm looking into wiring my own D/S kit and I heard that the Head/Tail Lights are AC... True? The horn, flasher, and and turn signals need to be DC right? I've got a diagram from www.procycle.us/dual and it says to use DC on everything. I'm a bit confused... :thumbsup: Any tips? How would you be able to keep the lights on if the engine dies and the bulb is AC? Thanks!

  • babyspankynhb

Posted August 08, 2006 - 06:16 PM

#2

Oh yeah... is there a good place to find a multiswitch for the hi/low beam and signals? I looked and J&S Cycles and JC Whitney and its all ugly chopper stuff...

  • Gadsen

Posted August 08, 2006 - 07:10 PM

#3

Try http://www.peakmoto.com and you will find exactly what you are looking for. Here is a link to the switch I think you are after. http://peakmoto.com/...ml?PRID=1250457

  • tigerowner_ut

Posted August 09, 2006 - 10:48 AM

#4

Bulbs work either AC or DC. If you run DC you will need to do the stator mod (free) found on Baja Designs website in PDF format. You will also need a heavier duty rectifier/regulator. If your state is not too sticky on requirements I suggest leaving the Lights on AC but add a regulator to keep the bulbs from blowing. You can wire in a brake light and horn to the existing harness (Use a LED bulb for minimal power draw). Then wire any blinkers to the battery since they need a bit of wiring. Here are some more kits and parts.


http://www.wheelingc...egory&cat_id=72

  • babyspankynhb

Posted August 09, 2006 - 01:09 PM

#5

Thanks for the links! Here is what I am thinking for the wiring...
Signals and horn running off the battery(DC)
Headlight and Tail/Brake from the stator(AC)

The only problem with that is the head lights will shut off when the engine dies, but the signals and horn would still work. I would also need to put the head/tail and high/low lights on a seperate switch than the horn and signals. Right? I'm going nutts trying to figure this crap out and how to make it simple.

  • tigerowner_ut

Posted August 09, 2006 - 02:22 PM

#6

Thanks for the links! Here is what I am thinking for the wiring...
Signals and horn running off the battery(DC)
Headlight and Tail/Brake from the stator(AC)

The only problem with that is the head lights will shut off when the engine dies, but the signals and horn would still work. I would also need to put the head/tail and high/low lights on a seperate switch than the horn and signals. Right? I'm going nutts trying to figure this crap out and how to make it simple.



For the brake splice a wire into the power going to the taillight, run it to the hydraulic rear brake switch, run the other wire from the switch to the third wire on your tail light (the only one not connected to anything in the connector. Buy one all inclusive switch. The wires for the horn, lights... are all separate circuits so you do not need to buy separate items. The earlier link I provided has a fairly inexpensive harness you may want to consider. All the little parts add up.

  • tigerowner_ut

Posted August 09, 2006 - 02:24 PM

#7

Since you are in CA I would buy a kit. You will not save much doing it yourself and considering that all thi is new to you a kit would be a good primer for future electrical work.

  • babyspankynhb

Posted August 09, 2006 - 04:08 PM

#8

I just got a diagram and it doesn't look too hard. I've taken some basic classes on electronics and what not. I should be able to wire it all myself. My biggest hold up is the Stator and how to wire that along with the battery. If the Stator is wired to the battery and to the switch harness, won't it over-charge the battery? It would be the best way to run DC through everything, but I don't want to pop the battery after some time riding. That way the lights would also stay on after the engine is off... I think. I just need to make a trip down to radio shack and buy the stuff...

  • Asgeir

Posted August 09, 2006 - 11:50 PM

#9

If you are going AC use the H4 connector that was for the oem headlight bulb, there you have your AC when bike is running.

If you want to go DC the cheap way is to use the instructions on the PDF from BajaDesigns.

If you want GOOD DC go with a aftermarket stator and flywheel from TrailTech and you will have all the Watts you need.

It is no use to keep lights on after the bike stops running, these batteries do not last long for light use.

  • PBDBLUE

Posted August 10, 2006 - 05:27 AM

#10

What bike is this for? If it's a WR450 then you should be aware of one pitfall of going full DC and that is if the DC regulator blows the bike will not run. The 400/426's do not have this problem but it's something to think about. I'm not a big fan of rewiring the stator on 450's for that reason. My preference is to run everything but the headlight off the DC circuit and leave the headlight connected to the AC magneto. You mentioned running the tail/brake light off AC. I would recommend running those off of the DC circuit because you want those to stay bright even at idle. I posted a schematic of this setup in another thread if you're interested.
http://pg.photos.yah...scd.jpg&.src=ph

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • babyspankynhb

Posted August 10, 2006 - 07:45 AM

#11

The bikes are both 06 WR450s. I was thinking of just using a seperate rectifier than what is already on the bike to power all the lights on a DC system. I had considered using the rectifier already on the bike and didn't want to risk pulling too many amps and blowing it up. If I go that route, and hook the rectifier up to both the lights and the battery, will that possibly over-charge the battery since there is another rectifier already hooked up to the battery to charge it? Also, being hooked up to both rectifier and battery, wouldn't it still keep the lights bright while the bike is at an idle? Maybe I could put Diodes between the rectifier and battery so it won't back-feed into the battery and over-charge it?

  • PBDBLUE

Posted August 10, 2006 - 10:53 AM

#12

It's much simpler to just leave the headlight on AC. All the other lights (brake/tail/turn) are easily handled by the stock DC regulator which is capable of supplying about 25 - 30 watts safely. If you're concerned replace the brake/tail light bulb with a good LED bulb and that will drop the load to almost nothing (which is what I did). Since you are in CA there is no legal need for the headlight to run off of DC and it will run adequately off AC even at idle. Putting a rectifier on the lighting circuit opens up a whole new can of worms in terms of ground loops and potential overcharging of the battery. The stock DC regulator may or may not get along with this setup as well. I've logged several thousand miles using this setup with zero problems.

  • babyspankynhb

Posted August 10, 2006 - 01:49 PM

#13

I get what you mean about just using the stock rectifier for the lights. It would make alot less of a wiring nightmare. How would I get away with using one of the multi-switches if I use both an AC and DC circuit? Would the high/low switch have to be separate from the horn/tail/signals? Would the DC leads go from the battery or from the regulator to the lights? I want to be able to utilize the stock tail light if I can...

  • PBDBLUE

Posted August 10, 2006 - 02:16 PM

#14

I get what you mean about just using the stock rectifier for the lights. It would make alot less of a wiring nightmare. How would I get away with using one of the multi-switches if I use both an AC and DC circuit? Would the high/low switch have to be separate from the horn/tail/signals? Would the DC leads go from the battery or from the regulator to the lights? I want to be able to utilize the stock tail light if I can...


The relay is what isolates the AC from the multiswitch. Basically you use the DC hi beam output from the multiswitch to control a relay that switches the AC source to the proper filament. I used a standard 30A automotive SPDT relay. As for the rest of the lights you can use the battery post as the connection point but it would be wise to put a fuse (10 amp) right at the battery connection to protect in case of a short. You should have no problem using the stock tail light. The stock taillight uses 5 watts and the brake light uses ~ 20 watts but it's only on intermittently so that should not be a problem. Likewise with the turn signals. The diagram I posted shows how to wire everything. If you need a better (i.e. bigger easier to read) copy pm me with an email address and I'll send it to you.

  • babyspankynhb

Posted August 11, 2006 - 06:06 PM

#15

Well, I decided to go that route and run the headlight AC... I ordered all the parts besides the signals and blinkers. I'll go get those this weekend. I will keep you all informed on how it goes and what I am using! Wish me luck! :thumbsup:

  • OneToGo

Posted August 12, 2006 - 06:44 AM

#16

Hey guys,

I'm looking into wiring my own D/S kit and I heard that the Head/Tail Lights are AC... True? The horn, flasher, and and turn signals need to be DC right? I've got a diagram from www.procycle.us/dual and it says to use DC on everything. I'm a bit confused... :ride: Any tips? How would you be able to keep the lights on if the engine dies and the bulb is AC? Thanks!


True, all of above. Many DOTs REQUIRE continuous runnig of Head and Tail lights for motorcycles, hence AC when the motor is running - the benefit is it does not drain the battery. Some Transport departments also REQUIRE a continuously lit number plate and rear red light - these then would have to be DC, LEDS are great for this and what most manufacturers use and also what I would recommend.
So AC for head and tail+ brake + DC for the rest + continous tail and rear number illuminator - simple...until you have to wire it!
:thumbsup:

  • babyspankynhb

Posted August 13, 2006 - 05:05 PM

#17

Well guys... I've started the project. I got the relay for the hi/low beam and wired it. Turns out it actualy worked to (1st try!) and now I am waiting on the multiswitch, horn, and banjo bolt switch thingy I ordered from peakmoto.com. I went and got turn signals and a licence plate frame from Cycle Gear in Launga Hills today. Now we are farting around trying to find a spot to mount the lights and what-not... I can't wait to get our shipment this week!

  • MoBoy83

Posted August 14, 2006 - 01:44 PM

#18

Hey guys, this is some pretty cool stuff!

I'm brand new new to ThumperTalk and new to forums at that.

PBDBLUE: You really seem to know what you're talking about. I'm no wiring expert but i have high hopes to make a wr450f into a bad-ass street-legal supermoto machine. I wasn't able to view the diagram you had posted, so i was wondering if there was any way i could get (even if not from you) a diagram for wiring a brake/tail light, turn signal, and high/low beam headlight assemblies onto a stock 450f.

anything would be helpful! thanks.

~ Bryce (brycegott@gmail.com)

  • babyspankynhb

Posted August 14, 2006 - 02:24 PM

#19

I am going to try and make a drawing of how I wired the bike when I am done. I'll also include what I bought and how much it cost to do the conversion. This will be a chore with all the wiring involved, but I should be able to get it done pretty quickly. The part I am worried about is getting all the papers signed off to get it registered.

  • babyspankynhb

Posted August 15, 2006 - 05:00 PM

#20

I am using LED turn signals... What kind of flasher should I use? I don't want to have to order it online and wait for shipping. Are there any standard flashers that will work? What will happen if I use a standard flasher?

Oh yeah... I got my Class M permit today! I'm so excited! :thumbsup:




 
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